Problem with my new Salt I
Problem with my new Salt I
My new Salt I arrived today in the condition shown in the picture below. The blade and lock don't even come close to lining up and the knife has a ton of side to side blade play. If I squeeze on the handle near the pivot on both sides the knife gets tighter but when I move the blade side to side it loosens again. Has anyone else ever had this problem? I guess there's something wrong with the pivot and it won't stay tight under any pressure.
Also how can I tell if my Salt has a titanium clip? Isn't titanium non-magnetic? Magnets will stick to my Salt's clip but I thought they've been coming with titanium clips for a few months now.
Also how can I tell if my Salt has a titanium clip? Isn't titanium non-magnetic? Magnets will stick to my Salt's clip but I thought they've been coming with titanium clips for a few months now.
- Attachments
-
- Picture.jpg (23.2 KiB) Viewed 1299 times
Yes I've seen it before.
You can easily fix the side to side or lateral blade play. Go down to Wal-Mart or to your shaving cabinet and grab a couple of those thin Gillette razor blades. You know the old fashioned kind. Not the Stanley utility blades but a nice thin razor is about the size you want. Used ones work for this but if not available you can use a couple new ones.
Stick one on each side of the blade down in far enough to where it touches the pivot with the blade open. Wedge them in there so they are in position. Then set the knife so that the bottom side of the pivot pin sits squarely on a shop anvil or a splitting maul or over sized hammer and tap the pivot pin with a ball peen hammer on the top end. Get it tighter and pull the blades out and see if it isn't a lot better.
Or you could just send it back for Spyderco to evaluate it.
Hope that helps some.
You can easily fix the side to side or lateral blade play. Go down to Wal-Mart or to your shaving cabinet and grab a couple of those thin Gillette razor blades. You know the old fashioned kind. Not the Stanley utility blades but a nice thin razor is about the size you want. Used ones work for this but if not available you can use a couple new ones.
Stick one on each side of the blade down in far enough to where it touches the pivot with the blade open. Wedge them in there so they are in position. Then set the knife so that the bottom side of the pivot pin sits squarely on a shop anvil or a splitting maul or over sized hammer and tap the pivot pin with a ball peen hammer on the top end. Get it tighter and pull the blades out and see if it isn't a lot better.
Or you could just send it back for Spyderco to evaluate it.
Hope that helps some.
It is not necessary to do extraordinary things in life but only to do ordinary things extraordinarily well.
STR's Blog
STR's Blog
looks like someone might have been fooling around with your salt I before it became yours. it's a shame -- my salt I has been my number 1 EDC since i got it!
when my FRN spydies start to get a little loose... i take the knife in question, wrap a towel around it, set it on a flat surface, and then WHAM WHAM WHAM with a hammer over the pivot. usually does the trick every time.
if that doesn't solve your dilemma, i'm sure sal and co. will fix or replace it for you promptly. worry not!
when my FRN spydies start to get a little loose... i take the knife in question, wrap a towel around it, set it on a flat surface, and then WHAM WHAM WHAM with a hammer over the pivot. usually does the trick every time.
if that doesn't solve your dilemma, i'm sure sal and co. will fix or replace it for you promptly. worry not!
[quote="David Lowry"]When you say "new" Salt I, did you buy it from a dealer or from eBay or what?
While I somewhat agree with clovisc, a new knife should never have to have the pivot beaten on to make it right. ]
i agree... maybe someone dropped it, or was playing around with it... who knows where it went askew. a couple good, solid taps (under the protection of a towel) should hopefully fix it up as good as new. and if that doesn't do the trick, you'll quickly learn why spyderco's customer service is some of the finest out there. :)
While I somewhat agree with clovisc, a new knife should never have to have the pivot beaten on to make it right. ]
i agree... maybe someone dropped it, or was playing around with it... who knows where it went askew. a couple good, solid taps (under the protection of a towel) should hopefully fix it up as good as new. and if that doesn't do the trick, you'll quickly learn why spyderco's customer service is some of the finest out there. :)
i should add... that's one of the things i really LIKE about my FRN spydies with "non-adjustable" pivots. they're easier to tighten up when they get loose with use... especially in the field. don't need a little screwdriver or hex key or peculiar adjustment tool... just a nice rock. :D
my first impression of FRN was "ehhhh... plastic." now, spyderco FRN is my favorite handle material for a hard use work knife. it's definitely NOT like any other "plastic" out there... it can take one heck of a beating!
my first impression of FRN was "ehhhh... plastic." now, spyderco FRN is my favorite handle material for a hard use work knife. it's definitely NOT like any other "plastic" out there... it can take one heck of a beating!
- The Deacon
- Member
- Posts: 25717
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: Upstate SC, USA
- Contact:
Own or have owned close to fifty FRN Spydies, never had one yet with significant blade play, so can't help you there. Have a couple where the lockbar stands a bit proud with the knife open, but the lockup is rock solid, so don't consider it an issue.
Regarding the clip, if yours is magnetic, it's probably not titanium. They changed materials several months back on new production, but did not send dealers new clips to retrofit to existing stock. Out of curiosity, there is a two letter code on the label, what does it read on your box?
