Hello everyone,
I bought the sharpmaker and watched Sal sharpen knives on the video. The impression I got from the demonstration was that just about any knife could be sharpened from dull to razor sharp in 20 strokes x 4 steps. I've found that for a fairly sharp knife that is the case. However, for a duller knife I may have to linger on one stage for many more strokes than 20.
I've tried a 30 degree back bevel and then a 40 degree edge but it still takes many strokes.
I do the tests for each stage. I test that the edge is set using my fingernail. I try to cut paper after the second. And I try to shave my arm after the 3rd. I have a hard time getting the edge to shave my arm for knives that start out duller.
Is it your understanding that once the edge is set (step 1), all other steps should require 20 strokes?
If I am using a lot more strokes than this is it because I'm not holding the blade exactly perpendicular to the stone? Any other suggestions?
I should mention that it's kitchen knives I've had trouble with.
Thanks
4 steps-sharpmaker
Yes, once you have the edge set, it requires about 20 strokes on each of the other steps. If you have shaped the edge with a very rough grit, it can take a few more strokes and on the final step, you can improve the edge further by using more and progressively lighter strokes.
It is a common recommendation to go to a coarse benchstone on really dull knifes for initial edge forming. Just 2 days ago I sent of a sharpening kit to my father consisting of a x-coarse DMT diamond stone and the sharpmaker + a little handmade wedge at 15 deg. that alows him to judge the angle on the benchstone.
The sharpmaker doesn't remove material overly fast, partly because even the grays are pretty fine grit. However, personally I believe it is also due to the fact that the sharpmaker doesn't let itself to put a lot of weight onto the blade (which is partly the reason why the sharpmaker works so well). I have tried to put the grays into the bottom of the base and to use it the sharpmaker as "benchstone" (you need to find a way to keep the sharpmaker to slide all over the place) and in that mode you can put a bit more weight on the blade and remove a bit more material in a shorter time span. But the grays still remain pretty fine. You still don't get the stock removal of a coarse benchstone. Alternatively you can get the diamond rods for the sharpmaker, personally I just find a benchstone a bit more versatile.
It is a common recommendation to go to a coarse benchstone on really dull knifes for initial edge forming. Just 2 days ago I sent of a sharpening kit to my father consisting of a x-coarse DMT diamond stone and the sharpmaker + a little handmade wedge at 15 deg. that alows him to judge the angle on the benchstone.
The sharpmaker doesn't remove material overly fast, partly because even the grays are pretty fine grit. However, personally I believe it is also due to the fact that the sharpmaker doesn't let itself to put a lot of weight onto the blade (which is partly the reason why the sharpmaker works so well). I have tried to put the grays into the bottom of the base and to use it the sharpmaker as "benchstone" (you need to find a way to keep the sharpmaker to slide all over the place) and in that mode you can put a bit more weight on the blade and remove a bit more material in a shorter time span. But the grays still remain pretty fine. You still don't get the stock removal of a coarse benchstone. Alternatively you can get the diamond rods for the sharpmaker, personally I just find a benchstone a bit more versatile.
First of all, don't try to go fast, you will apply an unequal pressure on the two sides of the blades and you will also make it easier to have an accident.
Also it's better to do 10 slow and PRECISE strokes than to do 30 fast strokes like someone else said (sorry don't remember who)
You should also consider the diamond triangles.
Personally I bought 2 coarse (325grit) diamond plate.
I, then put my diamond plate against my triangles as a "guide". Doing this I have to go slowly but after ~10 strokes the knife get the good shape and then I go with 12-15 strokes on each of the 4 steps.
Also remember that blade shaping and sharpening is an art. It come with the time; it's not olympic games where the fasest is the best, but it's also like olympic games, it come with practice :)
Trick: take your mom's or wife kitchen knives and sharpen them. It's a good way to get the feel of the sharpmaker. It's easier with a 4-6in blade and you also have a bigger handle so it's easier to hold.
wish it helps :D
Also it's better to do 10 slow and PRECISE strokes than to do 30 fast strokes like someone else said (sorry don't remember who)
You should also consider the diamond triangles.
Personally I bought 2 coarse (325grit) diamond plate.
I, then put my diamond plate against my triangles as a "guide". Doing this I have to go slowly but after ~10 strokes the knife get the good shape and then I go with 12-15 strokes on each of the 4 steps.
Also remember that blade shaping and sharpening is an art. It come with the time; it's not olympic games where the fasest is the best, but it's also like olympic games, it come with practice :)
Trick: take your mom's or wife kitchen knives and sharpen them. It's a good way to get the feel of the sharpmaker. It's easier with a 4-6in blade and you also have a bigger handle so it's easier to hold.
wish it helps :D
.:: TheNick ::.
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Troll
That would be me, lol
http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.p ... ht=strokes
Just go slow,and keep at moderation.
also i enjoy feeling the edge. If you notice you have a Burr on one side, do a few more strokes on that side and then just a few on the opposite side.
I ahve gotten some of my knives so sharp, justwith the Brown or grey stones. Sometimes I dont even need the whites. So do most of the work on the grey stones.
also 1 more tip. If you dont have diamond stones and really want to take a good amount off. I use the side of the triangle with the Slot in it. I think it workds especially well for finishing the blade on the grey stones.
http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.p ... ht=strokes
Just go slow,and keep at moderation.
also i enjoy feeling the edge. If you notice you have a Burr on one side, do a few more strokes on that side and then just a few on the opposite side.
I ahve gotten some of my knives so sharp, justwith the Brown or grey stones. Sometimes I dont even need the whites. So do most of the work on the grey stones.
also 1 more tip. If you dont have diamond stones and really want to take a good amount off. I use the side of the triangle with the Slot in it. I think it workds especially well for finishing the blade on the grey stones.
Thanks for the replies. I got the kitchen knife I was working on so that it will shave hair but it still isn't as sharp as another knife I worked on. this is a dumb question but will some knives get sharper than others? I know there is a difference in the ability to hold an edge. The one I finally got sharp is a no name (literally no name on the blade) kitchen knife. The other that I touched up is a Henkel ice hardened blade (whatever that is) that I bought recently. The Henkel is much sharper.
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Troll
May people say no, But i say yes. i can Never get any kitchen knife as sharp as my Calypso jr, and no where neer as sharp as the benchmade 705.
I wouldent expect them to. Thogh with alot of work you may be able to get it.
me and my brothers new project is getting my gradfather old hatchet that hasent been sharpened in 60 years to be sharp enogh to shave with. Lol. we have use Benhcstone grinders, beltsanders and now at the stand where we use the grey spyderco stones.
I wouldent expect them to. Thogh with alot of work you may be able to get it.
me and my brothers new project is getting my gradfather old hatchet that hasent been sharpened in 60 years to be sharp enogh to shave with. Lol. we have use Benhcstone grinders, beltsanders and now at the stand where we use the grey spyderco stones.