Thin Edge Preservation

[Strauss95]

Has anyone here done a regrind on a slow-speed or cooled belt grinder, rather than on stones? Isn't that how pro re-grinders and/or knife makers do it?

Yes, knife makers will use a belt sander when regrinding a knife. Most of the time they will remove the blade completely on a folding pocket knife and mount the blade into a hand held jig they use which helps hold a consistent angle when grinding. If they don't have an actively cooled sander, they keep a bucket of water close by dunking in often to keep the blade cool.

[Josh Crutchley]

I like to convex them to reduce the thickness behind the edge. Some are done freehand, some with the help of the Edge Pro and freehand.

I also have a factory second Maxamet PM2 that's been convexed. Still need to try a mirror polish.

[Bolster]

Has anyone here done a regrind on a slow-speed or cooled belt grinder, rather than on stones? Isn't that how pro re-grinders and/or knife makers do it?

Yes, knife makers will use a belt sander when regrinding a knife. Most of the time they will remove the blade completely on a folding pocket knife and mount the blade into a hand held jig they use which helps hold a consistent angle when grinding. If they don't have an actively cooled sander, they keep a bucket of water close by dunking in often to keep the blade cool.

I have often wondered about this jig. Was wondering if it was a magnetic chuck that could be set to a precise angle.

[Airlsee]

An angle cube and drill stop collar are absolutely necessary accessories for the Edge Pro if you're looking for accurate consistency.

[Coastal]

Another option is to get a knifemaker to regrind it.

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If you can do so without sacrificing a knife to learn if a maker is trustworthy. I'm not saying I've done that, it's that I'm scared to even try. Tom Krein and Shawn Houston are the only outstanding ones I know by name, and their books are closed.

It's too bad, because I have at least a dozen I'd like to eventually have reground. Harrumph.

[Airlsee]

It's too bad, because I have at least a dozen I'd like to eventually have reground. Harrumph.

Josh at Razor Edge Knives (REK)

ETA: Looks like he may not be taking regrinds anymore...Alex Steingraber has done good work for me in the past but he's not accepting regrinds either...bummer.

Brian (Transparent Knives) books are closed too...it's apparently a hard time for regrinds.

[Sharp24/7]

An angle cube and drill stop collar are absolutely necessary accessories for the Edge Pro if you're looking for accurate consistency.

Can you recommend a good angle cube? And, if it’s no trouble, explain what the stop collar is for? I get the impression you know the ins and out of the EP.

[Airlsee]

An angle cube and drill stop collar are absolutely necessary accessories for the Edge Pro if you're looking for accurate consistency.

Can you recommend a good angle cube? And, if it’s no trouble, explain what the stop collar is for? I get the impression you know the ins and out of the EP.

iGaging angle cube is the one I've had for 6+ years and works great (Qualilty Angle Cube)

The stop collar is to account for the wear/depth of your individual stones...each stone is going to wear differently and have a different height/depth so the stop collar accounts for that while sharpening, you set your stop collar and then adjust the guide rod to the height of each stone. (Stop Collar Guide Video)

[elena86]

How do you sharpen a convexed, zero grind, edge ?

[Airlsee]

Mouse pad, varying high grit wet/dry sand paper, trailing strokes and concentration...

*autobody sand paper

[Airlsee]

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[Brock O Lee]

How do you sharpen a convexed, zero grind, edge ?

Micro bevel!

[elena86]

How do you sharpen a convexed, zero grind, edge ?

Micro bevel!

You gotta be kidding me !

[Matus]

Has anyone here done a regrind on a slow-speed or cooled belt grinder, rather than on stones? Isn't that how pro re-grinders and/or knife makers do it?

Yes, knife makers will use a belt sander when regrinding a knife. Most of the time they will remove the blade completely on a folding pocket knife and mount the blade into a hand held jig they use which helps hold a consistent angle when grinding. If they don't have an actively cooled sander, they keep a bucket of water close by dunking in often to keep the blade cool.

I must add - the only way to keep the blade from overheating very close to the edge is to have a water spray on the belt. Just dipping the blade in a bucket of water is not enough once the edge gets really thin. And even with a water spray one can overheat the edge if the grinding (especially with higher grits) is done with too much pressure.

