What lubes do you use? & why?

[Mr_Moe]

Has anyone heard of or tried Froglube? US made food grade lubricant. Impossible to get in Germany though.

[Lord vader]

I have heard of it, but I cant find it locally.How good does it work?

[The Mastiff]

Various dry ptfe, teflon, and even dry Moly lubes. I like the dry ones as they won't hold dirt particles so as the knives do slowly wear, they smooth up and don't scratch, burr or anything else. When I first get a knife or firearm I always clean it, de lube it ( solvents in brake cleaners get all the oil and grit/dirt), then treat it with Tuff glide. I let it cure for 24 hours.

Then I use the above lubes as necessary.Some take additional curing depending on the product.

For rust I wax stored knives and keep them in a sleeve out of the holster usually in their box. For user knives I mostly use A.G. Russell's clear liquid silicone product called "rust free". It dries after application leaving no visual trace, and no greasy feeling. I went to this after I developed an intolerance to solvents in light oils and it has helped. It works better too, not doing the fingerprint thing an oily knife does, then a mandatory hand wash in a detergent soap to get the oils off the hand.

I'm keeping it as simple and non greasy as possible after decades of gun & knife collecting, armory & arsenal work, police, C.O., and security work after my army time. I learned there had to be a better way of doing things after being in the army and spending 6-8 hours on the M16A1 ( dates me eh?), 1911A1, M203, M60 etc.

Now? We have the technology!

Work smart!

Joe

[The Deacon]

Mineral oil on any knife that might get used to cut food, which means any knife I carry, because it's odorless, tasteless, safe to consume, and will not harm natural materials. Tuff Glide, more for rust prevention than lubrication, on my "safe queens" which do not have natural material scales. Ren Wax, for rust prevention, on my "safe queens" that have natural material scales.

[Mr_Moe]

I have heard of it, but I cant find it locally.How good does it work?

Wish I had an answer to how good it works. So far I've stuck to Ballistol, as that's easy to get in it's country of origin. I'll see if I can order some Froglube from the states.

[PocketZen]

As I mentioned, I use primarily Tuf-glide and Militec for protection and lubrication. But a friend of mine (who is an avid bicycler) told me he uses Finish Line Ceramic Wax Dry lube

http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/c ... x_lube.htm

I've tried it on a couple of my knives, and it is interesting stuff. It dries to a micro-thin solid waxy film and seems to last a lot longer than the thinner oil-based lubes - and it provides a silky smooth feeling. Not completely sold on it yet, but it is pretty good - and should be available at your local bike shop.

TedP

I tried Finish Line Ceramic Wax Dry lube and personally wasn't sold either. It was smooth, but can't say noticeably smother than Tuff-Glide. It seems to go on thicker than I like and provide very little rust protection. I have been a long-time sentry solutions user but have been open to trying other products.

Wish I had an answer to how good it works. So far I've stuck to Ballistol, as that's easy to get in it's country of origin. I'll see if I can order some Froglube from the states.

Now someone mentioned FrogLube here on the forums. Just really like dry lubes and how they adhere to surfaces without attracting sand, lint, etc. Again have been a long-time sentry solutions user but really want something food safe. I picked some FrogLube up at the shot show and tried it out on an old shotgun, machete, and a can opener. Really like the stuff so far. So I emailed the company to confirm that it was food safe. They replied, "Completely". Bought some and Flitz rifle, gun & knife wax from BotachTatical.com. I am going to try the FrogLube on either my M4 Millie or Manix2. Next I am going to email Flitz to see if the claim the wax to be food safe. Then try both out accordingly.

[Tdog]

For preventing rust, I've been using a product called CorrosionX for a long time. Militec lube and grease is also good stuff. For the last few years I have been using Wilson's performance lube for the pivot points. The pinpoint applicator allows you to put it where it needs to be and it came highly recommended by a local law enforcement armorer. Recently when i ran out of this, based on other folks recommendations here, tried some Sentry Tuf-Glide. I like the fact that it dries, which doesn't collect dust or dirt, but I still wonder if it has the lubricating qualities after it dries? Guess this will be the go-to until it's used up.

[dano]

All sorts of interesting lubes can be found at a bicycle shop. I used to be a big Tri-Flow user on my knives...But...and don't think this is blasphemy...but I really like Benchmade's Blue-Lube.

