Straight Razor from Spyderco

[Mage7]

Here is a good educational video on How To.

One thing that always makes me think I don't get my straight razors sharp enough is when people make comments like, "Don't ever let it touch your skin without moving, or it will cut you." For example when he was talking about finding the angle... I don't have that experience at all.

I've been thinking about starting to restore and resell razors as shave ready for as cheap as possible. I've done 5 so far, with various levels of success. Turns out I suck at re-pinning them. Either my scales end up not flush, or the pivot ends up dangerously loose. Been thinking about sending some of those duds off to some experienced straight razor enthusiasts for some feedback on my edges.

I like the denim strop idea though. I think I'm gonna try that. I have been using a paddle strop and have always wondered how having some slack in it would affect things. Seems like it would allow the apex to be radiused, but then on the other hand maybe it creates a kind of micro bevel? I remember reading an article on Science of Sharp about it long ago but don't remember which it was.

I switched back to WTG passes only for a while. I just can't seem to not nick myself on ATG passes, mostly because the grain goes side to side on my neck, and trying to move the razor in that direction is really hard. I finally got the hang of doing it without nicking myself, but there's so much left over irritation that I've never let fully heal, that it's kind of hard to tell what is new irritation and what's old.

Anyway, thanks for the link. I'm gonna check out the whole course. I could probably stand to relearn. I pretty much winged it and developed my process by trial and error, and it's uhh... Not the best.

[Doc Dan]

Here is a good educational video on How To.

One thing that always makes me think I don't get my straight razors sharp enough is when people make comments like, "Don't ever let it touch your skin without moving, or it will cut you." For example when he was talking about finding the angle... I don't have that experience at all.

I've been thinking about starting to restore and resell razors as shave ready for as cheap as possible. I've done 5 so far, with various levels of success. Turns out I suck at re-pinning them. Either my scales end up not flush, or the pivot ends up dangerously loose. Been thinking about sending some of those duds off to some experienced straight razor enthusiasts for some feedback on my edges.

I like the denim strop idea though. I think I'm gonna try that. I have been using a paddle strop and have always wondered how having some slack in it would affect things. Seems like it would allow the apex to be radiused, but then on the other hand maybe it creates a kind of micro bevel? I remember reading an article on Science of Sharp about it long ago but don't remember which it was.

I switched back to WTG passes only for a while. I just can't seem to not nick myself on ATG passes, mostly because the grain goes side to side on my neck, and trying to move the razor in that direction is really hard. I finally got the hang of doing it without nicking myself, but there's so much left over irritation that I've never let fully heal, that it's kind of hard to tell what is new irritation and what's old.

Anyway, thanks for the link. I'm gonna check out the whole course. I could probably stand to relearn. I pretty much winged it and developed my process by trial and error, and it's uhh... Not the best.

Two things come to mind: First, I am impressed with the edges I am getting from diamond pasted balsa. Message me if you are interested and I'll clue you in. Be warned, this produces an extremely sharp edge.

Second, it might be your soap that keeps you from doing XTG and ATG passes. Soap quality is very important and just because the soap is popular doesn't mean it is the right soap for your particular face. Also, as said in the video, moister soap, but not runny, is what you want with a straight razor...and a better quality soap, such as one of Shannon's Chupacabra base soaps or Ariana and Evans Kaizen 2e based soaps. Barrister and Mann Omnibus base is great, too.

[Mage7]

Here is a good educational video on How To.

One thing that always makes me think I don't get my straight razors sharp enough is when people make comments like, "Don't ever let it touch your skin without moving, or it will cut you." For example when he was talking about finding the angle... I don't have that experience at all.

I've been thinking about starting to restore and resell razors as shave ready for as cheap as possible. I've done 5 so far, with various levels of success. Turns out I suck at re-pinning them. Either my scales end up not flush, or the pivot ends up dangerously loose. Been thinking about sending some of those duds off to some experienced straight razor enthusiasts for some feedback on my edges.

I like the denim strop idea though. I think I'm gonna try that. I have been using a paddle strop and have always wondered how having some slack in it would affect things. Seems like it would allow the apex to be radiused, but then on the other hand maybe it creates a kind of micro bevel? I remember reading an article on Science of Sharp about it long ago but don't remember which it was.

I switched back to WTG passes only for a while. I just can't seem to not nick myself on ATG passes, mostly because the grain goes side to side on my neck, and trying to move the razor in that direction is really hard. I finally got the hang of doing it without nicking myself, but there's so much left over irritation that I've never let fully heal, that it's kind of hard to tell what is new irritation and what's old.

