Spyderco Forums

Ranger_Ike wrote: ↑

Fri Feb 04, 2022 2:05 pm

Glad to help! Let us know what you do and how it works out for you.

Just ordered the Flytanium silver cage assembly from BHQ. Now the agonizing wait ....

Is it possible that the real issue is friction between the g10 and the cage rather than the spring?

I’ve added some lubricant where those meet and that makes a huge difference. My lightweight frcp one doesn’t have this issue. But nylon type stuff rubbing nylon tends to self lubricate as I understand it.

If the tolerances are tight enough, I can imagine a cage made with a slightly worn out mold plus random small variations in cnc machining g10 could stack to make the fit a touch too snug until the g10 wears out the cage a little on the snug bits.

Looking at my manix2 lw, it looks like the tolerances / clearance for sliding the cage is greater than or equal the screw holes, and since the latter will have at least one hole that’s closer to the mold gates where the glass filled abrasive molten plastic comes in, at least one screw should be failing some assembly qc process way before the resulting handle gets too snug.

At least that provides one mechanism for how it happens.


Or perhaps we’ve all forgotten to compare hand sizes, especially including thumb and ring finger lengths. I bet larger hands have an easier time with the cage actuation

*bump* Firstly, ignore the messages telling you to just live with it. Honestly I don't understand those replies, I see them in guitar forums too, they seem to be there more for the benefit of those leaving them for the the OP posing the question. "Well I have no problem with the lock, if you can't unlock it, then it must be you…,"
No, its just a poor design.
I've owned 3 Manix's, and sharpened literally scores of other people's as well. They do NOT break in, at least not to the degree that will help you. The only ones that get felt broken in were ones that were either modified or swapped out all together. And no, its not just you, they are entirely too stiff. And I don't know if I buy "it's that way for a reason." If the reason is that it's the only way it'll stay shut, then it's a bad design that needs to be fixed. You really have to be a fan boy to try to spin these into something good. I get they were going for an axis lock, but if im thistheir answer, it's time to move on from this type of lock.

You should use the spring until you develop calluses snd can bend a coin between your fingers.

One day you will need to interrogate a terrorist and a good purple nurple will makes the most hardened men sing like mariah carey

timwhite76 wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 23, 2025 7:19 am

No, its just a poor design.
I've owned 3 Manix's, and sharpened literally scores of other people's as well. They do NOT break in, at least not to the degree that will help you. The only ones that get felt broken in were ones that were either modified or swapped out all together. And no, its not just you, they are entirely too stiff. And I don't know if I buy "it's that way for a reason." If the reason is that it's the only way it'll stay shut, then it's a bad design that needs to be fixed. You really have to be a fan boy to try to spin these into something good. I get they were going for an axis lock, but if im thistheir answer, it's time to move on from this type of lock.

Lol well I've owned three and plan to own more because I have no problem with mine, but I guess that makes me a fanboy.

Gotta say I probably would have stopped after the second one if I had your experience.

Sorry it's not for you, but it's definitely my favorite Spyderco model.

Mage7 wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 24, 2025 6:11 pm

timwhite76 wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 23, 2025 7:19 am

No, its just a poor design.
I've owned 3 Manix's, and sharpened literally scores of other people's as well. They do NOT break in, at least not to the degree that will help you. The only ones that get felt broken in were ones that were either modified or swapped out all together. And no, its not just you, they are entirely too stiff. And I don't know if I buy "it's that way for a reason." If the reason is that it's the only way it'll stay shut, then it's a bad design that needs to be fixed. You really have to be a fan boy to try to spin these into something good. I get they were going for an axis lock, but if im thistheir answer, it's time to move on from this type of lock.

Lol well I've owned three and plan to own more because I have no problem with mine, but I guess that makes me a fanboy.

Gotta say I probably would have stopped after the second one if I had your experience.

Sorry it's not for you, but it's definitely my favorite Spyderco model.

Another fanboy here , silly me owning 12 knives with inferior locks .I quess I need a new hobby strumming a guitar . MG2

SpyderForLyfe wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 03, 2022 9:07 am

Hi all! I got the Manix 2 and this is my first cage lock knife from Spyderco. I see there are custom aftermarket springs out there and now I understand why.

Does the factory spring break in and become easier to compress? I find that is difficult to one-hand close this bad boy because of how strong that spring is. Should I give it time, or go ahead and order that custom spring and bearing kit?

I had a Manix 2 LW in Rex 45. When I got it, I hated the feel of the lock. It was hard to disengage and it had terrible lock stick. So I got a "medium" spring and a ceramic ball bearing from a seller on Etsy. It completely changed the character of the knife and made it enjoyable to use. Very easy to disengage the lock, very easy to flick open, zero lock stick. The lighter spring also makes for a lighter detent on the Manix 2 which, for me, makes it better.

I ended up selling the knife anyway just because, overall, I didn't love it like I do my PM2 and Mili 2.

If you're not happy with the action on your Manix 2, I would highly recommend getting a lighter spring and ceramic ball. You can get both for about $20.

