Show your mods!

[Guts]

Got around to modding my Millie 1 to accept the ubiquitous spoon clip in my preferred orientation.

[Jeb]

Nice looking work there. You install a rivet type nut there or what you got there?

[Manixguy@1994]

Got around to modding my Millie 1 to accept the ubiquitous spoon clip in my preferred orientation.

Looks great Guts . Did removal effect pivot area removing tip down ? MG2

[Guts]

Nice looking work there. You install a rivet type nut there or what you got there?

They're just threaded inserts called "E-Z Lok". Another member on here (can't remember who unfortunately) told me about them awhile back when he modded his Millie 1, but I hadn't gotten around to installing them myself until now. They expand outward a bit to get tighter when you install the screws which is nice, so we'll see how it holds up. I don't expect any issues though.

Looks great Guts . Did removal effect pivot area removing tip down ? MG2

Shouldn't have affected anything at the pivot area. Still works as normal so no issues there. I don't generally carry in my rear pocket which the standard Millie 1 clip position seems more appropriate for, but at least I can still go back to the original clip if I felt like it. At worst I'd just have to buy a new scale if there was an issue.

[Manixguy@1994]

Nice looking work there. You install a rivet type nut there or what you got there?

They're just threaded inserts called "E-Z Lok". Another member on here (can't remember who unfortunately) told me about them awhile back when he modded his Millie 1, but I hadn't gotten around to installing them myself until now. They expand outward a bit to get tighter when you install the screws which is nice, so we'll see how it holds up. I don't expect any issues though.

Looks great Guts . Did removal effect pivot area removing tip down ? MG2

Shouldn't have affected anything at the pivot area. Still works as normal so no issues there. I don't generally carry in my rear pocket which the standard Millie 1 clip position seems more appropriate for, but at least I can still go back to the original clip if I felt like it. At worst I'd just have to buy a new scale if there was an issue.

Thanks much . Member STR did a lefty conversion for me on the first Military CF years ago using his custom clip and clip screws were screwed into a plate inside of scales . He was concerned the clip at top by pivot if removed would possibly cause an issue so cut clip at base . I later purchased another clip if I wanted to change it back to righty . I think I have a picture posted on this thread somewhere . This looks much cleaner . Great idea . Dan

[Guts]

Thanks much . Member STR did a lefty conversion for me on the first Military CF years ago using his custom clip and clip screws were screwed into a plate inside of scales . He was concerned the clip at top by pivot if removed would possibly cause an issue so cut clip at base . I later purchased another clip if I wanted to change it back to righty . I think I have a picture posted on this thread somewhere . This looks much cleaner . Great idea . Dan

I just eyeballed the clip location straight from my Millie 2 and made sure before I drilled the scales that the holes would clear the lanyard tube. A tiny bit of the inserts do stick out on the inside but won't cause any issues unless your blade is horribly off center. I suppose you could also file them flush but I didn't see a need to on my example. If you try it out, make sure to disassemble the knife first and install them from the inside out of the scale with the non-knurled portion of the insert going in first. I may or may not have installed them backwards the first time in my haste to get it done

[Jeb]

I have used some stainless versions that was a 1/4"-20 thread size that work just the same as these. They require a special tool to expand them that I ended up building my own.

These was called a rivet nut and didn't have the cut like these you have, they make them in about any size you can pay for lol. All different types of metal too, aluminum, stainless or carbon steels.

They work awesome in the right places. These little guys you used here on the scales is the perfect example of the place they really would work great.

Thanks for sharing man it looks awesome...

[Jeb]

Just got a new Manix2XL in the mail. This knife sports black G10 scales and S30V steel. I have not even honed it yet, but it did get the OEM ball cage and spring replaced with after market green Flytanium, I did use the oem steel ball. Have a look see...

[Jeb]

I modified my Smock today. After a reading and posting about the new all blacked out version soon to hit.

I cut one full wire wrap off, of the really small ball detent spring, ⁰that keeps the blade held closed. This really was needed to help the flipping open of the blade. Huge improvement...

This is a really small and short spring and to cut one full coil wrap of the wire is tight. Then getting the little ball bearing to stay in place while I reassembled the knife I used some lightweight assembly Grease, that is used to hold needle bearings in place and that is quickly melted away.

Then, I increase the small tight well refined countersink area around the blade lock release button. I used a Haas 120 degree countersink bit to achieve this.

Not the best pix of this as I am using a old smartphone at that, but if you look close you can see the changes made.

First pic is of the more refined oem setup for the blade release button. After I countersunk it, it does take on a more tacky look, but was my easiest option to improve the blade release.

I could have tig on top of the button to add the extra little length, then sand and polish that all back out, well this was the option I ran with.

[Manixguy@1994]

Jeb , constantly amazed by your mods ! You are a busy guy . Dan

[Jeb]

It has been a busy day around here for sure. That little spring for the felt detent, ball bearing when the knife is closed and opened was the tricky part.

That spring is small diameter but it's also a short sucker lol. Just holding it to cut one wire wrap off the spring and then close and sand the end without losing it was the tricky part lol. Don't have any extras around here lol. My eyes aren't what they use to be either lol.

Countersinking the release button was not so bad with the different Haas bits I have to choose from, these bits will cut just about anything but masonry lol. The 120 degree bit was perfect...

So I measured out just enough as to not get off the bottom edge of the knife in its beveled edge. I was even willing to do an offset countersink if more was going to be needed. That would have really been tacky.

But it was perfect to completely release the blade and get enough of the ball bearing on the lockbar free of all friction if pushed in naturally and not having to consciously smash the heck out of it, ever time I wanted to release the blade. That was my issue with this button release.

