scary sharp question

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texcaliber
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#61

Post by texcaliber »

I have been using all 5 grits and mark the edge with a Sharpe every new step. I am having a hard time running the stone inward and toward the tip while keeping constant pressure. I started yesterday at the 20degree angle and after the link spoonrobot provided I change to the 17degree.
I don't know what you're doing so I cannot offer much more help.

As for what I am doing, now its 17dergees with all 5grits and provided honing oil reapplied every grit and halfway though the pyramid count(10-10 9-9 8-8 7-7......1-1 switch grits and re mark blade and honing oil), and using the Lansky only for now. I am not sure of the use of the Spyderco Sharpmaker now.

Hope help you help me, :o
tex
"All I need in life is Love and a 45......and now a Spyderco."
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spoonrobot
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#62

Post by spoonrobot »

Stop using all 5 grits, it's too inconsistent. Use the coarse and fine only. Ditch the pyramid count, run the stone on one side until you get a burr, then switch sides. The way to run the stone is a WWWWWWWWW motion: Up and down with small incremental movements forward and the back. At this point you may want to clean your stones, Comet cleaner and a green Scotchbrite pad work very well for this.

17 is generally fine but I prefer 20 since it takes a lot less time with only a small perceived loss in cutting ability.

Sharpmaker is for maintenance and finishing. When you need to remove the final fine burr use it and when you need to touch up use it as well.

You're on the right track. :)
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THG
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#63

Post by THG »

texcaliber wrote:Here the updated pics:
http://img532.imageshack.us/img532/9246/img2977t.jpg
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/9592/img2981g.jpg
http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/2184/img2980n.jpg
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/5738/img2972v.jpg

Thanks again for all the help and as far as the new edge, it is not anywhere near scary sharp yet but at least its not a butter-blade anymore.

tex
You're not going to get a "scary sharp" edge in one day. Not even in a week. It's something that really takes practice, and a lot of it.

Some advice:

In img2981g and img2980n, you can see one **** of a big burr. That's not a good cutting edge; it may seem sharp right now, but all of that floppy burr is break off and leave you with a tattered edge after a cut or two.

You've raised an edge, so now your goal should be to remove the burr. Use your coarse stone and give one pass per side until the burr is gone or minimized. Then start using your finer stones and give one pass per side until you can't see that burr ("highlight" along the edge) anymore.

If you're using a system that keeps an exact angle, that burr is just going to flop back and forth. To get rid of it, I would (well, I used to, when I used systems) raise the angle and use a fine or extra fine stone and give one pass per side, (do it one or two times). Do this VERY lightly. You will be creating a microbevel with this method in order to get rid of the burr. After this, your knife should be extremely sharp. You can either leave it like this with the microbevel (some people prefer it), or you can set it back to your lower angle and do 1 pass per side from now on and restore it to a single bevel with your coarse stone. Once you restore it to a single bevel, you can move onto finer stones and continue, again remembering to do 1 pass per side from now on.

Also remember that if you're using a clamp, you have to clamp the knife in the exact same spot every time, or else the angle will be slightly different each time you use it. Always put some sharpie marks on the bevels to verify where you're sharpening (I just distribute a few lines every cm or so along the bevels).

Good luck.
Im not good at sharpening, even with a sharpmaker. How get your blade good can your blade with an edge pro system? - Bladeforums user

Has anyone really been far even as decided to use even go want to do look more like? - Some Online Meme
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texcaliber
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#64

Post by texcaliber »

You've raised an edge, so now your goal should be to remove the burr. Use your coarse stone and give one pass per side until the burr is gone or minimized. Then start using your finer stones and give one pass per side until you can't see that burr ("highlight" along the edge) anymore.
do i start over at the same angle?
tex
"All I need in life is Love and a 45......and now a Spyderco."
Hector Castro
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#65

Post by Hector Castro »

glad to hear that your knife is getting sharp. Your frustrations in sharpening have been seen here before! There is a learning curve!
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dsmegst
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#66

Post by dsmegst »

With the Sharpmaker, less pressure is what you want. Go lightly and you won't raise a new burr. I think you're almost there.
Dan (dsmegst)

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texcaliber
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#67

Post by texcaliber »

Pressure, this is the new word for the day tomorrow. If I am learning correctly, the stones need a fair amount in the beginning but need almost none at the end. I can not fully fathom the difference between some and none, but I am seeing a huge difference in sharpness. I do not think my caveman like skills are capable of light-enough pressure......but I will give it a serious go and let everyone know of failure or success.

Thanks again,
tex
"All I need in life is Love and a 45......and now a Spyderco."
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chuck_roxas45
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#68

Post by chuck_roxas45 »

that's a hearty well done in my book, sorry for doubting.
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Scottie3000
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#69

Post by Scottie3000 »

You'll be glad you stuck with it the day you sharpen up your favorite knife to pop hairs off your arm in about 30 min tops. Its highly rewarding to know you are capable of such an ancient important man-skill.
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texcaliber
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#70

Post by texcaliber »

chuck_roxas45 wrote:that's a hearty well done in my book, sorry for doubting.
Not to worry man, now that my aggravation level has come down to normal, it was mostly my fault for being ignorant of the blogging process.
Thanks for hanging in with me Everyone.
I really need and appreciate the help,
tex
"All I need in life is Love and a 45......and now a Spyderco."
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THG
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#71

Post by THG »

texcaliber wrote:do i start over at the same angle?
tex
I'm not sure what you mean by "start over," but you should continue to use the same angle. Unless you want to put a microbevel, that is. Oh, and this applies if you are hand-sharpening. If you're using a clamp system, read the above method that I posted.
Im not good at sharpening, even with a sharpmaker. How get your blade good can your blade with an edge pro system? - Bladeforums user

Has anyone really been far even as decided to use even go want to do look more like? - Some Online Meme
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dbcad
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#72

Post by dbcad »

You'll get it Tex. It does take some time though. Having not sharpened for 30 years, then trying to do it again 6 months ago I found myself running into a lot of the same issues you have.

Remember the basics, first you raise a burr, then you try to cleanly get rid of the burr. Angles are optional depending on what you want for the blade.
Don't give up, I'm with you too.

Charlie
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