Spyderco Forums

double post

PineChaos wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 18, 2019 8:29 am

What am I missing here...? It looks to me like they corrected the previous issue of the blade contacting the backspacer by adding more space between the two. Yet somehow this warrants complaining about "QC"...

As pointed out by other comments, they over corrected the issue and the blade is almost exposed. After a few sharpenings the tip could be exposed.

PineChaos wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 18, 2019 8:29 am

What am I missing here...? It looks to me like they corrected the previous issue of the blade contacting the backspacer by adding more space between the two. Yet somehow this warrants complaining about "QC"...

What are you missing? Some knives have exposed tips when closed, burrs in the Spydiehole, and botched jimping. All user-fixable. The complaint is about a noticeable drop-off in finish. The market is merely speaking.

The blade tip on my Urban sits pretty high as well, though not so much so that I have any concerns about it. I did also post in another thread about this topic.. this issue, combined with some of the other f&f issues do not seem up to snuff with typical Spyderco quality. Still, not a bad knife at all.. I've been enjoying mine.

Here's how they look now. Both in good working order.

Agreed. I made an account just to post about these issues regarding this model. I’ve basically had quite a few Spyderco models over the last 20 years, except for that dang spider arm, and was quite let down by the unfinished nature of this aebl model in regards to;
1. Burr in Spyder hole, roughly at 4oclock looking at logo side;
2. Tip sits incredibly high as OP pointed out, like on an old worn Case knife;
3. Actual Edge has an almost bumpy vertical tiger stripe pattern, alternating between mirror polish finish and satin, almost like it was only partly stropped / polished, the tip is sharpened at a lower angle than the rest of the blade, and the kicker for me is the rest of the edge is probably sharpened to around 30 degrees. maybe fox, who I assume built these, thought it was an axe?

Just thought I’d post that so people don’t think it’s a unique issue. Now I’m totally thrilled to have any spydie in aebl and I was going to reprofile the edge anyway, so no big deal there. What I found surprising was the unfinished nature on these.

I wouldn’t call it a quality issue, but when you’re Spyderco and quality and finish is always superb, any minor things like these is very surprising.

Honestly the fit and finish is leaps and bounds ahead on even the Taiwanese Spydie models, although let’s be honest, Italian knives in general are kinda like French knives... there’s a lot to be desired :rolleyes:

Anyway, like I said, surprising, but a non issue. Thanks

and um,
SAL, PLEASE MAKE A MAXAMET MODEL WITH A BIGGER BLADE :D

My 2 examples are headed back to the dealer for a refund. They included all of the issues stated in this thread, as well as a bent pocket clip. Unacceptable! The customer shouldn't have to "fix" anything on a brand-new knife.

I wonder why the many changes in the internal design of the knife?

Doc Dan wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 18, 2019 5:50 pm

I wonder why the many changes in the internal design of the knife?

The aebl version is for sure beefier around the pivot, which can only be a good thing?

Doc Dan wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 18, 2019 5:50 pm

I wonder why the many changes in the internal design of the knife?

Same here, I have the regular Urban and it’s perfect. Or it appears to be.

FWIW, I was able to bring my AEB-L Urban up to standard with just some stones, sandpaper, and a little patience. If I can lower the tip, remove the burr, and reclaim the thumb-jimping, most anyone can.

Fixing the spinning pivot on my K390 Urban is another matter, and I’m not sure how permanent my fix will be.

I wish Spyderco would use the pivot assembly it put in the G10 version, and sell this assembly to those who want to retrofit.

I’ve been lucky, mine is good in all respects. Sharp clear jimping, tip is sufficiently below the handle to survive a few sharpenings, no problems with clip, etc. Considering the relatively low numbers these are produced in, I wonder how the bad ones slip through?

wrdwrght wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 18, 2019 7:40 pm

Fixing the spinning pivot on my K390 Urban is another matter, and I’m not sure how permanent my fix will be.

