Sounds like a bit of work as well, but the result was worth it. If that's Lexan or something similar, it's probably hard as nails. I hadn't thought of it before, but I think one could use the mule itself as a template and cut out all but the front end with a small router or counter top edger, then use a small roundover bit to contour the edges. Since it's such a small item, securing the work would be very tricky. I think I might try that a some point :)Sharktooth wrote:Cheers! I shaped these scales on a bench grinder, then on to hand files and sandpaper progression. It was a load of fun
xceptnl wrote:Started using it in the kitchen tonight.
*Landon*sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
I'm planning on treating mine with oil (scales, not peppers :) )--just drenching them, letting it soak in a while, and then washing with Dawn--because I have a notion that they won't soak up as much dirt, vegetable juice, etc, and will stay more evenly colored if they are already loaded with oil. I'm planning to use mineral oil, because I'm going to use the knife in the kitchen. I'm just going to let patina develop on the blade naturally, but I was afraid the coyote color, being so pale, would look blotchy and dirty if I left it as is. It'll be interesting to compare pictures later and see how my treatment compares to yours, which I think you said you were going to leave unoiled.xceptnl wrote:I am leaving the coyote on here and I need to reorder later next month to finish some scales for other Mules. I like the color more than I thought, but if the patina starts to get really dark, I may switch to the natural G-10 (G-11) option 4 handles that are on my Superblue currently. Thanks for the compliments on the peppers. I am constantly trying new kinds and I grow a few of my own. These were a barter trade with a fellow pepper lover. He carries the ones on the right (some kind of serano hybrid) in his pocket and pops them in his mouth like candy throughout his work day. He's better than I because they pleased me much more when mixed into a dish.
I am going to leave them unoiled. These have already been washed in dawn soap twice and I can see the oils from my hand starting to change the color of the high spots. I would say any food grade oil should work. If you had leftover corn oil or peanut oil, I say drop em in and let em soak. I don't think the G-10 will absorb any significant amount of moisture IIRC.DougC-3 wrote:I'm planning on treating mine with oil (scales, not peppers :) )--just drenching them, letting it soak in a while, and then washing with Dawn--because I have a notion that they won't soak up as much dirt, vegetable juice, etc, and will stay more evenly colored if they are already loaded with oil. I'm planning to use mineral oil, because I'm going to use the knife in the kitchen. I'm just going to let patina develop on the blade naturally, but I was afraid the coyote color, being so pale, would look blotchy and dirty if I left it as is. It'll be interesting to compare pictures later and see how my treatment compares to yours, which I think you said you were going to leave unoiled.
*Landon*sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
It is 3/16" thick Lexan sheet and is very impact resistant. The material isn't to difficult to cut/work, with the right tools... or in my case, whatever tools are available! Give it a shot and let us know how it goes!DougC-3 wrote:Sounds like a bit of work as well, but the result was worth it. If that's Lexan or something similar, it's probably hard as nails. I hadn't thought of it before, but I think one could use the mule itself as a template and cut out all but the front end with a small router or counter top edger, then use a small roundover bit to contour the edges. Since it's such a small item, securing the work would be very tricky. I think I might try that a some point :)
I'd like to, maybe even 1/4" in an interesting translucent color, with rounded edged, but, unfortunately, I've got several must-do things on the list ahead of it.Sharktooth wrote:It is 3/16" thick Lexan sheet and is very impact resistant. The material isn't to difficult to cut/work, with the right tools... or in my case, whatever tools are available! Give it a shot and let us know how it goes!
I'd be darned excited too if I had an K390 OTK coming. :Drazorsharp wrote:Man , this is making me SUPER excited for my Ozark Tradition DC slicer (David Williamson) , Will be K390 at 64HRC, 0.008" behind the edge, Redwood Burl with CF bolster, 2.7mm thick..... Wish I had the moolah to jump on the mule at thje time or release. Got a native instead
