Has anyone tried.........

[gordonk]

I love my SS Police, but I don't like how slippery it is. What I'm thinking of trying, is to cut a small piece of cocobolo or equivalent on the shiny side and glue it on with epoxy, but I don't want to rough up the surface, in case it doesn't work so I can get it the glue off with acetone :) Has anyone tried this with any sort of sucess? I have to look thru my kit supplies, but I think I have a few pieces thin enough to experiment with, but I thought I would ask first :)

Many thx in advance - gord

[Padawan]

STR can probably offer some input, but I wouldn't expect the bond to be exceptionally strong. It should hold, but if any sort of extreme force is applied to it, it may let go. What you could do is cut the pieces and epoxy them, and if you're happy with the results, you could then drill and tap some holes so that screws could be used for further reinforcement.

[gordonk]

Pretty well what I was thinking. Cocobolo is a bit oily and that was my primary concern - how well it would bond. I've used it before, but I had both the steel and wood roughed up and it was fine. I was more concerned that if I didn't like it, it would relatively easy to get off and wouldn't hurt the SS :D The other thought I had, was to rough up the SS just enough that the expoxy would still get a good bond and still not look that bad if it came off - say about 600 grit. Normally, when I've done handles in the past, it's been 100 grit or less. I'm planning to use Devcon/30 min/2 Ton expoxy, which is what I normally use, and not really planning to use the Police so hard that handle torque/flex would affect the bond IF I can get it bond well. Now it also just occurred to me, that I'm also planning to get the cocobolo quite thin and not impact the thickness all much, so mild flexing may not affect it either, but again, this is only thinking out loud. I wait and see if STR or anyone else has some input. This was just a thought at this point - tougher issue will be - WHEN I can get to it :)


Thx again - gord

[Bodieism]

This adds a very secure grip if you like the way it looks:

http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21162

http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22782

[cobrajoe]

There is one more idea I've heard of, although it would be rougher on pockets, and not quite as pretty.

Put some skateboard tape on the clipless side of the handle, and if you want, you could probably put some more on the clip itself. That would add a lot of grip.

[gordonk]

Interesting options - I may end up filing in the jimping - hadn't thought about that (age...I actually read both of those posts before :) - many thx for that. I have files....... I was thinking of the skateboard tape as well, but I'm not sure if the edges would start lifting after some use. Guess I should start playing and see what I come up with :D I'm still liking the idea of wood and will probably pursue that first. Haven't done any "tinkering" per se for a long time.

- gord

[Nilaman]

If I remember right, I've seen several people put grip tape on both sides of the handle on SS knives. Just cut around the area where the clip is, so that it doesn't make the clip a pain in the butt to get out of your pocket.

[spydercojoe]

Hi all. Just saw this thread and I just have to respond.. Sorry no pictures but I have been experimenting with my police SS. I sand blasted it with some medium cinder/ash like stuff (sorry for a lack of accuracy) but anyway it really works. My police is as grippy or more so than any of the G-10 spydies that I have.
I have been looking for the tool that you can use in a drill press to put some damaskeen (sp) swirls on it like they do on some gun finishes for a little decor but anyway it didnt take all that long to do and it really looks great.
It has more grip then say bead blasting as are done on the Chris Reeve Sebenza. I will have to do more research but I think that I am on to something.
Take care , Joe

[denn]

yup, sand-blasting might work

if you really want wood though, go for it.

i once re-handled an Al Mar SERE 2000 from G10 to Cherry Wood, and it held up fine (major job, but i sold it for quite some $$$'s......)

work real careful, start by making rough templates, then roughly the amount of wood needed per side (don't cut off too much in the beginning, start big, finish to small/fitting later). rough up up the SS-handles and the wood with 400 grit. keep the scales thin so as not to end up with a 'fat' police

use epoxy or superglue.

(and don't forget to pay special attention to the clip- and lockbutton-area

enjoy the tinkering,

denn

[JD Spydo]

I would try using desert IRONWOOD rather than Cocobolo. Desert Ironwood with a good angular pattern filed on it would in my opinion make a super knife scale.