Please let me know if you are able to fix this. I have the same problem with my K390 Urban. I took it apart to fix the blade hitting the back spacer. I did an "ugly but effective" job on it, but messed up putting it back together and have the same problem.

The 'kick" is the lowest part of the blade, and a little by little removal of the proud bit will lower the blade tip.
Use a sharpening stone or diamond grit abrasive, and go SLOWLY...

Maybe three strokes, and check the closure.

Repeat until you are happy.

Do NOT touch the spring with any grinding gear at all.

Stuart Ackerman wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 19, 2019 12:15 am

The 'kick" is the lowest part of the blade, and a little by little removal of the proud bit will lower the blade tip.
Use a sharpening stone or diamond grit abrasive, and go SLOWLY...

Maybe three strokes, and check the closure.

Repeat until you are happy.

Do NOT touch the spring with any grinding gear at all.

Thanks, Stuart. I was wondering whether the heat from a dremel would harm the spring tension.

ChrisinHove wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 19, 2019 12:33 am

Stuart Ackerman wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 19, 2019 12:15 am

The 'kick" is the lowest part of the blade, and a little by little removal of the proud bit will lower the blade tip.
Use a sharpening stone or diamond grit abrasive, and go SLOWLY...

Maybe three strokes, and check the closure.

Repeat until you are happy.

Do NOT touch the spring with any grinding gear at all.

Thanks, Stuart. I was wondering whether the heat from a dremel would harm the spring tension.

You could take the spring down, but do it by hand, carefully, slowly, and artfully. Then, only a small amount, if need be. Do not use a Dremel. But, the kick is the place to start. A little goes a long way on this.

blendergasket wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 18, 2019 8:28 pm

wrdwrght wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 18, 2019 7:40 pm

Fixing the spinning pivot on my K390 Urban is another matter, and I’m not sure how permanent my fix will be.

Please let me know if you are able to fix this. I have the same problem with my K390 Urban. I took it apart to fix the blade hitting the back spacer. I did an "ugly but effective" job on it, but messed up putting it back together and have the same problem.

I initiated the unwanted spin of my pivot screw not by disassembling but by tightening the pivot to eliminate lateral blade-play that was on the increase.

Evidently, I exceeded the threshold of too much force and deformed the D-shape in the FRN’s pivot hole and created the conditions for spin.

My first fix was to glue the pivot’s female end into the scale. But Loctite threadlocker (I was using blue) is for metal-to-metal so my fix quickly failed.

I have since reglued the pivot’s female into the scale with Loctite’s Plastics Bonder (supposed to bond plastic and metal). It comes in two parts, an activator and a glue.

I let the job cure 24 hours before reassembly, found where tightening of the pivot stopped blade play, backed out the screw and applied blue threadlocker, then tightened down the pivot just beyond where blade-play is eliminated. No spin then, or yet.

Normally, I would have sent my K390 Urban back to W&R, but another member got no joy for the very same problem and I chose to go my own way.

This has turned out to be an informative thread. I was totally unaware of the K390 Urban issue before this discussion but was actively looking for one. Now I’m thinking it’s best to just avoid the sprint Urbans all together. I might be able to live with the aeb-l issue but the K390 sounds much worse.

Redman5006 wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 19, 2019 11:48 am

This has turned out to be an informative thread. I was totally unaware of the K390 Urban issue before this discussion but was actively looking for one. Now I’m thinking it’s best to just avoid the sprint Urbans all together. I might be able to live with the aeb-l issue but the K390 sounds much worse.

I don’t get duplicates, but if I did, I’d get another K390 Urban in spite of my experience. The design (and steel) is that good.

I think Spyderco could negate the Urban LW’s potential unreliability by using the pivot that was put in the Seki-built G10 Urban.

I’m thinking about a thread for Sal on the subject...

I have 3 K390 Urbans and all 3 are as perfect as it gets. No complaints here.