Spyderco Forums

Surfingringo wrote:

Ankerson wrote: .....
I would think the CBN stones would be good for that, then move to the Med etc.

The cbn/diamonds work great for reprofiling and even provide a good finish if you are looking for a coarse edge.......

Thanks for the responses guys :)

MichaelScott wrote:So, if I’m understanding this discussion correctly, if I do a careful job of sharpening with the brown Sharpmaker rods to obtain a more coarse finish (say, 40º setting) I can get as good a cutting edge as finishing up with the white rods?

- from a sharpening novice -

Depending on what you’re cutting, you can get a much BETTER cutting edge than finishing with the fine rods. With precision and very light passes you can get a knife to whittle free hanging hair off the sm medium rods. That edge will have FAR more bite than an edge finished on the fine or UF rods. To confirm this, finish a knife on the medium rods then finish another knife on the UF rods and then try cutting some heavy polypropylene rope with each. The coarser finish will slice right through the rope where the more refined (and likely “sharper”) finish will slide over the hard material as if it’s not even sharp. This can also be observed cleaning fish and game. Refined edges have their uses but an edge with some bite is far more useful and functional for most tasks. I think some people when they hear “coarse edge” think we are saying “less sharp”. That does not have to be the case. High sharpness off a coarse stone makes for an amazing edge.

Surfingringo wrote:

MichaelScott wrote:So, if I’m understanding this discussion correctly, if I do a careful job of sharpening with the brown Sharpmaker rods to obtain a more coarse finish (say, 40º setting) I can get as good a cutting edge as finishing up with the white rods?

- from a sharpening novice -

Depending on what you’re cutting, you can get a much BETTER cutting edge than finishing with the fine rods. With precision and very light passes you can get a knife to whittle free hanging hair off the sm medium rods. That edge will have FAR more bite than an edge finished on the fine or UF rods. To confirm this, finish a knife on the medium rods then finish another knife on the UF rods and then try cutting some heavy polypropylene rope with each. The coarser finish will slice right through the rope where the more refined (and likely “sharper”) finish will slide over the hard material as if it’s not even sharp. This can also be observed cleaning fish and game. Refined edges have their uses but an edge with some bite is far more useful and functional for most tasks. I think some people when they hear “coarse edge” think we are saying “less sharp”. That does not have to be the case. High sharpness off a coarse stone makes for an amazing edge.

<mattman *liked* your post>

I agree with Lance about the utility of a very sharp toothy edge. Back when I polished all my edges I would find them sliding off the work without biting in. A toothy edge is like serrations, but on a microscopic scale.

That's too cool, clovehitch, and by your username, your Dad clearly taught you the art of knot making, as well.

For between a diamond stone, and a strop, you say I can use a ceramic stone. Does ceramic come by grit number, or simply by fine, extra fine, etc?

What do you suggest is a good grit / coarseness combination for the three products, including micron size for the diamond paste?

I'm not sure that stropping away a burr is best practice and I'm inclined to think you probably shouldn't strop until you've absolutely minimised any burr by cutting it away with progressively lighter and lighter alternating passes on a stone.

Just my 2c worth. :)

clovehitch wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 28, 2018 6:37 pm

Bloke wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 28, 2018 5:50 pm

I'm not sure that stropping away a burr is best practice and I'm inclined to think you probably shouldn't strop until you've absolutely minimised any burr by cutting it away with progressively lighter and lighter alternating passes on a stone.

Just my 2c worth. :)

Sure, that's more efficient generally. But in the case of the spyderco UF stone, the burr you leave after hitting both sides a few times will strop out quite easily.

I just avoid burrs is all and I've found the burr left by the F and UF SharpMaker rods on a blade sharpened using ultra light pressure is near non existent and strops away with the palm of your hand. :)

if you're leaving a burr you can detect without specialized magnification equipment when using the ultrafine stones, something went wrong. If I can detect a burr off the mediums I keep using them until I can't, much less progressing from fine to ultrafine.

Vivi wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 28, 2018 7:20 pm

if you're leaving a burr you can detect without specialized magnification equipment when using the ultrafine stones, something went wrong. If I can detect a burr off the mediums I keep using them until I can't, much less progressing from fine to ultrafine.

Hey Vivi, I touched up three blades that were still 'sharp' but not clean shaving after cutting up cardboard on the weekend.

I used the med rods on the SM and took a leaf out of your book. I didn't fix or hold the SM I just placed it on the kitchen work bench like I saw you do. :cool:

When I was done after half a dozen strokes, the only way I could detect a burr was by letting the weight of the blade bite into a three day growth on my face. One side of the blade bit a wee bit better than the other.

I stropped on my palm and called it good.

yep, that feather touch does the trick, regardless of what grit you're using. the strip of steel forming the apex is pretty thin!