Also it takes linseed oil treatments well too. Also I just discovered on a woodworking job a year ago that RAW LINSEED oil seems like it works better than BOILED LINSEED oil.

But do keep us posted and let us know how it turns out.

[AUXCOM]

I have been looking for the tool that you can use in a drill press to put some damaskeen (sp) swirls on it like they do on some gun finishes

:spyder: joe - Please don't take this as 100% certain, but I believe i read somewhere (Home Shop Machinist Mag?) That some gunsmiths simply use a wooden dowel mounted in a drillpress with some type of polishing or rubbing compound to achieve the damaskeen finish. Anyone else familiar with this technique?

Regards,

[Andre V]

:spyder: joe - Please don't take this as 100% certain, but I believe i read somewhere (Home Shop Machinist Mag?) That some gunsmiths simply use a wooden dowel mounted in a drillpress with some type of polishing or rubbing compound to achieve the damaskeen finish. Anyone else familiar with this technique?

Regards,

Yes that is one technique to use. The other option is to use a cratex rod.

Another easy option which gives quite a nice effect is to use a brass or steel brush in the drill press.

http://members15.clubphoto.com/thomas63 ... uest.phtml

Here is a nice link to a knifemakers site showing how he does it.

[cobrajoe]

Yes that is one technique to use. The other option is to use a cratex rod.

Another easy option which gives quite a nice effect is to use a brass or steel brush in the drill press.

http://members15.clubphoto.com/thomas63 ... uest.phtml

Here is a nice link to a knifemakers site showing how he does it.

If you do use a brush, use some electrical tape or similar to wrap the sides of the brush, if you don't you'll get some random circular scratches from bristles that go astray.

[Andre V]

If you do use a brush, use some electrical tape or similar to wrap the sides of the brush, if you don't you'll get some random circular scratches from bristles that go astray.

i just cut the brushes short.

[gordonk]

I would try using desert IRONWOOD rather than Cocobolo. Desert Ironwood with a good angular pattern filed on it would in my opinion make a super knife scale.

Also it takes linseed oil treatments well too. Also I just discovered on a woodworking job a year ago that RAW LINSEED oil seems like it works better than BOILED LINSEED oil.

But do keep us posted and let us know how it turns out.

I would LOVE to try this experiment with desert ironwood but it's a bit expensive to get up here, sort of.... :) I was planning to get a Vic Spirit instead of additional stuff like this :) Last time I ordered some kydex from knifekits, I ended up with a DDR3 and two Delta 5's :D Too many toys, not enough time........ I am initially going to do just the smooth side first seeing as the piece I have left is just big enough for the one side. It was a leftover from an earlier kit knife sale. The piece I have is about 3/32" thick and it will be about half that thickness by the time I'm done. If it works out and looks OK, I'll see if it holds up and then I may do both sides, but with something with more pattern. After thinking about this more last nite, it dawned on me, that if this works out, I'll remove the clip and do the other side. When I carry my Police, it's usually just loose in my back pocket or my sweater or hoodie pocket anyway.

I haven't used linseed oil on my handles, so that's a good thought - especially for desert ironwood. I typically use tung oil. It was recommended to me by one of the people at Lee Valley when I was buying purpleheart and redheart, it keeps that deep purple color. One thing I have found with tung oil, is that I can a gorgeous satin finish on a wood handle and it's a pretty tough finish to boot. On the other side of it, tung oil probably requires more initial work than linseed oil would. I have to make a small oak box for my wife this weekend, so I'll try it out.

I'll definitely post a pic when I'm done :)

Thx for the input - lots of great ideas.

- gord

[spydercojoe]

Hey thanks for the additional info on putting the"swirls" on etc. The link you sent was great.
I went out to my mentors shop and with some "luck" found what he called the damaskeen tool , then in the light rain I took my new stainless delica 4 and sand blasted the scales like I mentioned earlier. The handles are as tacky as you would ever want so now I will add just a touch of decor.
Thanks again for the info,,,, Joe