I expected the worst and was pleasantly surprised. Aside from lowish corrosion resistance it has been a joy to use and sharpen. 15V and MagnaCut are my two biggest wish list steels for a Bodacious.
I've done a few dozen different tests across several samples of 15V. Several of em went against the grain of recommended practices by including ceramic abrasives. The goal was to see how the edge declined in comparison to a diamond stone, and a diamond strop. There's too much variability in this style of testing, therefore the pattern not the percentages should be observed. Off hand it scored roughly cruwear numbers when I used the brown spyderco benchstone to refine the apex from 400 grit. A diamond loaded strop did much better when it was substituted for the ceramic benchstone.
I've been satisfied with 15V. Has great edge stability, very easy to deburr, and it's predictable gradual edge decline are the standout attributes I've noticed. I'm not picking up any of the newest run, but I assume the pattern is still similar from the first run to the second.
I wanted to talk about this a little bit too, because I remember this being something I experimented with as well. I had similar experiences sharpening it with electroplated diamond plated (Atoma and DMT) as others, so not much I can add about that.
The way it responded to my Shapton Kuromaku 120 was quite interesting. The basic idea people had was that you would not be able to properly sharpen 15V on anything less than CBN, but I found the edge I got on this stone was sufficient, but the quirk was that it had a very high level of polish for the grit of that hone. It was a somewhat hazy mirror finish like one would get off if a 2000k grit of the same family of hones.
Now, I was told that such an edge will be fatigued because it will be the result of burnishing and not abrasion, so I am not necessarily saying it's not best to get the optimal abrasives, but I think it would be interesting to hear more about what type of non-CBN and non-diamond abrasives people have successfully sharpened on.
I have a really coarse SiC stone called a Baronyx Manticore that's a mix of 50/80 grit SiC particles. It is an absolute beast if a hone, and it's the only one I never tried to sharpen 15V, because I also have a 140 grit Aroma plate, but I have been curious to see how well it grinds the 15V a couple of times.
I mostly wonder about this because I don't really hear too much about field sharpening experiences with 15V. Though, I think that's likely because a lot more people have CBN and diamond field sharpeners if they take a 15V blade into that situation, if they expect even it's edge retention won't be enough anyway. But without imagining too many fanciful "wilderness survival" scenarios or something, I would be curious about improvised field sharpening jobs that people have done, or that could be done.
Re: Real World User Experience Sharpening CPM 15V
Posted: Wed Jan 08, 2025 9:50 am
by Steeltoez83
I normally use my 1k super vit diamond stone for all my cut testing. Once I got final edge retention numbers, I used a 400 grit diamond then a diamond loaded strop to see how it compared. Then I used a 400 diamond with an 800 grit king neo silicon carbide. Then I used a 400 grit diamond followed by the spyderco brown benchstone. And then I pulled out an arkansas stone to see how far 15V drifts away from its true potential after a proper 400 grit edge. I posted all my results/testing on IG for the kind folks who follow/appreciate my content.
The video I made discussed all the positives of what 15V is, but I still recommended seki k390 just bcuz of how many readily available options exist. The first run was selling out in record times, so availability was it's only detriment. I thought about a millie 2 might be good for me to compare both runs, however the model doesn't win me over how I wanted it to.
Sharpening wise, it's a breeze for me even with using non recommended materials. I didn't run bess numbers, just my usual pass/fail parameters. I'm done testing, so it's just a fun carry for me right now. I'm 99% sure triple B knows where my thoughts are about 15V. But he asked and I'm happy to oblige.
Re: Real World User Experience Sharpening CPM 15V
Posted: Wed Jan 08, 2025 1:57 pm
by ncrockclimb
This is such an awesome thread. I always enjoy these conversations about steels and sharpening.
I sharpened mine using Venev bonded diamond stones. I used the F80 stones to set the bevel at about 12dps, then finished on F150. It was not difficult to sharpen, and the resulting edge was SUPER toothy. The edge retention is amazing.
I have played with stopping with 16 and 4 micro CBN on leather. Unlike vg10, A2 or other steels with lesser edge retention, I have found that I can strop this back to being SUPER SHARP without losing all the “toothyness.” The edge does become somewhat less aggressive, but the smoothness that often results from stropping is much less apparent.