Bloke wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 28, 2018 7:40 pm

Vivi wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 28, 2018 7:20 pm

if you're leaving a burr you can detect without specialized magnification equipment when using the ultrafine stones, something went wrong. If I can detect a burr off the mediums I keep using them until I can't, much less progressing from fine to ultrafine.

Hey Vivi, I touched up three blades that were still 'sharp' but not clean shaving after cutting up cardboard on the weekend.

I used the med rods on the SM and took a leaf out of your book. I didn't fix or hold the SM I just placed it on the kitchen work bench like I saw you do. :cool:

When I was done after half a dozen strokes, the only way I could detect a burr was by letting the weight of the blade bite into a three day growth on my face. One side of the blade bit a wee bit better than the other.

I stropped on my palm and called it good.

Was this with an S110V blade?

BigCanadian wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 01, 2018 6:38 am

Was this with an S110V blade?

No mate. The blades were Vanax, S30V and S110V's cousin S90V. :)

Vanax 75?

BigCanadian wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 01, 2018 1:53 pm

Vanax 75?

Couldn't say. It's a knife brother Bluntcut made that I've been playing with. :)

Bluntcut.......................try saying that ten times, fast :)

Bloke wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 01, 2018 2:06 pm

BigCanadian wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 01, 2018 1:53 pm

Vanax 75?

Couldn't say. It's a knife brother Bluntcut made that I've been playing with. :)

That's the newest version of Vanax called Vanax SC (SuperClean). Imagine LC200N with a bunch of hard carbides (mostly from 3.5% vanadium and some from the 1.1% molybdenum and 18% chromium).

attila wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 01, 2018 10:14 pm

That's the newest version of Vanax called Vanax SC (SuperClean). Imagine LC200N with a bunch of hard carbides (mostly from 3.5% vanadium and some from the 1.1% molybdenum and 18% chromium).

Thanks attila! :o
I don't have any LC200N but a month in salt water has had zero effect on Vanax SC. :)

Bloke wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 01, 2018 2:06 pm

BigCanadian wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 01, 2018 1:53 pm

Vanax 75?

Couldn't say. It's a knife brother Bluntcut made that I've been playing with. :)

It’s that good isn’t it ?

Surfingringo wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 26, 2018 2:34 pm

MichaelScott wrote:So, if I’m understanding this discussion correctly, if I do a careful job of sharpening with the brown Sharpmaker rods to obtain a more coarse finish (say, 40º setting) I can get as good a cutting edge as finishing up with the white rods?

- from a sharpening novice -

Depending on what you’re cutting, you can get a much BETTER cutting edge than finishing with the fine rods. With precision and very light passes you can get a knife to whittle free hanging hair off the sm medium rods. That edge will have FAR more bite than an edge finished on the fine or UF rods. To confirm this, finish a knife on the medium rods then finish another knife on the UF rods and then try cutting some heavy polypropylene rope with each. The coarser finish will slice right through the rope where the more refined (and likely “sharper”) finish will slide over the hard material as if it’s not even sharp. This can also be observed cleaning fish and game. Refined edges have their uses but an edge with some bite is far more useful and functional for most tasks. I think some people when they hear “coarse edge” think we are saying “less sharp”. That does not have to be the case. High sharpness off a coarse stone makes for an amazing edge.

That's a great point you make there SURF because I've also found that especially with kitchen Spyders that an edge that's a bit more coarse and toothy does do considerably better with a toothy edge. I've found that some of my other benchstones ( non-Spyderco) do leave edges on most steels just like you've described.

I do however find that several of these supersteels like M390, S110V, XHP ect do have some cutting advantages after using a Spyderco Ultra-Fine stone on them>> but the one qualifier to make that work is that you have to have an edge that floats through flimsy paper before that polishing/refinement gives you any advantage. But I have experienced what you've declared about some polished/refined edges not being as aggressive as you might believe. And I have had some great working edges especially with VG-10 blade steel by just using only the Spyderco medium stones. Very interesting thread thus far

G'day clovehitch, :)

The refined edge versus the coarse edge debate rages here from time to time and we ultimately agree to disagree. :rolleyes:

Somethings just don't change. A couple of things being, a super refined edge won't cut rope and it won't cut through fish bones.

A few of the brothers here have stated they can achieve a hair whittling edge off the medium stones using a SharpMaker. I didn't doubt them but I've never had to whittle hair and thought nothing of it.

As it goes I've been playing with my SharpMaker a fair bit over the last week or so and out of boredom and a little curiosity the other night after dinner, I took a little German made paring knife of some sort of 440 Stainless flavour I'd guess fairly easily to hair whittling off the medium stones. Now I'm not saying I can do the same with S110V and I haven't tried but what I can say is, in my time playing with knives this would have to be the ultimate edge for my requirements at least.