Spyderco Forums

RustyIron wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 19, 2021 9:31 pm

My first was Maxamet, and I turned it sort of gray, so it matches the handle. One of my REX45's, I gave it a darker--maybe black/brown--that goes well with reddish handles. After those, I kind of got the "forced patina" out of my system.

Same. I did my Rex45 Shaman and K390 PM2
And I was done. They look cool though :)

FRNFanboy wrote: ↑

Sat Nov 20, 2021 1:25 pm

Same. I did my Rex45 Shaman and K390 PM2
And I was done. They look cool though :)

Right on, brother!
That's what knives are all about: looking cool.
Frankly, if a knife, or a gun, or a car, or a bike, doesn't look cool, then I'm not interested.
They're my toys. The ugly ones I'll leave for other guys to collect.

I've used French's for both my M4 blades. Very effective.

Nah. I use a STRONG corrosion inhibitor (eezox) that's not food safe once in a while and just treat them like normal. They have almost zero patina through some sweat and heavy use. If they did patina I wouldnt worry about it either though. Really just care about protecting them from degradation.

TkoK83Spy wrote: ↑

Sat Nov 20, 2021 6:13 am

I did it once with Super Blue. I actually bought this knife just to try it out and loved how it came out. The knife and steel itself just didnt work for me though and sold it shortly after.



On any of the others, which I have a lot of as I've become a tool steel junkie...they just cut warehouse materials and landscaping stuff, no foods. I doubt they'll ever form a patina, but if they do that's also fine!

That turned out really well. What method did you employ?

Nope. No patina for me. Humidity here right now is 18 percent.

Soanso McMasters wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 21, 2021 1:53 pm

TkoK83Spy wrote: ↑

Sat Nov 20, 2021 6:13 am

I did it once with Super Blue. I actually bought this knife just to try it out and loved how it came out. The knife and steel itself just didnt work for me though and sold it shortly after.



On any of the others, which I have a lot of as I've become a tool steel junkie...they just cut warehouse materials and landscaping stuff, no foods. I doubt they'll ever form a patina, but if they do that's also fine!

That turned out really well. What method did you employ?

If I remember correctly, I cut some pan seared ribeye steak that had butter, garlic and some kind of smoke flavored seasoning. Paired that with some asparagus. Left it as it was for a few hours and got those beautiful blues!

The patina looked different at different angles and lighting. I always liked how that photo turned out.

That one is NICE!
Care to share your technique?

Superflex wrote: ↑

Sat Nov 20, 2021 2:06 pm

I'm really liking these patina'd blades. May have to try it on the M4 Sage.

I don't force a patina and haven't seen much evidence of it starting to happen, at least until recently. I have the Jade PM2 adn the CF PM2, and I carry each of them. The Jade version is showing hints of patina so I've started putting on more protection and cleaning more frequently. It''s showing some light grays and some rainbow colors.

I also have Rex45 that I use quite a bit, and K390 and Cruwear so I've started watching them all.

I don't think you can completely prevent patina unless maybe you are in a very dry climate. I see people saying that they use various protectants. I've watched tests of various protectants and none of the popular ones worked 100%, but they will delay things. They might delay things long enough.

RustyIron wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 21, 2021 6:20 pm

That one is NICE!
Care to share your technique?

Superflex wrote: ↑

Sat Nov 20, 2021 2:06 pm

I removed the blade, wiped it down with rubbing alcohol and put it in a hot bath of microwaved apple cider vinegar for about 20 minutes.
I then applied spicy brown mustard in dots using a q-tip letting that site for about another 20 minutes. I think it was a total of 2-3 applications and removals of the mustard to get where I ended up with.

My first try at this technique wasn't as good and I ended up sanding off the patina with 400 grit wet/dry to get back to bare steel. That's why the spydie on the blade lost some of its definition.

Superflex wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 21, 2021 7:55 pm

RustyIron wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 21, 2021 6:20 pm

That one is NICE!
Care to share your technique?

Superflex wrote: ↑

Sat Nov 20, 2021 2:06 pm

I removed the blade, wiped it down with rubbing alcohol and put it in a hot bath of microwaved apple cider vinegar for about 20 minutes.
I then applied spicy brown mustard in dots using a q-tip letting that site for about another 20 minutes. I think it was a total of 2-3 applications and removals of the mustard to get where I ended up with.

My first try at this technique wasn't as good and I ended up sanding off the patina with 400 grit wet/dry to get back to bare steel. That's why the spydie on the blade lost some of its definition.

Did you do the entire blade, pivot included? Any impact on action if so?

I did the entire blade in apple cider vinegar but did not do the pivot area with mustard.
No effect on the action. This is my most drop shutty comp lock knife with no blade play.

I’ve done it both ways. However I usually just prefer to let the maids develop a patina overtime at its own pace. I think it looks better.

My M4 I did force patina with unsatisfactory results, so Maxamet and CruWear, just let it be.

I used Louisiana hot sauce (no lie) for about five seconds on one of my 52100s and it gave me a great patina. My others are either protected, or unprotected and unforced.

I forced a patina on my Endela K390. I don't think it help at all with rust. I've had spots pop and addressed quickly after being noticed. Just water left to dry close the the handle scales.

In the future, I would not force the patina. Just got excited and wanted to try it.

No forced patinas. It's a sin against nature lol

Keep the edge clean and who cares about the rest.