Spyderco Forums

Donut, I'll let you know once mine arrives. Tuf-Glide did well on the M4 Manix but I recently took it off with mineral spirits to see how fast it would patina naturally, thinking I could buff it off and reapply Tuf-Glide if needed.

phaust wrote: What is the concern over the rust? You could use that kitchen knife for the rest of your life without treating it against corrosion, and it will be fine.

This is next part is not directed to you directly; a lot of people seem concerned over rust. What is the worry? It does not ruin the knife. It is equivalent to worrying over getting scratches, and if some newbie to the forum posts something like that, everyone jumps on the "Just use it. Don't worry!" bus.

After using my superblue in the kitchen for 3-4 months and getting rust and light pitting in the blade, I must humbly disagree. You can't compare rust to a scratch, a scratch isn't going to eat away at your knife, letting it patina is letting it corrode, it does not protect a knife despite the misconceptions.
Your definition of "it will be fine" might be that you have a functional rust covered knife, but mine isn't, I personally like a clean knife to prepare food with.

If your going to use a non stainless folding knife in the kitchen some basic maintenance is essential IMO, if you must patina it some mineral oil on the pivot at least, assuming you practice some form of hygiene it will be washed regularly and its hard if not impossible to properly dry under the handle / pivot area.

Donut wrote: I'm there with you. I'd like to see someone's report on how well tuff-glide keeps patina and rust off Super Blue.

I don't have any personal experience with tuff glide, but I remember someone had trouble trying to force a patina after applying and removing tuff glide to their knife, so I would imagine it does an excellent job.

w3tnz wrote:If your going to use a non stainless folding knife in the kitchen some basic maintenance is essential IMO, if you must patina it some mineral oil on the pivot at least, assuming you practice some form of hygiene it will be washed regularly and its hard if not impossible to properly dry under the handle / pivot area.

I don't have much experience with carbon steel except for M4 and it's been a joke to maintain compared to the horror stories on the web. My understanding is that Super Blue and other simple carbons though are a different breed.

Still, I don't know if a forced patina is necessary. Just a factor of keeping something clean and lubed with something to keep air off it. Staining can be removed before it gets worse, etc.

If you do food prep with a folder you have to accept the fact that cleaning is going to be a chore. Your chance of foodborne illness and corrosion is much higher than a fixed-blade or kitchen knife which will do the job MUCH better. That said, with pressurized air and mineral oil I think you can force moisture out of almost any nook and cranny.

Blerv wrote:I don't have much experience with carbon steel except for M4 and it's been a joke to maintain compared to the horror stories on the web. My understanding is that Super Blue and other simple carbons though are a different breed.

Still, I don't know if a forced patina is necessary. Just a factor of keeping something clean and lubed with something to keep air off it. Staining can be removed before it gets worse, etc.

If you do food prep with a folder you have to accept the fact that cleaning is going to be a chore. Your chance of foodborne illness and corrosion is much higher than a fixed-blade or kitchen knife which will do the job MUCH better. That said, with pressurized air and mineral oil I think you can force moisture out of almost any nook and cranny.

Destruction of lubrication aside, I've used acetone or ethanol to remove water from metallographic specimens and drive water out of razors used for wet-shaving. I've read some watchmakers/repairers also use this trick to dry out movements, then use heat to drive off the alcohol. If I were to use the trick on a folder, I'd definitely be careful to reapply lubricant to the key places.

w3tnz wrote:You can't compare rust to a scratch, a scratch isn't going to eat away at your knife, letting it patina is letting it corrode, it does not protect a knife despite the misconceptions.

Actually it does. Patina and "rust" while both oxidation are not the same thing. Orange/brown rust will continue to eat away at metal. Patina will not. And once patina is formed, the metal is not exposed to form rust. It's not 100% but it makes a carbon steel very nearly stainless in behavior (which are also not "rustproof")

As to Tuff Glide, yes, it works VERY well. It was Jack who had trouble forming a patina once he'd applied it.

Ken

w3tnz wrote:After using my superblue in the kitchen for 3-4 months and getting rust and light pitting in the blade, I must humbly disagree. You can't compare rust to a scratch, a scratch isn't going to eat away at your knife, letting it patina is letting it corrode, it does not protect a knife despite the misconceptions.
Your definition of "it will be fine" might be that you have a functional rust covered knife, but mine isn't, I personally like a clean knife to prepare food with.

