Modifying My Salt1 To A Point Tip

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MANIXWORLD
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Modifying My Salt1 To A Point Tip

#1

Post by MANIXWORLD »

When i bought my Salt1 plain,i realy liked the ergos,weight etc. about the knife,because it resembles the Delica 3 alot.
One thing, i wasn't keen on,was that the Salt1 didnt hav a sharp,spearpoint,when i bought it.
I modified the point of my Salt1 slightly to a sharp point and it looks cool and i like the fact that its got actual piercingpower now.
i used the coarse side of my diamondstone to hone the blade to a sharp point and then the finer side of the diamondstone to smoothen the blade out.
I'm very satisfied with the results,sofar.
The H1 steel wasn't that difficult to regrind to a point,even on a diamondstone by hand.
I reckon if i had to try this on ZDP bladesteel,i'would leave scars on the diamondstone and just scratch the ZDP bladesteel.
I do think that H1 bladesteel could find a admirable place next to VG10 in kitchencutlery with regards to cutting wetfoods and moist conditions in the kitchen ,staying more corrosion free than VG10 and other kitchencutlery bladesteels, but with less edgeholding ability.
MW.
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The Deacon
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#2

Post by The Deacon »

Definitely would have been a lot more work to do that on a ZDP Delica.

As for H-1 edge retention. Most things in life involve trade offs. Faster cars generally burn more gas, or hold less luggage, or both. With H-1 the trade offs for total immunity to rust are edge retention, scratch resistance, and the inability to be full flat ground. For some those will all be acceptable, for others one or more of them won't.

One suggestion for sharpening PE H-1. I have found that it stays sharper longer if I use only a medium stone on it that if I use a fine stone afterward. Not knowledgeable enough about steels to say whether that's an objective or subjective observation, but it might be worth a try.
Paul
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MANIXWORLD
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#3

Post by MANIXWORLD »

The Deacon wrote:Definitely would have been a lot more work to do that on a ZDP Delica.

As for H-1 edge retention. Most things in life involve trade offs. Faster cars generally burn more gas, or hold less luggage, or both. With H-1 the trade offs for total immunity to rust are edge retention, scratch resistance, and the inability to be full flat ground. For some those will all be acceptable, for others one or more of them won't.

One suggestion for sharpening PE H-1. I have found that it stays sharper longer if I use only a medium stone on it that if I use a fine stone afterward. Not knowledgeable enough about steels to say whether that's an objective or subjective observation, but it might be worth a try.
Thats another interesting thought you brought forward DEACON.
I didn't know that H1 is inable to be full flatground.
What is the reason for this?
thanks for your experienced and very valuable info you always give DEACON.
MW.
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cheez
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#4

Post by cheez »

Isnt H1 work-hardened? Wouldnt that mean that one could simply take it to a belt grinder?

I'm curious about the inability to be full flat ground as well.

Keno
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sal
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#5

Post by sal »

Hi Cheez,

As Paul mentioned, we only grind H1 hollow where both bevels are ground at the same time.

That "trade-off" that Paul mentioned is a "BIG WISDOM" and is true in most of life.

BTW, serrated H1 will stay sharp as long a S30V. It is only the plain edge that has less edge retention. (about like AUS-8).

sal
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cobrajoe
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#6

Post by cobrajoe »

MANIXWORLD wrote:Thats another interesting thought you brought forward DEACON.
I didn't know that H1 is inable to be full flatground.
What is the reason for this?
thanks for your experienced and very valuable info you always give DEACON.
MW.
I'm sure Sal could correct me, but I don't think that H1 is Unable to be flat ground, but the process that spyderco uses to flat grind is not the best way to work H1. I heard that for a flat ground blade, one side of the blade is ground down, then flipped over and then the other side is ground, where hollow grinds can have both sides ground at the same time.

Since H1 is a work hardened steel and not heat treated, grinding one side before the other could cause undesired effects (differing hardness from side to side, bent/warped blades, etc).

My Salt 1, I made it a mock flat grind just by putting the bevel flat to the stone for a while and then flipping it over. Now I have a nice little kitchen folder :D
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Kaizen
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#7

Post by Kaizen »

Here's my PS modified with a stabby point:

Image

The edge retention on it is fine. We're all spoiled knife nuts with superman steels.
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gull wing
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#8

Post by gull wing »

MANIXWORLD,
Lets see pictures!
I pointed my Salt1, but gid not flat grind.
Image
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MANIXWORLD
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#9

Post by MANIXWORLD »

gull wing wrote:MANIXWORLD,
Lets see pictures!
I pointed my Salt1, but gid not flat grind.
Image
I have posted pics of my other Spydies on photobucket and i will of my modified SALT1 aswell.
My modified SALT has the point tip,but with a slight reverse tanto grind on top of the blade.
It actualy looks real cool.
MW.
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