Anyway, thanks for the link. I'm gonna check out the whole course. I could probably stand to relearn. I pretty much winged it and developed my process by trial and error, and it's uhh... Not the best.

Two things come to mind: First, I am impressed with the edges I am getting from diamond pasted balsa. Message me if you are interested and I'll clue you in. Be warned, this produces an extremely sharp edge.

Second, it might be your soap that keeps you from doing XTG and ATG passes. Soap quality is very important and just because the soap is popular doesn't mean it is the right soap for your particular face. Also, as said in the video, moister soap, but not runny, is what you want with a straight razor...and a better quality soap, such as one of Shannon's Chupacabra base soaps or Ariana and Evans Kaizen 2e based soaps. Barrister and Mann Omnibus base is great, too.

One thing I noticed about those videos that seems to go against the traditional wisdom of which order the passes go in. I always thought it must go WTG, XTG and then ATG, but he leaves XTG for last. Does it actually even matter or is it just particular to his grain pattern?

[Doc Dan]

Here is a good educational video on How To.

One thing that always makes me think I don't get my straight razors sharp enough is when people make comments like, "Don't ever let it touch your skin without moving, or it will cut you." For example when he was talking about finding the angle... I don't have that experience at all.

I've been thinking about starting to restore and resell razors as shave ready for as cheap as possible. I've done 5 so far, with various levels of success. Turns out I suck at re-pinning them. Either my scales end up not flush, or the pivot ends up dangerously loose. Been thinking about sending some of those duds off to some experienced straight razor enthusiasts for some feedback on my edges.

I like the denim strop idea though. I think I'm gonna try that. I have been using a paddle strop and have always wondered how having some slack in it would affect things. Seems like it would allow the apex to be radiused, but then on the other hand maybe it creates a kind of micro bevel? I remember reading an article on Science of Sharp about it long ago but don't remember which it was.

I switched back to WTG passes only for a while. I just can't seem to not nick myself on ATG passes, mostly because the grain goes side to side on my neck, and trying to move the razor in that direction is really hard. I finally got the hang of doing it without nicking myself, but there's so much left over irritation that I've never let fully heal, that it's kind of hard to tell what is new irritation and what's old.

Anyway, thanks for the link. I'm gonna check out the whole course. I could probably stand to relearn. I pretty much winged it and developed my process by trial and error, and it's uhh... Not the best.

Two things come to mind: First, I am impressed with the edges I am getting from diamond pasted balsa. Message me if you are interested and I'll clue you in. Be warned, this produces an extremely sharp edge.

Second, it might be your soap that keeps you from doing XTG and ATG passes. Soap quality is very important and just because the soap is popular doesn't mean it is the right soap for your particular face. Also, as said in the video, moister soap, but not runny, is what you want with a straight razor...and a better quality soap, such as one of Shannon's Chupacabra base soaps or Ariana and Evans Kaizen 2e based soaps. Barrister and Mann Omnibus base is great, too.

One thing I noticed about those videos that seems to go against the traditional wisdom of which order the passes go in. I always thought it must go WTG, XTG and then ATG, but he leaves XTG for last. Does it actually even matter or is it just particular to his grain pattern?

Most people I know, including me, go WTG, ATG, and XTG, in that order. Do whatever works best for you.

[Doc Dan]

Well, it is 2024. I am hoping that this year will bring forth the Spyderco Straight Razor (Wildcat?).

Remember, for those of you starting out using a straight razor, don't try to use the whole blade length. Use a third to a half of the length while shaving. Less is more. Also, start by laying the blade flat on your skin, no pressure, and raise the spine one spine thickness off of your face. That is the angle for a good shave. Less angle than peeling an apple. Don't press. Let the razor do most of the work. As you gain experience, you will know your angles and pressures that you need. I use the toe (front part of the edge) the most, but I also use the heel (back part of the edge) for some tight places, as examples. Start like this and you won't get cut.

[Doc Dan]

@Sal, any update on the straight razor?

What have you decided to call it?

[Doc Dan]

Blonde horn scaled Thiers Issard Medaille D'Or Alger straight razor. The C135 steel is run around 64-65 HRC.
Shannon's Soaps Balkan Blend. The scent is a blend of four types of pipe tobacco, including latakia and others. The Chupacabra base is very slick.
The brush is one I cobbled together from parts bought from an online seller in Michigan.

This was a glorious shave. I am posting lest we forget.