In short, I love this steel. I really hope we see a Manix LW and Native 5 in 15v.
I have only the 15V Shaman. I cut stuff with it and don't run the edge along cement curbs or punch it into oil drums to test it out Forged in Fire style. I also bought the CBN stones for my Sharpmaker along with it. Sharpening is uneventful.
Same, same and same
If anything I find it easier to sharpen than most other steels, in the same sort of ballpark as Cru-wear, K390 and Magnacut. I’d recommend it to people who are just beginning to sharpen their own knives as it is quite obvious when the sharpening strategy you are doing is or isn’t working.
Re: Real World User Experience Sharpening CPM 15V
Posted: Wed Jan 08, 2025 11:34 pm
by Pacu0420
When I first got the 15v ShamanI was expecting it to be a lot like Maxamet. I was pleasantly suprised to find it quite easy to sharpen. As in, it didn't take long to reprofile. Much faster than Maxamet. I use a fixed angle system with CBN stones and it took about an hour to do a reprofile. As opposed to Maxamet which really p#&*ed me off. Had to take a break and come back to it later. Lol!
When I first got the 15v Shaman was expecting it to be a lot like Maxamet. I was pleasantly suprised to find it quite easy to sharpen. As in, it didn't take long to reprofile. Much faster than Maxamet. I use a fixed angle system with CBN stones and it took about an hour to do a reprofile. As opposed to Maxamet which really p#&*ed me off. Had to take a break and come back to it later. Lol!
I have only the 15V Shaman. I cut stuff with it and don't run the edge along cement curbs or punch it into oil drums to test it out Forged in Fire style. I also bought the CBN stones for my Sharpmaker along with it. Sharpening is uneventful.
Same, same and same
If anything I find it easier to sharpen than most other steels, in the same sort of ballpark as Cru-wear, K390 and Magnacut. I’d recommend it to people who are just beginning to sharpen their own knives as it is quite obvious when the sharpening strategy you are doing is or isn’t working.
Wow I look forward to sharpening my PM3. I love how easy it is to get CRUWEAR razor sharp so I’m going to enjoy sharpening my newest knife when it needs it. Glad so much good advice has been posted on best ways to sharpen CPM 15V.
(EDIT: Perhaps not right on topic, cause this vid is not yet really about actual sharpening - but still interesting, I guess thus I won´t delete the post)
@Red Leader pointed me/us to a vid about REX 121 on the the youtube channel of
ericasedc and I found it really refreshing to watch one of the few "real" reviewers, she actually and obviously knows what she is talking about from real life experience.
Now here is another vid of hers about 15V (rather a first impression and also somewhat gets compared to REX121 and Maxamet) and I found it interesting too and worth sharing. Above my pay grade to actually join that discussion, but I can follow and enjoy it.
I'm confused. In her previous video about REX121, she said it was the easiest steel she's ever sharpened and took an incredible edge. Now she's saying you need to use 600 grit diamond or higher because it microchips significantly with lower grits.
I'm guessing the comment had more to do with the sharpening comparison between this knife and softer steels that are much harder to sharpen due to folding and burring up and such. The microchipping may have just been a learning thing. What I heard her say was that it was easy, but particular as well. If 15V is less particular, that much more of a treat.
Re: Real World User Experience Sharpening CPM 15V
Posted: Wed Jan 15, 2025 4:13 pm
by Deadboxhero
Well, I can't thank all of you enough for sharing all of your experiences using the BBB CPM 15V.
Over the past two years I've noticed there's a lot of strong opinions and misconceptions from folks that haven't even experienced it.
Well, I think it's really cool when people get their hands on it to see firsthand what it's about.
For those folks that are new to the knife world.
I think it's important to point out how unique a thread like this is in the folding knife world.
We usually see these conversations with kitchen knife folks but it's very rare with folding knife people.
Usually folding knife folks don't actually get this deep into the weeds when it comes to sharing about sharpening and using the knife and for some, it's of little to no interest which is fine.
But I feel 15V users generally speaking are quite unique.
15V folks are very interested in using and sharpening their knives, testing out different edges, angles and abrasives.
It's a really cool crowd; It's my favorite part of the community.