I know this mod looks really tacky and I should have optioned to tig the end of the button with more stainless, which I can easily do, it would have took the rest of the day to sand it down and polished it lol.

So being me and mine, I did it this way instead. I felt confident that it would give me just that little more button travel to get the blade lockbar drag off the tang and free up the blade... I just wanted to be able to clutch this blade and it drop free and clear.

Heck I figure most guys just close the blade with their other hand or against their plants leg, little bit of drag for that is fine. Me, I setup everyone of my knifes to open and close one handed, and I mean drop closed. I just prefer them like that. All of mine are setup like this.

I give a guy one of my knifes I make a point to show them too lol, they screw up and release the blade lock and have hand in the wrong place, you simply get cut...
You hold my knife with a full hand grip on the scales, you never have a problem. It's not for everyone but for me and my OCD, it's the only way lol.

This Smock now really does rock though, jimo. Now if they would make it in XL size, this little monster could support a 5" blade really easy, if not that; one the size of the Police4 anyway...

Even if we were limited to S30V steel, but if they was to make this Smock XL and something like a S110V or Rex121, Carbon Fiber scales, this would be a 500 dollar knife I would have to have lol.

With the killer blade bearings and how it's made, this is one you don't use in the dirt. That is the reason I carry as many different blades on me anyway. They all have a purpose. I always seem to get into everything too...
Thanks for looking at my modified Smock too, fellows.

[Jeb]

Oh no, I just found the next place on my Smock to modify...
I think it needs some jimping on the Flipper tab for your forefinger to grap. You know some teeth. That would have been really cool if I would have thought about that while my knife was already apart earlier today lol

[SpeedHoles]

I modified my Smock today. After a reading and posting about the new all blacked out version soon to hit.

I cut one full wire wrap off, of the really small ball detent spring, ⁰that keeps the blade held closed. This really was needed to help the flipping open of the blade. Huge improvement...

This is a really small and short spring and to cut one full coil wrap of the wire is tight. Then getting the little ball bearing to stay in place while I reassembled the knife I used some lightweight assembly Grease, that is used to hold needle bearings in place and that is quickly melted away.

Then, I increase the small tight well refined countersink area around the blade lock release button. I used a Haas 120 degree countersink bit to achieve this.

Not the best pix of this as I am using a old smartphone at that, but if you look close you can see the changes made.

First pic is of the more refined oem setup for the blade release button. After I countersunk it, it does take on a more tacky look, but was my easiest option to improve the blade release.

I could have tig on top of the button to add the extra little length, then sand and polish that all back out, well this was the option I ran with.

Just be aware by making the detent weaker it may be more prone to open in your pocket unintentionally.

And despite maybe what you're thinking, a stronger detent typically makes for a snappier flipper. I'm not sure how many flippers you've had prior, but it is noticeable.
The preload tension from your finger against the detent is what builds up the flip release. Now it'll just be relying more on simple gravity and momentum rather than preload before it overcomes the detent and flies open.

[Jeb]

Your absolutely correct about the preload. I understood that before ever proceeding to mutate my Smock. I was already for the defense if I failed and ruined it.

I would have simply put it in a box for parts and ordered another and started phase II lol. Just more determined than ever lol.

The other thing a person needs to do before taking on an unknown here is be willing to fail and write that off to learning and start over. Which at my age and all the really fubarb'd stuff I made a living building, fixing or reworking to make work as intended, I am pretty confident in what I take on.

My biggest issue I really have right now is not having a good all white "clean room", from which to do these small tedious little projects.

Does everything work out, no; not even close lol. Fail and move on and learn from those. The wind is supposed to blow really bad here tomorrow and if it does, I may just take on chewing some jimping in the finger flip ramp, because the Smock still has more than enough tension that it could benefit from the teeth.

These will looked chewed in and nothing like the well refined ones I have grown to love on all my other Spyderco knives, but they will provide some much needed traction...

So there is still a chance I lose the ball that sits on top of the small detent pressure spring and if so it could still end up in a box for parts lol...

[SpeedHoles]

Good attitude about it, experience is the best educator.

[Jeb]

Yes sir it is in my opinion, sometimes really expensive too, just got to capture those mistakes made and move forward though lol...

[Jeb]

Burning the midnight oil so to say, I cut a tooth that grabs the finger, pulling the blade open and a tooth to help push it closed if need be.

The knife is setup to close, so shouldn't need that tooth, but it made it more uniform having both.

Not a file one that I have and trust me I have some files, but nothing I had will even begin to cut a tooth.

So a .060" cut off disc on a cordless 20 volt Dewalt grinder cut the two teeth. Not perfect, just chewed in well enough your finger grabs the tab to flip open or to finish the closing.

They should have done this and charged us another 50 bucks for the Smock. It's well worth it jimo. They belong there just like the three they did cut in the top of the spine of the blade.

Wish mine looked as refined as theirs but hey I did these in the dark of night with a Streamlight headlamp and a handheld grinder lol. Chewing teeth. Heck my files won't even clean the teeth up any either.

[Drubieg]

[Jeb]

New scales I got off ebay, came from overseas, just got them in and put them on. They fit good and feel great in my paw... I will tack up the rest of the pix on my thread, so as not so clog up the space here too.

Edit: Just noticed this dealer making these Micarta scales is from Kivi Ukraine and goes by Micartascales all one word on ebay if interested.

These are really good feeling Micarta scales in the paw and they look really good to me anyway lol.

[Manixguy@1994]

New scales I got off ebay, came from overseas, just got them in and put them on. They fit good and feel great in my paw... I will tack up the rest of the pix on my thread, so as not so clog up the space here too.

Very nice Jeb . I plan a Endura mod sometime this year . Sooner or later I’m going to talk you into an outdoor shot ! Dan