If your going to use a non stainless folding knife in the kitchen some basic maintenance is essential IMO, if you must patina it some mineral oil on the pivot at least, assuming you practice some form of hygiene it will be washed regularly and its hard if not impossible to properly dry under the handle / pivot area.



I don't have any personal experience with tuff glide, but I remember someone had trouble trying to force a patina after applying and removing tuff glide to their knife, so I would imagine it does an excellent job.

That's not what I said. I said it's not going to eat away your knife to make it unusable or unsafe, and I'm not talking about a 'stable' patina; I'm talking about any sort of rust. I have my grandfather's nonstainless knives from the '40-60s that my dad had stored in the attic in their leather sheathes, which is about as bad as can be. I lost a knife (fixed blade) in the yard as a kid, and it turned up 10+ years later, rusty, but with a little maintenance, I use it today. Rust is not the cancer of steel. If you don't like to see the pitting, that's ok and they're not for you, but it's still aesthetic, just like scratches are.

&quot wrote:Actually it does. Patina and "rust" while both oxidation are not the same thing. Orange/brown rust will continue to eat away at metal. Patina will not. And once patina is formed, the metal is not exposed to form rust. It's not 100% but it makes a carbon steel very nearly stainless in behavior (which are also not "rustproof")

Well that depends once again of your definition of protecting, patina in itself is still mild corrosion / oxidization like you say. I agree that patina itself will not eat away at your knife and will offer some level of protection, but I don't think patina will necessarily stop further rust forming, I had rust through a good solid patina. This probably wouldn't of occurred had I wiped the blade down properly, and oiled the pivot. Im not saying don't do it but you will need to maintain it..

phaust wrote:That's not what I said. I said it's not going to eat away your knife to make it unusable or unsafe, and I'm not talking about a 'stable' patina; I'm talking about any sort of rust. Rust is not the cancer of steel.

Thats not what I said either.. I didn't mean patina will eat your knife, just that it wont stop it rusting, pitting in the steel is not something Im interested in, especially for a kitchen knife, a scratch can be buffed out. Not trying to kick off a hornets nest I know people like their patina's just sharing my experience with a particular knife.
I think superblue is a great steel regardless, but I will be keeping a good polish on mine :)

w3tnz wrote:Well that depends once again of your definition of protecting, patina in itself is still mild corrosion / oxidization like you say. I agree that patina itself will not eat away at your knife and will offer some level of protection, but I don't think patina will necessarily stop further rust forming, I had rust through a good solid patina. This probably wouldn't of occurred had I wiped the blade down properly, and oiled the pivot. Im not saying don't do it but you will need to maintain it..

Agree, as I said, it's not 100% but it does substantially retard "rust". But, yes, you do have to still give it a modicum of care.

Ken

w3tnz wrote: I will be keeping a good polish on mine :)

Interestingly, I've been polishing the patina on my SB 3.5. It was almost black and very dull. No it's developing a shiney black finish I'm really liking. I'm only using leather. It's taking a long time

Ken

kbuzbee wrote:Interestingly, I've been polishing the patina on my SB 3.5. It was almost black and very dull. No it's developing a shiney black finish I'm really liking. I'm only using leather. It's taking a long time

Ken

Pictures!

Clip wrote:Pictures!

It's really hard to capture (for me, at least) but as you shift it, you can see the shine "evolving"



Ken

sal wrote:We've got a Caly 3 in-the-works being made from the balance of the SB left after the 3.5 run. Also with gray scales.

sal

Sounds great Sal! I can't tell you how much I regret missing the SB 3.5

Not legal where I live. Denmark.

sal wrote:We've got a Caly 3 in-the-works being made from the balance of the SB left after the 3.5 run. Also with gray scales.

sal

Can we hope for this year ?!

sal wrote:We've got a Caly 3 in-the-works being made from the balance of the SB left after the 3.5 run. Also with gray scales.

sal

Sal, that sounds awesome. Thank you!

I've had a Manix2 in CPM M4 which was nice and clean, but I'm not a fan of rust or patina.
No superblue for me.

the one I got is actually quite warped about the tip. It doesn't hurt my feelings, but it doesn't cut straight through fruit and other things. It appears that there may be some issues with the SB heat treatment in terms of built up stresses from grinding.

My reason would be no "tip down" carry, but I still had to buy one as a safe queen. After reading this thread I better oil that blade.

sal wrote:We've got a Caly 3 in-the-works being made from the balance of the SB left after the 3.5 run. Also with gray scales.

sal

are there any news or developements on this project? i will be definitly interested!
Is there any plans on this model to make it as a screwed construction?

thank you for answering,
utor