Manix clicking

[Wartstein]

...and everyone excited about the lightweights having screws instead of rivets will now have to deal with it as well....

Why?
It´s not like one could force you to disassemble your Manix 2 LW, as soon as the model gets screws instead of pins...

I´d actually love to dis- and re-assemble a Manix at least once!
It is the only locktype where I´ve never done this, since all my Manixes were actually (pinned) lightweights...

[wridziwn]

but if not then I hope they change it to a compression lock.

This would be a bad idea imho!

it would be sad to lose the only real choice here.

- Not ambidextrous any more
- No longer that self close bias and safety in the pocket
- Different ergos (for me "comp.lock cutout-hotspot")

This is also true for a linerlock, but not so much for a backlock, which has more similarities to the CBBL in several aspects.

Yeah, good points, I just like flicking my spydies so backlocks are too slow for that imo. Again, I would prefer if they just tell us how to fix it/properly re-assemble it.

...and everyone excited about the lightweights having screws instead of rivets will now have to deal with it as well....

Why?
It´s not like one could force you to disassemble your Manix 2 LW, as soon as the model gets screws instead of pins...

I´d actually love to dis- and re-assemble a Manix at least once!
It is the only locktype where I´ve never done this, since all my Manixes were actually (pinned) lightweights...

I think you answered this yourself hehe, but yeah, it's not forced, but it's gonna cause a bunch of people like yourself to suddenly want to attempt to disassemble it for whatever reason (a problem, dirt, curiosity, whatever).

I mean, the clicking isn't causing a functional issue with the lock/knife, it's just annoying. So to each their own. Maybe if more people disassemble them and get clicking and get annoyed there'll be more comments/threads and Spyderco will finally address the issue. Or maybe they have some $10,000 machine to assemble them in house and it's impossible to recreate at home? hehe

[Chuck James]

Great!!! Now ya'll have me looking for another non-issue.

[bgcameron]

I think I have figured out why the clicking sound happens.

As you open the blade, the ball moves out of its detent position and onto the rounded portion of the tang. The spring pressure is now moved from one angled surface to another, which causes the cage to tilt upwards in its track, causing a click. The ball moving within the cage might also contribute but it is hard to see.

For those of you with clicking Manixes, open the knife slowly and watch for movement of the cage. It is visible on my SPY27 Manix, which has a very quiet click.

edit: looking at it again, I think the click might actually be caused by the ball moving up and hitting the metal backspacer. Same underlying cause though.

[ZrowsN1s]

One of my P'kals clicks like that. The other one doesn't. Not a huge issue, but I do notice it.

[Bloke]

I get clicking on my Manixes when I swap out the steel ball bearing for a

Welcome to The Forum, Riggz.

[wridziwn]

It was also thought maybe it's the spring, like, the end of it turning, or getting caught on the cage pin. I dunno. It's a mystery, but more important is how to fix it. I don't even have a Manix to mess with anymore though. According to others, it's happened with new out-of-the-box ones before but it's rare and much more common after disassembly/reassembly, which is why I assume there's a "proper" way to reassemble/fix it from Spyderco.

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/the ... t-20001481 9/5/20 one guy here mentioned putting oil on the tang and it somehow fixed it

I tried everything to fix it. I took the thing apart and sanded down a ridge on the metal piece that houses the ball bearing and plastic cage. That didn't work. After that, I tried sanding off a ridge on the stem (little straight plastic piece) on the plastic cage because I thought that might be catching on the spring as I tried to close the knife. That didn't work.

After that, I looked all over online and saw some suggestions of opening the blade, very slightly loosening the screws that hold in the metal piece that holds the ball bearing and plastic cage, pressing the sharpened edge against something (safely, obviously), and then retightening the screws. That didn't work either.

I almost gave up. On a whim, I put a drop of oil on the tang of the blade (the area the ball bearing rides against) and on the ball bearing itself. I have no idea why, but that immediately fixed the clicking.

I don't know if it makes a difference, but the oil I used was CLP and the knife was an S110V model.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=87140#p1436831 7/20/20 and Steve here gives his method which the above guy mentioned not working for him, nor did it work for me before

I have finally learned how to get rid of though. By loosening the four screws just above the cage-lock (Two screws on the left, two screws on the right). Then, with the blade open. I push the tip of the blade down onto a cutting board. Like I'm cutting something, with medium pressure. Then while that pressure is still being applied. I tighten all four screw back up. This pushes that metal ball-ramp/back-spacer back ever so slightly, and the clicking stops. :)