Re: Real World User Experience Sharpening CPM 15V
Posted: Wed Jan 15, 2025 4:17 pm
by Danke
I produce my best misconceptions when I've never experienced the subject in person.
Well, I can't thank all of you enough for sharing all of your experiences using the BBB CPM 15V.
Over the past two years I've noticed there's a lot of strong opinions and misconceptions from folks that haven't even experienced it.
Well, I think it's really cool when people get their hands on it to see firsthand what it's about.
For those folks that are new to the knife world.
I think it's important to point out how unique a thread like this is in the folding knife world.
We usually see these conversations with kitchen knife folks but it's very rare with folding knife people.
Usually folding knife folks don't actually get this deep into the weeds when it comes to sharing about sharpening and using the knife and for some, it's of little to no interest which is fine.
But I feel 15V users generally speaking are quite unique.
15V folks are very interested in using and sharpening their knives, testing out different edges, angles and abrasives.
It's a really cool crowd; It's my favorite part of the community.
Thanks for starting and facilitating these conversations. I have learned so much from you and the other members posting in these threads. Keep up the good work.
Well, I can't thank all of you enough for sharing all of your experiences using the BBB CPM 15V.
Over the past two years I've noticed there's a lot of strong opinions and misconceptions from folks that haven't even experienced it.
Well, I think it's really cool when people get their hands on it to see firsthand what it's about.
For those folks that are new to the knife world.
I think it's important to point out how unique a thread like this is in the folding knife world.
We usually see these conversations with kitchen knife folks but it's very rare with folding knife people.
Usually folding knife folks don't actually get this deep into the weeds when it comes to sharing about sharpening and using the knife and for some, it's of little to no interest which is fine.
But I feel 15V users generally speaking are quite unique.
15V folks are very interested in using and sharpening their knives, testing out different edges, angles and abrasives.
It's a really cool crowd; It's my favorite part of the community.
Thanks for starting and facilitating these conversations. I have learned so much from you and the other members posting in these threads. Keep up the good work.
Glad to hear.
Re: Real World User Experience Sharpening CPM 15V
Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2025 3:57 pm
by hambone56rx
@deadboxhero I have the double sided CBN stone from Spyderco and their Medium and UltraFine Bench stone. I hear a lot of people talking about using diamond or CBN stones. And I read where you feel like the edge loses its bite if the stone is softer than the carbides.
Do you think the Medium and Fine stones would do ok with 15V? Or would I need to upgrade to a diamond stone sir? So far this set up seems to do well with k390.
Thanks in advance and looking forward to playing with this steel!
@deadboxhero I have the double sided CBN stone from Spyderco and their Medium and UltraFine Bench stone. I hear a lot of people talking about using diamond or CBN stones. And I read where you feel like the edge loses its bite if the stone is softer than the carbides.
Do you think the Medium and Fine stones would do ok with 15V? Or would I need to upgrade to a diamond stone sir? So far this set up seems to do well with k390.
Thanks in advance and looking forward to playing with this steel!
Hamilton
Thanks for asking this, it is exactly the question I came here to ask. I'll add, I have the Brown, White, and Diamond rods. Noy sure if the Diamond are electro plated or not. So, wondering if the CBN are needed? I've noted most, like 98% of these posts, are from folk that like to freehand sharpen on stones. Me, I rely on my sharpmaker. Before anyone gives me grief, I've ony had my FRN Para 3 since Saturday. Don't anticipate "NEEDING" to sharpen it for some time, so I'm prepping.
@deadboxhero I have the double sided CBN stone from Spyderco and their Medium and UltraFine Bench stone. I hear a lot of people talking about using diamond or CBN stones. And I read where you feel like the edge loses its bite if the stone is softer than the carbides.
Do you think the Medium and Fine stones would do ok with 15V? Or would I need to upgrade to a diamond stone sir? So far this set up seems to do well with k390.
Thanks in advance and looking forward to playing with this steel!
Hamilton
Thanks for asking this, it is exactly the question I came here to ask. I'll add, I have the Brown, White, and Diamond rods. Noy sure if the Diamond are electro plated or not. So, wondering if the CBN are needed? I've noted most, like 98% of these posts, are from folk that like to freehand sharpen on stones. Me, I rely on my sharpmaker. Before anyone gives me grief, I've ony had my FRN Para 3 since Saturday. Don't anticipate "NEEDING" to sharpen it for some time, so I'm prepping.
