I see what you mean. I sharpen my serrations with a microbevel. As in I don't zero grind them. It's all free hand though but on the flat side I lay the stone as flat as possible. If it's a flat grind knife I lay it flat on the blade. If it's hollow I'll lay it on the shoulder of the hollow.
You can see the microbevel here on my trusty S35VN native.
It would probably take a long time to get rid of that microbevel.
I usually finish the tip on my blue DMT stone.
SE 440V
Re: SE 440V
VashHash wrote: ↑Sun Apr 19, 2020 10:08 amI see what you mean. I sharpen my serrations with a microbevel. As in I don't zero grind them. It's all free hand though but on the flat side I lay the stone as flat as possible. If it's a flat grind knife I lay it flat on the blade. If it's hollow I'll lay it on the shoulder of the hollow.
You can see the microbevel here on my trusty S35VN native.
It would probably take a long time to get rid of that microbevel.
I usually finish the tip on my blue DMT stone.
I typically do too but eventually everything needs thinned out again and/or edge damage needs fixed. On this Native I'm trying to fix poor sharpening which means a full reprofile job so it's probably worse than I'd deal with on a regular basis but when I consider a steel for SE this is what I think about having to do.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Re: SE 440V
I see your point about 440V being a monster to sharpen :eek: because it truly is. Some time back I got a complete set of DMT conical diamond rods for my more difficult field sharpening jobs for most of my Spyderedged units. But on the other hand I've had my 440V serrated Spyders hold up so well that I just don't need to sharpen them that often.Evil D wrote: ↑Sat Apr 18, 2020 4:02 pmMan I dunno I feel like some of you guys must never consider the need to reprofile serrations with a steel like this. I'm currently working on my S30V Native and it is taking literally thousands of strokes on the Sharpmaker on CBN rods. I have absolutely no interest in any steel that's more wear resistant or harder to grind than S30V. Honestly if this wasn't my first Spyderco I would not waste my time on it.
I do wish that Spyderco would have made the 701 Profile sharpening tool in diamond. That would have made sharpening 440V a bit easier. I really like 440V serrated blades mainly because I rare ever chip an edge with that blade steel. But dude you are so right about 440V being a monster to sharpen. I still rank it high on the charts even compared to all these newer supersteels.
Re: SE 440V
Again I would still like it if Spyderco would ever want to go back to that blade steel for serrated edges. I would just love a Jumpmaster or any other serrated fixed blade model in 440V.Sonorum wrote: ↑Sun Apr 19, 2020 6:33 amIn Larrins recent article about s30v he mentions that 440v is similar to s90v (quoting from memory here) so it seems logical that the steel is performing well in your tests! When you look at the contents of 440v it has a lot of good stuff in it. The serrations seem to be not to toothy as well! That certainly helps with cutting paper. I'm a bit jealous of your knife One of my favourite knives is a CS s90v native.
440V was one of the very first blade steels that I found so hard to sharpen that I would even learn new curse words while sharpening it :D I even find ZDP-189 easier to sharpen than 440V.