[billdoier72]

I use DMT plates to thin out the edge on steels that can handle such edges.

I just take my time.

I also use a micro bevel to increase said edge stability.

[ABX2011]

I've done a lot of manual regrinding. By that I mean pressing the primary bevel flat against the stone. Before that I used a 1X30 but my results were less consistent. Also the 1X30 gave me convexity when I prefer to maintain true flatness.
There are cheap diamond plates good for hogging steel. Then an Atoma 140 will give you better flatness and a uniform finish. From there you can move to a finer finish as desired.
Manual regrinding isn't for everyone as it's slow and can even tear up your fingers a bit. It's something I really enjoy.

[RyanY]

My only super blue knife is the black coated delica. I really want it to be a thin slicer but I am worried that if I put the edge back to 10dps then I will have a massive bevel that won’t look good with the TiCN coating. And then I can’t blend that bevel without removing the coating. Do I just need to buy the uncoated version?

I am also wondering if you guys see the biggest benefit in performance by having a more acute edge bevel or by just getting it thin behind that edge. For example, if you had to choose one, would you rather have a 15dps edge that is crazy thin behind the edge (like a regrind) or a factory behind the edge thickness reprofiled to 10dps?

[Matus]

My recommendation: get an uncoated version (maybe even a second hand one) of a model with some 'normal steel' like VG10 or so, and take it to a water sharpening stone(s) and play with the edge geometry and see what you like. That is the best way to experience how different geometry will cut / behave. The actual number of of edge bevel, at the end of the day is just that - a number.

[vivi]

My only super blue knife is the black coated delica. I really want it to be a thin slicer but I am worried that if I put the edge back to 10dps then I will have a massive bevel that won’t look good with the TiCN coating. And then I can’t blend that bevel without removing the coating. Do I just need to buy the uncoated version?

I am also wondering if you guys see the biggest benefit in performance by having a more acute edge bevel or by just getting it thin behind that edge. For example, if you had to choose one, would you rather have a 15dps edge that is crazy thin behind the edge (like a regrind) or a factory behind the edge thickness reprofiled to 10dps?

Big bevels looks fine with coated blades.



No need to blend them into the primary grind.

As to your second question, a very thinly ground knife with a tiny 15dps edge bevel will outcut a thickly ground knife with a 10dps bevel (like the Pacific Salt I posted). But it takes a lot more work and skill to properly do. I'm getting there with my sander but the type of edge I put on the pictured knife is good enough for a pocket knife for me.

Don't get me wrong, I love a knife with good geometry, but for breaking down boxes, opening packages and carving roasting sticks it's not the end all be all.

Now my work knives (chef).......that's where I start to really concern myself with geometry.

[RyanY]

Matus and Vivi, thanks for your replies. I have an uncoated vg10 delica that I think I will work on first. I really like the black coating on the super blue delica so I'll leave it alone. I might knock the edge back a bit though. It just seems like a waste to have a 15-degree edge bevel on a steel like super blue.

And Vivi that is helpful feedback about geometry. I'll try manually regrinding the VG10 thin but with a 15-degree edge and see how it does. I do have an uncoated rex45 native that would be hard enough for very thin angles if I decide I love it. I'm sure that one would take more time to grind down than the VG10 though

I want to buy another super blue delica uncoated while they are available but with a kid on the way my knife budget is limited, and I don't even have all the stones and stuff that I will need to work on the VG10 blade. I think the first step is to buy the stones/sandpaper I plan to use.

I've done a lot of manual regrinding. By that I mean pressing the primary bevel flat against the stone... There are cheap diamond plates good for hogging steel. Then an Atoma 140 will give you better flatness and a uniform finish. From there you can move to a finer finish as desired.
Manual regrinding isn't for everyone as it's slow and can even tear up your fingers a bit. It's something I really enjoy.

I guess this is what I plan to do to the VG10 delica. what cheap diamond plate would you recommend? what do you use after the Atoma 140? Any other lessons learned or tips are appreciated.