have any of your liner locks worn out?

[JNewell]

Unless you look closely and think about how they work, it's an easy mistake, and the similarity of the moving leaf/tab doesn't help make things clearer. The comp lock would probably get my vote for the most ingenious lock ever, followed by (avert your eyes) the Axis. But the comp lock is miles ahead. It is dead-nuts simple, dead-nuts strong, and dead-nuts reliable, all in a very compact package.

[chuck_roxas45]

Unless you look closely and think about how they work, it's an easy mistake, and the similarity of the moving leaf/tab doesn't help make things clearer. The comp lock would probably get my vote for the most ingenious lock ever, followed by (avert your eyes) the Axis. But the comp lock is miles ahead. It is dead-nuts simple, dead-nuts strong, and dead-nuts reliable, all in a very compact package.

I agree. I do think the tri-ad should be counted among those however.

[dcmartin2001]

I had the liner lock on my Mili wear out... I sent it to Spyderco and they replaced the worn parts, she's as good as new now. Locks up like a vault!

Here's what it looked like before

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/JVZiId0EGOo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[Left Hand Path]

Thank you for posting that video and your experience dcmartin.

[ChapmanPreferred]

I have not worn out any Spyderco liner locks.

[redyps04]

imo, the price of a military, sage 1 or sage 2 is big bucks, as are most spyderco knives. I would think buying a spyderco is buying quality. I shouldn't have to pay $4-500 dollars just to get a liner lock warrantied (considering i didn't do anything abusive to the knife in question,)

+1

[redyps04]

I had the liner lock on my Mili wear out... I sent it to Spyderco and they replaced the worn parts, she's as good as new now. Locks up like a vault!

So then they DO replace liner locks?!

[defenestrate]

A failing liner lock is a mechanical failure and safety issue. A worn detent is a wear issue. Not the same. A loose Mili that stays locked won't slip closed and take the end of a finger off.

[Mr Blonde]

All locks will wear with use, some faster than others which probably depends on many variables. In my experience Spyderco has been reasonable when it comes to determening a lock failure versus wear. I had a faulty lock on an old Police model over ten years ago - it was replaced with a new knife. I've had the liner on my 2000 Military move just a millimeter over the past ten years. And for a few of those years, it was almost the only knife I had. My first Chinese Folder had a liner that was too far over to the 'right' in my book. Luckily, it had an eccentric pivot pin I could adjust. I always liked that feature. But in short, no, I've never had a linerlock wear out on me.

Right now I'm steadily flicking open my new Des Horn folder for the past few weeks. The blade slams home on the stop pin after I flick it open with my left-middle finger. Most knifemakers advice against it as it accellerates wear, but it's the only way I can open this knife left-handed and I can be stubborn in some ways. The liner on this Taiwan made knife, hasn't moved an millimeter yet. The detent is still fine as well.

[dcmartin2001]

Thank you for posting that video and your experience dcmartin.

My pleasure Nick.... :D

[dcmartin2001]

So then they DO replace liner locks?!

From what I'm told it's taken on a case by case basis.

Neither the G-10 nor the blade were beat up and it was never taken apart.

I did mention to them (Spyderco) that I pulled the screws out 1 at a time to loctite them. There was never at anytime more than 1 screw out of the assembly. They said they would see what they could do and a week later my blade came back minty fresh! With Vault like lock up and as sharp as can be...

[redyps04]

A failing liner lock is a mechanical failure and safety issue. A worn detent is a wear issue. Not the same. A loose Mili that stays locked won't slip closed and take the end of a finger off.

I would argue that a worn detent could easily become a safety issue. After all, nobody wants a knife opening when you don't want it to. As for it being a wear issue, I highly doubt that's the case since my Sage 1 was only a few months old before the detent went caput. So I guess I'm still having trouble seeing the difference.

[v8r]

It's possible it will stop moving? Sometimes Ti RILs do tend to 'settle in' and then remain at the same engagement for a LONG time.

Or does it seem to be steadily/rapidly wearing more and more?

It seems like it keeps moving. It hasn't really taken a set like my other Millie's ( I have owned 4 total). There must have been a reason they started putting the steel inserts on the newer ones ?

[Left Hand Path]

That is interesting to hear v8r. I bet you are right.

I am curious what the most durable lock-type is in terms of longevity under normal use. I would guess the lockback, but I don't know? Has Sal ever mentioned any testing in this regard?

[RoBoTech]

I know you said Spyderco, but i've only ever had a Gerber wear out. It's a frame lock and the tab is all the way over against the other handle scale and it has a lot of up and down blade play. I really don't see what could be done to fix it..it's just an area that wears over time. It still locks up and i don't think it could fail but it is annoying.

