VG10 is the Foundational Steel of Spyderco?

[nerdlock]

Also, is the liklihood of an Endura 4 in Spy27 steel low because they already manufacture them with VG10 and there is no justification for making some from CPM Spy27 alloy?

Hm, interesting question actually and I really haven't thought of that. I don't know if Sal or the others in the management have confirmed this, but it seems more likely than not, given that SPY27 is proprietary and probably limited to Golden models, and I would assume it would be costly to ship it to Seki and would add to the overhead cost of any Japan-made Spyderco. I think you answered yourself here SEF, unless I'm mistaken.

[yablanowitz]

Hi SEF,

Generally speaking if our customers want it, we'll make it.

sal

Mr. Glesser,

Please forgive my highjacking of this thread as it relates to VG-10 (one of my top 3 steel choices of all time). I love Spyderco's response to their customer base. With that said, please, please, please make a Native Lightweight Scout model (that sits between the Native Chief and Native size) oh and if I could go one further, please allow it in a lightweight frn/frcp salt model with Magnacut

Hi Humint,

I'll get right on it.

sal

I love the way people casually request something that will require half a million dollars in engineering, prototyping, testing and tooling like it was a different finish on a clip.

[cabfrank]

See below

[cabfrank]

Hey Humint,

I don't think we can use the name "Scout" as other companies are using it and it's disrespectful to infringe, even if it's not protected.

sal

How about "Brave"?

[James Y]

If one happens to prefer Spydercos serrations over a plain edge, in my (admittedly limited) experience VG10 is kind of a "supersteel" when it comes to how well it pairs and works with "teeth".

I agree. I like VG-10 in both PE and SE, but I find that it's exceptionally good in SE.

Jim

[RugerNurse]

Which would be easier for someone who hasn’t used serrations to maintain: VG10 or H2?

[vivi]

Which would be easier for someone who hasn’t used serrations to maintain: VG10 or H2?

Both are easy, but H2 grinds a little faster so it gets my vote. SE Salts in H2 are a great introduction to SE.

[Wartstein]

Which would be easier for someone who hasn’t used serrations to maintain: VG10 or H2?

Both no problem with a sharpmaker.

More of a consideration here is which kind of grind and type of serrations one is looking for:

- H1/H2 "only" in sabre-hollow grind and with in my experience a bit more "aggressive" serrations (will mellow out over time and sharpenings, which is a good thing imo).
Very sturdy tip too.

- VG10 SE mostly in ffg or true sabre grind (not hollow).
Ffg to me still the most universally capable kind of grind, while I am not really into sabre grind when it comes to folders.

Some SE VG10 Spydies have great, "mellow", non aggressive serrations out of the Box, like Endela, Leaf Jumper or Stretch XL SE - so the kind of SE that I personally find to be the "better PE"

[James Y]

I like SE in both VG-10 and H1 (I don't have anything in H2). But to me, SE VG-10 in FFG is something special. Especially on my SE Endela, with its shallow serration pattern.

Jim

[Wartstein]

I like SE in both VG-10 and H1 (I don't have anything in H2). But to me, SE VG-10 in FFG is something special. Especially on my SE Endela, with its shallow serrations pattern.

Jim

This still is my number 1 recommendation for trying out SE.

[SpyderEdgeForever]

Wartstein my friend Welcome back! It is great to see you, sir.

[JSumm]

Which would be easier for someone who hasn’t used serrations to maintain: VG10 or H2?

I would go with Wartstein's reccomendation of the Endela in VG-10. I have the Endela Serrated K390. I assume they are ground the same because those serrations on my K390 Endela are ground better IMHO than the other serrated Seki models I have.

May just be my technique, but I can typically sharpen up the K390 Endela faster than I can on my saber ground H2 salts. Probably part thick grind and part technique.

[skeeg11]

Don't rule out serrated FFG LC200N either when comparing serrated steels in knives.

[jwbnyc]

Oh! ^^^^ Yes Indeedy ^^^^ That’s the stuff!

Spyderedge LC200N is, I think, the sliciest of slicy things you can possibly have!

No claims for ultimate performance parameters, but if you spend some time on the rods with this stuff it’s amazing.

Swick, Salt 2, I need to get this in a PAC Salt. Just awesome.

[skeeg11]

Oh! ^^^^ Yes Indeedy ^^^^ That’s the stuff!

Spyderedge LC200N is, I think, the sliciest of slicy things you can possibly have!

No claims for ultimate performance parameters, but if you spend some time on the rods with this stuff it’s amazing.

Swick, Salt 2, I need to get this in a PAC Salt. Just awesome.

Yeppers. Serrated FFG LC200N Swick, PacSalt2, and UKPK really made an impression on me. The serrated LC200N UKPK is wonderfully handy.

[Wartstein]

...

Yeppers. Serrated FFG LC200N Swick, PacSalt2, and UKPK really made an impression on me. The serrated LC200N UKPK is wonderfully handy.

This is saying nothing at all about the steels themselves, but when I compare my (ffg LC 200N) Salt SE to my (VG10) Endela SE, the latter is an even better cutter in my use, due to its shallower, less "aggressive" serration pattern. Not saying that the Salt 2 SE is bad by any means, I love mine, but when it comes to "first experience why the spyderedge is so good" in regular EDC tasks, I personally would recommend the VG10 Endela SE over the Salt 2 SE.
Just my 2c, ymmv of course!

[Wartstein]

Wartstein my friend Welcome back! It is great to see you, sir.

Thanks, SEF, good to "see" you too... the break YOU took till quite recently was definitely longer than my 2 month absence, right?

[zuludelta]

If one happens to prefer Spydercos serrations over a plain edge, in my (admittedly limited) experience VG10 is kind of a "supersteel" when it comes to how well it pairs and works with "teeth".

... to me, SE VG-10 in FFG is something special. Especially on my SE Endela, with its shallow serration pattern.

VG-10 (followed by LC200N) is probably my favourite steel in the Spyderco serration pattern, particularly for extended periods of warehouse work or cutting plant material outdoors, where I normally only have access to either a pen-style pocket sharpener, the miniature diamond sharpener in the Leatherman Signal, or the metal file in my Leatherman Charge for use in blade maintenance.

VG-10 has very, very good edge retention for an ingot steel that is further emphasized by Spyderco's excellent SE pattern, and the edge is much more easily maintained or even repaired (to a degree) with any decent, small rod-shaped sharpening tool—I've even used a cheap chainsaw file out in the field—compared to SE blades made of more advanced particle metallurgy steels.

[skeeg11]

Wartstein my friend Welcome back! It is great to see you, sir.

Thanks, SEF, good to "see" you too... the break YOU took till quite recently was definitely longer than my 2 month absence, right?
[/qu

[skeeg11]

...

Yeppers. Serrated FFG LC200N Swick, PacSalt2, and UKPK really made an impression on me. The serrated LC200N UKPK is wonderfully handy.

This is saying nothing at all about the steels themselves, but when I compare my (ffg LC 200N) Salt SE to my (VG10) Endela SE, the latter is an even better cutter in my use, due to its shallower, less "aggressive" serration pattern. Not saying that the Salt 2 SE is bad by any means, I love mine, but when it comes to "first experience why the spyderedge is so good" in regular EDC tasks, I personally would recommend the VG10 Endela SE over the Salt 2 SE.
Just my 2c, ymmv of course!

You may very well be correct in your comparison of the difference in the grind of the serrations on the two models. The grind of the serrations on my seki made LC200N PacSalt 2 are slightly more aggressive than my Golden made LC200N UKPK.