Regarding the clip, if yours is magnetic, it's probably not titanium. They changed materials several months back on new production, but did not send dealers new clips to retrofit to existing stock. Out of curiosity, there is a two letter code on the label, what does it read on your box?
Paul
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
your lucky. almost every one except my Military has had blade play.The Deacon wrote:Own or have owned close to fifty FRN Spydies, never had one yet with significant blade play, so can't help you there. Have a couple where the lockbar stands a bit proud with the knife open, but the lockup is rock solid, so don't consider it an issue.
Regarding the clip, if yours is magnetic, it's probably not titanium. They changed materials several months back on new production, but did not send dealers new clips to retrofit to existing stock. Out of curiosity, there is a two letter code on the label, what does it read on your box?
- Stormdrane
- Member
- Posts: 425
- Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2005 2:20 pm
- Location: Georgia, USA
- Contact:
- severedthumbs
- Member
- Posts: 1545
- Joined: Tue Sep 28, 2004 6:28 pm
- Location: USA Earth
That is unacceptable, if this knife was not abused (used as a crowbar, etc) and arrived to you NIB, or lightly used send it to the :spyder: Warranty and Repair Dep.
I would like to point out to you that "a knife can save your life", so someday that Salt could mean the difference.
It looks like a serious defect to me.
Send it in, if it is a warranty issue :spyder: WILL replace it.
But if the knife became this way by using it as a screwdriver/ crowbar the only option is trying to fix it yourself.
greetz
I would like to point out to you that "a knife can save your life", so someday that Salt could mean the difference.
It looks like a serious defect to me.
Send it in, if it is a warranty issue :spyder: WILL replace it.
But if the knife became this way by using it as a screwdriver/ crowbar the only option is trying to fix it yourself.
greetz
Hello Russell92, sorry to hear about that. I have 2 Salt 1 models The yellow SE version is tight with no blade play at all. The black SE version has the most blade play in any Spyderco I have. Like yours, if I squeeze the handles there is very little play. Mine has gone in for repair or replacement. As mentioned before, you can hit the pivot and that might tighten it. You should not have to do that to your new knife. Send it in and I'm sure it will be taken care of.
Fall seven times, stand up eight (Japanese Proverb)
Russell92,
this is not ok. I have seen it on a pair of Enduras in our local shop. Whether you can send it back for a W&R check, or you can try to fix it yourself by *light* hammering the main pivot. I guess this could help, but be carefull and knock very easily, not to overtighten the pivot, then you would have a hard opening time.
IIRC, the titanium is NOT MAGNETIC. As far as my titanium cutter and spikes considered are. I would say if it is magnetic, it could be some coated metal (the coating can be special of course...)
Good luck by your Salt I.
Jano
this is not ok. I have seen it on a pair of Enduras in our local shop. Whether you can send it back for a W&R check, or you can try to fix it yourself by *light* hammering the main pivot. I guess this could help, but be carefull and knock very easily, not to overtighten the pivot, then you would have a hard opening time.
IIRC, the titanium is NOT MAGNETIC. As far as my titanium cutter and spikes considered are. I would say if it is magnetic, it could be some coated metal (the coating can be special of course...)
Good luck by your Salt I.
Jano
"Having a dull knife is like having a stupid friend."
- Jimmy_Dean
- Member
- Posts: 1102
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: Montreal Canada
Thanks for the help everyone. I emailed New Graham (where I bought the knife) and they said I could send it back and they'd give me a new one (I'm always very pleased with New Graham's excellent service). Since I'm not crazy about taking a hammer to a brand new knife I think I'll take them up on the offer. :D None of my other FRN Spydies have too much blade play but I'll probably have to use that hammering trick at some point down the road after a lot more hard use.
The Deacon, the 2 letter code on the box is "LD". Does that stand for the month and year it was made? If so when was this Salt produced?
Before I noticed this problem I really liked my new Salt. The SE edge is deep and extremely sharp and I like the larger spyderhole and spine serrations. It opened so nice and smoothly right out of the box...and that’s when I saw the loose pivot which explained that. :) I would prefer it to be more pointy but understand why it's not and can live with its blade shape. I look forward to getting the new, properly working Salt so I can test out the H1 steel.
The Deacon, the 2 letter code on the box is "LD". Does that stand for the month and year it was made? If so when was this Salt produced?
Before I noticed this problem I really liked my new Salt. The SE edge is deep and extremely sharp and I like the larger spyderhole and spine serrations. It opened so nice and smoothly right out of the box...and that’s when I saw the loose pivot which explained that. :) I would prefer it to be more pointy but understand why it's not and can live with its blade shape. I look forward to getting the new, properly working Salt so I can test out the H1 steel.
-
- Member
- Posts: 6278
- Joined: Sun May 22, 2005 2:57 am
- Location: Assen (Drenthe) the Netherlands
This is the condition I received 5 of my FRN knives in. This is what I mean by wishing that Spyderco would try to do something about the finish of the FRN handles. I tried to correct it myself and I succeeded in 2 of them. The other 3 are even worse than they were in the first place( I hammered the pivot too much so now there is daylight on both sides of the lockbar, bladeplay is gone though[so is the one hand opening])