8th_Note wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 24, 2025 6:31 pm

SpyderForLyfe wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 03, 2022 9:07 am

Hi all! I got the Manix 2 and this is my first cage lock knife from Spyderco. I see there are custom aftermarket springs out there and now I understand why.

Does the factory spring break in and become easier to compress? I find that is difficult to one-hand close this bad boy because of how strong that spring is. Should I give it time, or go ahead and order that custom spring and bearing kit?

I had a Manix 2 LW in Rex 45. When I got it, I hated the feel of the lock. It was hard to disengage and it had terrible lock stick. So I got a "medium" spring and a ceramic ball bearing from a seller on Etsy. It completely changed the character of the knife and made it enjoyable to use. Very easy to disengage the lock, very easy to flick open, zero lock stick. The lighter spring also makes for a lighter detent on the Manix 2 which, for me, makes it better.

I ended up selling the knife anyway just because, overall, I didn't love it like I do my PM2 and Mili 2.

If you're not happy with the action on your Manix 2, I would highly recommend getting a lighter spring and ceramic ball. You can get both for about $20.

I too have a LV s110v Manix 2, unfortunately- it’s riveted and not screws so that lock isn’t for fidgeting. At all.

My g10 heavyweight manix 2 on the otherhand feels easy as ****, so im guessing spring was swapped before i became its current owner. Really big difference.

timwhite76 wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 23, 2025 7:19 am

... "Well I have no problem with the lock, if you can't unlock it, then it must be you…,"
No, its just a poor design.
...

Well, I have to disagree with all due respect..
Imo the CBBL is a great lock/design and really easy to operate- and that on all Manixes I tried so far..

Here viewtopic.php?p=1459252#p145925 a link where you can watch short clips I made once about 6 ways to operate a CBBL... in 4 of those the lock even gets released with just one finger (instead of two): Still no problem at all as can be seen... (I admit though that I probably have finger strength above average)

timwhite76 wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 23, 2025 7:19 am

*bump* Firstly, ignore the messages telling you to just live with it. Honestly I don't understand those replies, I see them in guitar forums too, they seem to be there more for the benefit of those leaving them for the the OP posing the question. "Well I have no problem with the lock, if you can't unlock it, then it must be you…,"
No, its just a poor design.
I've owned 3 Manix's, and sharpened literally scores of other people's as well. They do NOT break in, at least not to the degree that will help you. The only ones that get felt broken in were ones that were either modified or swapped out all together. And no, its not just you, they are entirely too stiff. And I don't know if I buy "it's that way for a reason." If the reason is that it's the only way it'll stay shut, then it's a bad design that needs to be fixed. You really have to be a fan boy to try to spin these into something good. I get they were going for an axis lock, but if im thistheir answer, it's time to move on from this type of lock.

I can't wrap my mind around people thinking these locks are tough to use. I've never given them a second thought. slide the lock release back with my thumb and nudge the blade shut. what's difficult about it?

VooDooChild wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 03, 2022 10:05 pm

I kind of roll my eyes when this comes up. And it seems to come up a lot. Just practice and you will be fine.

Its one thing if you have arthritis or something but if you dont then I have to ask... is it really that bad?

My manix 2 lightweights are most definitely the worst locks to disengage. With that said I can still open and close them 50 times in a row with absolutely no problems.

Frankly I have had to open plastic packages that were much harder on my hands/fingers than even the worst spyderco ball lock.

I just always wonder is it really worth modding the knife? Is it really that bad?

agreed. reading these threads to me is like reading someone complaining they need to use two hands to close a dragonfly. I'm not trying to sound pretentious or imply I'm super strong but I just don't get it. I have never handled a cbbl knife that gave me any fits, even one with lock stick so bad I eventually sold it off.

I've never encountered a cbbl that took more than a single thumb or index finger to unlock. new, old, clear cage, black cage, aftermarket cage, stock spring, modded spring etc.

I genuinely do not understand these complaints. My grip strength isn't amazing either.

Mine took finger strength/memory. I though the first thing on my first Manix 2. It was tight. I tried a weaker spring and the knife wouldn't stay locked. After a couple days I got used to it and now prefer the stiff spring with how my fingers have evolved to it.

timwhite76 wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 23, 2025 7:19 am

*bump* Firstly, ignore the messages telling you to just live with it.

Now you've done it! You went and kicked the hornets' nest!

I see some degree of validity in all your points.
Personally, I like the CBBL, but I've tuned up each one I ever got.

I have two Manix 2's -- a LW and a G10 -- that had springs significantly stiffer than what I'm used to. The LW "broke in" nicely but the G10 was still very stiff. In retrospect, I think I learned how to work the lock better over time.

I decided to use the G10 as a project knife. I swapped the G10 scales for AWT scales, the factory ball for a ceramic ball, and the factory spring for a "light" spring. In my experience, the light spring is too light. I swapped it for a "medium" spring that results in better detent and is just slightly less stiff compared to the factory spring.

I picked up a Manix 2 Salt recently and I'm going to leave the factory hardware. It's close to "just right" for me. I'm going to try ladybug's advice and leave it halfway open.