--dan

[Mr_Moe]

...Now someone mentioned FrogLube here on the forums. Just really like dry lubes and how they adhere to surfaces without attracting sand, lint, etc. Again have been a long-time sentry solutions user but really want something food safe. I picked some FrogLube up at the shot show and tried it out on an old shotgun, machete, and a can opener. Really like the stuff so far. So I emailed the company to confirm that it was food safe. They replied, "Completely". Bought some and Flitz rifle, gun & knife wax from BotachTatical.com. I am going to try the FrogLube on either my M4 Millie or Manix2. Next I am going to email Flitz to see if the claim the wax to be food safe. Then try both out accordingly.

Thanks for sharing. Would be great if you could share your further thoughts once you've tried it some more.

[PocketZen]

[ATTACH]19545[/ATTACH]
Will do. PM me if I don't!

[mikeh99]

Benchmade BlueLube works and is food safe (citrus based).

[jackknifeh]

Here is what Sentry Solutions says about their Tuf-Glide as far as using knifes treated with it for food prep.

None of Sentry Solutions products are FDA (Food and Drug Administration) approved. TUF-CLOTH's protection bonds to metal surfaces. This bonding reduces the possibility of transferring material to food items that might be cut. If you plan to cut food with a TUF-CLOTH treated blade, we suggest that you wash the blade first.

I don't treat our kitchen knives with Tuf-Cloth because we have never had a problem with them corroding at all. Actually, we don't use anything. Just wash and let dry. If we did have a problem with it I would use a Tuf-Cloth on them. I may use another food safe product but I would feel safe using a Tuf-Cloth because I use it on my folders and use them occasionally for cutting food. Anyway, some have mentioned that a Tuf-Cloth or Tuf-Glide isn't food safe that may not be true. Of course you wouldn't want to drink it. :D After I apply it and wipe off any left over after it has dried you can't even tell you did anything to the knife. Even though I'd use it I also wouldn't argue with the better safe than sorry argument. :)

Jack

[RLR]

No lube most of the time. If needed some lithium grease or a drop of 3 in 1 on slipjoints.

[rycen]

I just today received some viper lube. It was tough to find at a reasonable price.

[spinynorman]

I use WD-40 mostly due to lack of knowledge about other lubrication products. It's cheap and seems to work well for cleaning out dirt from my Caly3.5.

Hi - The problem with WD-40 is that it leaves a film that will gum up, and eventually turn to a brown scummy varnish. You'll see it on plenty of old gun barrels. Somewhere I heard or read that it was not originally a lubricant at all, but was an automotive product made to be a water-displaying dryer for ignition parts like distributors; hence the name "WD". The film it leaves might help prevent corrosion, but if left on a gun or a knife it can cause a real mess over time.

[PocketZen]

Thanks for sharing. Would be great if you could share your further thoughts once you've tried it some more.

The attachment Tan M4 Manix2.jpg is no longer available

Today I took my M4 Tan M2 and cleaned the pivot twice with Isopropyl Alcohol. After it dried I squirted in some Frog Lube. Worked it in quite a bit then coated the blade. Then used a space heater to heat the knife so that the Frog Lube 'bonds' to the metals. After I cleaned off the excess.
In comparison it seems more messy than using Tuff-Glide but a dry lube that is that is "completely" food safe is what I am after. The product it's self is thicker than your average oil so applying it into small areas seems to either require more lube to distribute or more patience. Then heating and cleaning off excess after. I used the former today which seemed to equal more mess.
Opening and closing the M2 is great. Equal to that that I have achieved with Tuff-Glide. So for initial impression on a folder are good. Next will be my M4 Millie. I will be interested how it works with the RIL. I will likely lube it up before I sharpen it with my waterstones. This should provide some good eval for oxidation protection. I live in the desert and dry my knives well so I really don't have much of a rust problem.
Mean while I will see how Frog lube continues in the Manix2 in the long-term.

[Mr_Moe]

^Thanks again. I think I'll order some from the States. Might be useful for my flashlights too.

[Sequimite]

Ballistol here.

I'm considering a change; anyone use this stuff? According to one of the reviewers the scientists at the Large Hadron Collider use this.
http://www.amazon.com/Passion-Natural-W ... ewpoints=1

[jackknifeh]

Ballistol here.

I'm considering a change; anyone use this stuff? According to one of the reviewers the scientists at the Large Hadron Collider use this.
http://www.amazon.com/Passion-Natural-W ... ewpoints=1

I might get a big barrel of this stuff. My wife has way too many cats. Might try it on my knives too. :)

Jack