[zypsyden]

I am starting to despair. =(

[Doc Dan]

I am starting to despair. =(

Let's not despair. Spyderco had a lot to catch up on because of the expansion. Maybe we will see it in 2025. @sal

[sal]

Thanx Doc,

That is correct.

sal

[jasong™]

I would buy one for sure

[Doc Dan]

Just to keep our appetites wetted.

Thiers Issard Medaille D'Or de Alger full hollow ground razor with black horn scales, made in France and run hard at 64 HRC. It sings when I shave. Cella tallow and sweet almond oil soap (lovely) and an APShaveCo 28mm G5C fiber brush.

[JustinTime]

I would buy one or more.

I use a straight razor once in a while and have collected a few of them. Though, I haven’t fully shaved my face since August 2013.

Interesting thread. Reminds me I was quite active on the badger & blade forum years ago.

[Doc Dan]

I've been experimenting with diamond pasted balsa to keep my edges keen.
https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/th ... t-11382391

Some people think this makes the razor too sharp, but I am a fan of Feather blades in my regular double edged safety razors, so I find it really nice.

Tomorrow, Sunday, I'll get out one of my straights and have a marvelous shave and enjoy each peaceful stroke. I'll enjoy each lap on the leather strop afterwards, and enjoy oiling the razor before putting it up. I'm going to use a soap I haven't had in a long time as it was out of stock here forever, it seemed. It is Stirling tallow and lanolin Glacial Lemon Chill. Freezing fresh lemon. Whoowee!

[VandymanG]

Looking for a budget friendly straight razor. I grew a beard while my daughter had been away at Syracuse University. She asked if she could shave my beard when she comes home for winter break and I said yes as long as it is with a straight razor. Any suggestions would be nice. Was hoping Spyderco would have one by now cause I’d definitely buy it even if it wasn’t budget friendly.

[Doc Dan]

Looking for a budget friendly straight razor. I grew a beard while my daughter had been away at Syracuse University. She asked if she could shave my beard when she comes home for winter break and I said yes as long as it is with a straight razor. Any suggestions would be nice. Was hoping Spyderco would have one by now cause I’d definitely buy it even if it wasn’t budget friendly.

You can get a good deal on some vintage razors. Of course, then they have to be professionally honed unless you know how to do it. When the razor says it shave ready that does not mean that it has been honed where that it will shave properly. What it means is is that it has been cleaned up and everything is ready to go for you to set up the way you want it. You can try Duke City on eBay and see what he's got. He also has the best deals in the world on the quality strops. I can't remember, but it seems like he does hone his razors before he sells them. But I'm not sure about that. You can also take a look at theinvisibleedge.co.uk. even though they're in the UK they ship worldwide for free. Every razor that goes out of that shop is honed and ready to go. You can get some real steals if you look hard enough on eBay or vintage but then as I said, you'd still have to get it honed.

[Doc Dan]

Straight razor blade sizes are something that mystifies many people, but it is really not complicated. Each blade is based on 1 inch, or 8/8. 3/8 and 4/8 are usually for trim work by a barber. The 5/8 is a very popular size for men and women to shave with, and so is the slightly larger 6/8 (my favorite). The 5/8 is usually recommended for the beginner, too, though my first was a 6/8 and it was fine. Some people find larger razors hard to see around when shaving. There are 7/8 and 8/8 razors that experienced users like, and there are even 9/8 choppers out there. I think those big ones are cool, but the most practical day to day razors are the 5/8 and 6/8 sizes.

Another thing that goes along with sizes is the cost. The cost rises with the size. A large razor is going to be much more expensive than the smaller sizes.

[Actinolite]

I used to shave with a straight razor that had a replaceable blade. It worked okay, but I lost track of it when I couldn't find any blades. I'd be interested. These plastic, multi-blade razors are quick and easy, but they don't work all that well.

[VandymanG]

Straight razor blade sizes are something that mystifies many people, but it is really not complicated. Each blade is based on 1 inch, or 8/8. 3/8 and 4/8 are usually for trim work by a barber. The 5/8 is a very popular size for men and women to shave with, and so is the slightly larger 6/8 (my favorite). The 5/8 is usually recommended for the beginner, too, though my first was a 6/8 and it was fine. Some people find larger razors hard to see around when shaving. There are 7/8 and 8/8 razors that experienced users like, and there are even 9/8 choppers out there. I think those big ones are cool, but the most practical day to day razors are the 5/8 and 6/8 sizes.

Another thing that goes along with sizes is the cost. The cost rises with the size. A large razor is going to be much more expensive than the smaller sizes.

Thanks for the information.

[Doc Dan]

Here is a tour of the Thiers Issard shop in France.