Spyderco Forums

True, although to some extent true only if the other steel is at the opposite end of the rust resistance spectrum. But I do think a lot of folks, even those not "needing" H-1 except perhaps on rare occasions, would buy it in what they consider "the right knife". Thus the requests for H-1 versions of just about every model Spyderco makes or has made in the last seven years. In other words, for most folks, it takes something beyond "total rust resistance may come in handy some day" to make them buy a knife.

To be honest, where H-1 is concerned, the only thing I find surprising is that, after all the years the Atlantic Salt has been on the market, the C14 Rescue is still in the lineup.

I bought a Salt 1 SE about 4 years ago. I carry it daily and work as a landscaper. I find the H1 to be very durable. Maybe it is the SE but I only sharpen it about once a month. With it I cut sod, small branches, roots, dig weeds out of the ground, cut plastic straps, hemp, nylon and all manor of plastic bags.
No controversy here. H1 works like a charm for me.

&quot wrote:I bought a Salt 1 SE about 4 years ago. I carry it daily and work as a landscaper. I find the H1 to be very durable. Maybe it is the SE but I only sharpen it about once a month. With it I cut sod, small branches, roots, dig weeds out of the ground, cut plastic straps, hemp, nylon and all manor of plastic bags.
No controversy here. H1 works like a charm for me.

I have a PE Aqua Salt that I use for yard work, so it sees the same type of stuff, but a lot less. I find the edge takes a beating and needs re-sharpening after the work is done.

However, to be fair to the steel, the Aqua Salt sheath rubs the edge and dulls it when clean. Add dirt to the mix, and the sheath may as well be lined with sandpaper.

Joe Internet wrote:I have a PE Aqua Salt that I use for yard work, so it sees the same type of stuff, but a lot less. I find the edge takes a beating and needs re-sharpening after the work is done.

However, to be fair to the steel, the Aqua Salt sheath rubs the edge and dulls it when clean. Add dirt to the mix, and the sheath may as well be lined with sandpaper.

I have the same issue with the Aqua Salt, wish I'd gotten it in SE since the problem would be less then.

Sverre

Now have mostly Spyderco blades.

Hopefully never use:
Mule #5 in each vehicle emergency kits
Byrd SE tied to harness in plane
Corrosion not an issue as lightly cosmolined

Regular use (generally abusive)
Pacific Salt PE
Ladybug Salt PE - Keyring
Ladybug salt SE - lying around garden

Regarding the hollow grind/FFG issue 5 min with 80# abrasive will not turn a hollow grind into a FFG bit will knock the edge off a hollow grind to give maybe 70% of FFG feel

Re the metallurgy stuff, have a 40 yo degree in the subject and while myself and mates don't work in this area (physical) we want to know more about this HI stuff - the hardness, tensile and elongation from sacrifice of a ladybug (difficult to get virgins these days) to the metallurgy gods show a few advances even without the corrosion advantages.

Jay_Ev wrote:I have read numerous threads regarding H1 steel and "work hardening". Some people believe it's a bunch of nonsense & BS and others insist their H1 knives become sharper with use. I will keep looking for the threads, I know they exist, just not having any luck finding them.

Work hardening involves plastic deformation of the material. Sharpening the knife is just stock removal, therefore - technically speaking - it is not work hardening.

I like H1 for what it was made for. Marine environments, no maintenance except for bumping the sand out of the pivot. I still have an older Salt 1 without the H1 big logo. It has a nice convex starting to go on the edge. I dont use it on the farm because the edge retention does not work for me in that environment. I am trying some D2 and hopefully some 1095 in future for better strength in edge retention (also putting much finer edge on those). S30V, VG10, N690 Bohler and 154CM have all been good and adequate/ Just looking for something else.

The only problem I have is I dont have H1 in a SE!!!

dialex wrote:Work hardening involves plastic deformation of the material. Sharpening the knife is just stock removal, therefore - technically speaking - it is not work hardening.

Stock removal via Electro Chemical Machining or Electro Discharge Machining does not involve plastic deformation.

Stock removal via grinding does involve plastic deformation to the failure point as each bit of stock removed is dragged along and away by an abrasive particle.

http://www.google.com.au/search?q=grind ... afe=images