The diamond rods for the Sharpmaker are plated. Not a deal killer but they just won't be as uniform or last as long as a bonded sharpening stone. The plated rods will work just fine for a long time, just use very light pressure and let the diammons do the work. I have only recently got my first bonded stone and I have been sharpening knives for close to 40 years.
Diamond vs CBN - Both are very hard and will sharpen any modern steel well. I would argue most people could not tell the difference. From what I have gathered Diamond is slightly harder than CBN, no major impact. CBN tends to be less prone to damage while sharpening than diamond, not a huge deal just use light pressure and they will both last.
Freehand vs Guided vs "Semi" guide like the Sharpmaker - USE WHATEVER WORKS FOR YOU. For 30 years I have done free hand, I am pretty good at it but until a few years ago I did not realize how much steel I was actually taking off each sharpening session. I got the Sharpmaker a few years ago and could not be happier because it just touches up the edge, taking only a bit of steel off but giving you a great edge.
I think of knife edge maintenance in three stages:
1. Chips, damage, extremely dull, reprofile = Freehand or Guide Sytems like KME
2. Dull but still cuts, no major damage = Sharpmaker
3. Lost some bite but still fairly sharp = Stropping with a diamond compound.
The main take away is with your Brown, White, and Diamond rods for the Sharpmaker you can maintain the edge on 15v or any steel for that matter. Just don't it get too dull, and you may have issues if you start chipping the steel in your use case. If you do start to notice some slight damage to the edge you can always put a 20dps micro bevel on the knife with the Sharpmaker to help minimize future damage.
I will also add Sal's recommendation, get a 10x-20x loop to view your edge. They are cheap but can really help see what is happening while you sharpen.
Thanks for asking this, it is exactly the question I came here to ask. I'll add, I have the Brown, White, and Diamond rods. Noy sure if the Diamond are electro plated or not. So, wondering if the CBN are needed? I've noted most, like 98% of these posts, are from folk that like to freehand sharpen on stones. Me, I rely on my sharpmaker. Before anyone gives me grief, I've ony had my FRN Para 3 since Saturday. Don't anticipate "NEEDING" to sharpen it for some time, so I'm prepping.
I'm one of those freehanders , though I started off with a Sharpmaker so I'm very familiar with it. Nothing wrong with it so don't feel bad. If anything the sharpmaker helped me on my journey to freehanding because it taught me to hold angles.
That said, with some rubber bands you can just attach a small diamond stone, something like a 6x1" stone from a guided sharpener for example, to the flat side of a sharpmaker rod. I'd recommend to use the diamond rod as the backer since those are made of metal. That way you have more grit options to work with rather than the Sharpmaker's sole ~40micron diamond rod (it is electroplated). Whether the ceramics are enough for 15V, I'll let more knowledgeable folks speak on that. But the way I see it, there's plenty of cheap diamond/cbn options out there which would work fine.
ETA: had to dig out my Sharpmaker from storage but here's what I'm talking about.
@deadboxhero I have the double sided CBN stone from Spyderco and their Medium and UltraFine Bench stone. I hear a lot of people talking about using diamond or CBN stones. And I read where you feel like the edge loses its bite if the stone is softer than the carbides.
Do you think the Medium and Fine stones would do ok with 15V? Or would I need to upgrade to a diamond stone sir? So far this set up seems to do well with k390.
Thanks in advance and looking forward to playing with this steel!
Hamilton
I believe you've answered your own questions before asking them. The truth is, there's no way to beat around this bush to get two-in-the-hand. If the abrasive is not hard enough to cut the carbide, you are not properly shaping your apex for maximal performance. There's no benefit in these super steels if you can't, or won't keep up with their demands. Kind of like filling up a Ferrari with regular unleaded gasoline, you're undermining and sacrificing the performance that you've paid for.
, though I started off with a Sharpmaker so I'm very familiar with it. Nothing wrong with it so don't feel bad. If anything the sharpmaker helped me on my journey to freehanding because it taught me to hold angles. 