I do have a little trick to get a few more years out of a S&W revolver cylinder pawl. It could work for a minor worn liner lock.
Do this at your own risk as I have never done this on a knife, only on S&W revolvers.
I think this can be done on a liner IF it is removable as a single piece.
Some have a ball detent. Don't fool with that and stay away from it. Be watching to see if it falls out.
Take the liner and lay it flat side down on an anvil. Then take a good size FLAT punch (1/4") and use it and a mallet to smack the liner close to the end of the locking side, as close to the blade as possible. Do NOT do this any BEHIND the 1st screw hole as this will lengthen the liner between holes. Not good. Only near as possible to the blade.
Again, be careful to not hit any ball, or partly OFF the very end of the lock where it meets the blade.
Tap on this several times (actually, you probably need to hit it pretty hard). This will lengthen the liner. BUT it will also thin the liner, so this can probably only be done once before it wears again. But, being steel (or TI), you should get a lot of locks out of it.
You may not get it back to stock, but may be able to get a working, tight knife. And it should compensate for a worn blade, for a while.
Again, I can't guarantee that it will work, but if it works on other steel parts, why not....?
It would not be a permanent fix, at any rate, just a life extender.
IF you end up with some rough spots on the side of the liner, just dress it with a file. It wont be noticeable on most liner locks, anyway. But DON'T dress the place where the liner presses on the blade. This would be counter productive.
Maybe I am making a mistake here, but I won't believe it until it gets tried, and fails.
And if I ever get a lock past 50% lockup, I will do this myself.

[Pneumothorax]

My circa 1991 Almite Cricket (gin-1) has the liner going all the way to the other side and has probably about 1/2mm of space btwn liner and blade. I never noticed this, but it was likely always there. I did not use the knife enough to cause the wear. Of course, I never would have noticed it unless I joined the forum and gotten educated on all things Spyderco.

[JNewell]

Considering that most problems of this sort can be fixed with an oversize stop pin, this approach would be tried only when every other alternative has been explored and exhausted. One of the first principles of gunsmithing is always start with the cheapest part. Stretching the lockbar is starting at the other end of the spectrum.

I do have a little trick to get a few more years out of a S&W revolver cylinder pawl. It could work for a minor worn liner lock.
Do this at your own risk as I have never done this on a knife, only on S&W revolvers.
I think this can be done on a liner IF it is removable as a single piece.
Some have a ball detent. Don't fool with that and stay away from it. Be watching to see if it falls out.
Take the liner and lay it flat side down on an anvil. Then take a good size FLAT punch (1/4") and use it and a mallet to smack the liner close to the end of the locking side, as close to the blade as possible. Do NOT do this any BEHIND the 1st screw hole as this will lengthen the liner between holes. Not good. Only near as possible to the blade.
Again, be careful to not hit any ball, or partly OFF the very end of the lock where it meets the blade.
Tap on this several times (actually, you probably need to hit it pretty hard). This will lengthen the liner. BUT it will also thin the liner, so this can probably only be done once before it wears again. But, being steel (or TI), you should get a lot of locks out of it.
You may not get it back to stock, but may be able to get a working, tight knife. And it should compensate for a worn blade, for a while.
Again, I can't guarantee that it will work, but if it works on other steel parts, why not....?
It would not be a permanent fix, at any rate, just a life extender.
IF you end up with some rough spots on the side of the liner, just dress it with a file. It wont be noticeable on most liner locks, anyway. But DON'T dress the place where the liner presses on the blade. This would be counter productive.
Maybe I am making a mistake here, but I won't believe it until it gets tried, and fails.
And if I ever get a lock past 50% lockup, I will do this myself.

[RoBoTech]

You have your way, I have mine.
And it darned sure doesn't make my way wrong.
So let's don't go there. It won't end well.
The only real PERMANENT solution is to spend the 20-30 $ and send it back to Spyderco. If it's warranty, you only lose shipping to Spyderco. If it's wear you pay 20.00 and the shipping back.
As I said, I don't even know if this would work, so I won't argue about it.

[Bluntrauma]

I only have one Spyderco that has a lock problem. It is the old FRN Cricket. The pin has loosened and the liner goes all the way to the other side and into the gap. The knife is unusable. I have thought of sending it in but I know if it can't be fixed, it can't be replaced. I assume that is why Spyderco got away from that particular knife. I still like it though. Maybe someday I'll get brave and try to peen it and see if I can tighten it up.

[spydutch]

A few years ago I got gifted a Boker Trance/CE from one of my great cyber/Spyder buddies Daywalker to try out.

For a good year I used it at my work.
It got covered in ink and solvents.
And what I normally don't do, I flicked the **** out of that knife.

After that year it got a bit of side to side play, but the liner hasn't moved a hair.

Neither has my old CPMS30V Military/SE or my Cricket.
Haven't been using them as hard though, but I trust them 100% :)