Spyderco Forums

Got mine yesterday. Went with the serrated sheepsfoot. I was originally planning on getting it in plain edge, but then I read Sal's comment about plain edge LC200N doing about 30% better than H1 on CATRA testing, but 4.8 times better in SE than in PE. Glad I did -- not only do I love me some flat ground serrations, I swear the SE Caribbean is ground even more acutely than the SE Delica wharncliffe. F&F is excellent, opening/closing is smooth, and the detent is strong enough to keep the knife from being shaken open. Not as strong as on the Maxamet PM2, but about the same as on the Ouroboros and my old, original, Paramilitary.

In case you haven't guessed by this point, yeah I like this knife. Definitely a winner in my books.

Watching this thread with interest!

Received mine today. First impression are that it is better than i thought it would be. The color really is not so bad as many think it is. The yellow is not as bright as shown in the Spyderco catalog. Due to this it's not as hornet/bee looking. I kinda like it now. People really should see it in real life. The milled G10 is nice and grippy to hold. But the surface itself is smooth so it is easy on your pocket. Unlike your regular flat peel ply G10 knives.

The knife handle fits the hand really nicely. Plenty of room due to the lack of a finger choil. It is a big knife and blade, but really not that much bigger than your standard PM2 (see pic). The blade shape is also very good. Due to the sheepsfoot shape the tip is much stronger, but the edge is still very thin and slicey. I measured the thickness behind the edge at around 0.020", the same as my Rex 45 PM2.

The lock bar spring tension is much higher than on my PM2. This is the only negative thing i found on this knife. It is so strong that it hurts your finger if you want to keep it pressed to the side. But even with the higher tension on the lock bar this knife is easier to open with the inertia technique than my PM2. Not sure why this is. Maybe the ceramic detent ball and a slightly heavier blade. Nonetheless the blade won't open with just normal shaking. So no problem there. The action was also a bit stiff when i got it, but after tweaking the pivot screw a tiny bit it is now free dropping. And blade centering was perfect. Taichung makes great knives but they need to improve on their compression lock tuning. The best are still from Golden.

With the materials used, milled G10, nested liners with no holes for dust to gather etc. this knife is a much better value than your standard PM2 sprint run with improved steel. I have to say this is a real gem that Sal designed. A real passion project. Thanks!

Hi Rutger,

Thanx much for the kind comments.

sal

After some had made some comparisons to the d'allara - the carribean seems to show some inspiration from it, albeit a bit larger?

The sheepsfoot Carribean model reminds me of the original Jumpmaster, and I just love the edge coming all the way to the handle so stuff doesn’t snag there. PE or SE? Decisions, decisions.

Hmm, I can't say I see similarities between those two, but I'm sure they are both great knives.

cabfrank wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 24, 2018 11:20 pm

Hmm, I can't say I see similarities between those two, but I'm sure they are both great knives.

I'm still waiting for these to hit Canada. I really like the look of the SE sheepsfoot design, I think I'll be picking one up when (if) they get here...

The handle shape is definitely more similar than I thought.

If I understand the concept correctly, galvanic corrosion occurs when one metal is electrically in contact with another in the presence of an electrolyte (salt for example).

The problem is amplified when the metals have a dissimilar anodic index numbers.

This means you wouldn't want titanium or copper in direct contact with steel, but rather steel in contact with steel.

I do not see how the coating would be a good idea, as galvanic coupling only occurs at points where an electrolyte contact can be made - i.e. bearing surfaces, etc. Once the coating is worn through from the friction of opening a knife, or tightening a screw, the relatively small exposed surface area will only increase the rate of corrosion further due to less surface area on whichever metal is less noble.

Hi Nathanours,

That was also our understanding. But we're learning of new problems happening with hardware. Perhaps screwed into or next to the liner. Coating seems to curb that.

sal

My PE leaf-bladed Caribbean has been my main one-hand-opening EDC for the past months since I got it. I haven't gone out on the water with it, but IMO it makes a GREAT using folder.

Jim

Just make all the hardware out of LC200N. I'm committed to buying any model in this steel.

I really love this steel. I just ran the Caribbean over my fine stones for less than 5 minutes and it is now a lightsaber!

Was hoping to share a pic of my Rit dyed Caribbean from my phones image gallery. When I try to attach a file, I get an error message saying file is to large. I'm not on any of the social media. Any suggestions?

Download an image resizer app. I'm not sure what the maximum size allowed is, but if you make your image no larger than 1200 x 1200 you should be okay.

SaltSerious wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 01, 2018 8:30 am

Was hoping to share a pic of my Rit dyed Caribbean from my phones image gallery. When I try to attach a file, I get an error message saying file is to large. I'm not on any of the social media. Any suggestions?

Or use imgBB or Imgur, that's what I do. It will give you a BB code to copy, paste it in here and voilà!

I love seeing Caribbeans, more people need to have this knife.

I'll give that a shot thanks.