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In my experience PE H1 seems to performs best with a coarse edge.

I’ve used my Tasman PE HB for quite a while now gilling and cleaning fish with an edge straight off SharpMaker diamond rods, no micro bevel and find (when I remember to) it responds well to stropping on stiff leather and chrome oxide. :)

Bloke wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 26, 2019 1:51 am

In my experience PE H1 seems to performs best with a coarse edge.

I’ve used my Tasman PE HB for quite a while now gilling and cleaning fish with an edge straight off SharpMaker diamond rods, no micro bevel and find (when I remember to) it responds well to stropping on stiff leather and chrome oxide. :)

I'll second that.

It seems PE H1 gets a smooth and glassy feeling edge after slicing abrasive materials. It will still push cut ok, but will lose that slicing aggression pretty quick with a polished edge.

Experimenting with different grit finishes on PE H1 is what led me to preferring lower grit edges for my EDC's. Before that I'd always go with a high polish. Seems to me that running H1 at those lower grits and giving it some micro teeth helps prevent it from losing slicing aggression so quick.

Vivi wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 26, 2019 1:14 pm

Bloke wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 26, 2019 1:51 am

In my experience PE H1 seems to performs best with a coarse edge.

I’ve used my Tasman PE HB for quite a while now gilling and cleaning fish with an edge straight off SharpMaker diamond rods, no micro bevel and find (when I remember to) it responds well to stropping on stiff leather and chrome oxide. :)

I'll second that.

It seems PE H1 gets a smooth and glassy feeling edge after slicing abrasive materials. It will still push cut ok, but will lose that slicing aggression pretty quick with a polished edge.

Experimenting with different grit finishes on PE H1 is what led me to preferring lower grit edges for my EDC's. Before that I'd always go with a high polish. Seems to me that running H1 at those lower grits and giving it some micro teeth helps prevent it from losing slicing aggression so quick.

Interesting... Maybe when I need to sharpen this knife I'll keep this thread going and compare how it does with a more toothy edge compared to the polished edge it has now.

Update: So far from yesterday and today, I carved some more, cut up some packages, and stripped some wire. While the edge is still sharp, it is indeed getting that "glassy" feeling, losing its aggression, but still very sharp. It almost feels better at cutting things like paper or those blister packages, but for anything that is thicker than that, it doesn't have the aggression to really bite into it anymore. I've never really felt an edge like this, it usually seems to be the other way around where a knife can saw through cardboard and the like, but can't make a delicate and effortless cut through thin plastic or paper.

Next time I sharpen it, I'll definitely be putting a more coarse edge on it, if only to see how it compares.

Just got my very first h1 ...pe dragonfly. I like the dragonfly for just having a knife that is not bulky, you forget its there, especially good when cycling or hiking or otherwise outside in lightweight shorts or slacks where a big heavy knife would be noticeable. Got the h1 version after having the vg10 because I heard all about how it won't rust, even in sweaty shorts or a cycling jersey pocket, and also when I do go to the beach, it'd be nice!
Sadly went back to my pm2 today, (hey it's cool too) but intend to edc the dragonfly in h1 daily until I can afford a full size salt 2 or whatnot. i'll let you know how it goes. Have to cut a lot of cardboard and packing straps at work sometimes. FYI, it came shaving sharp out of the box!

lonerider1013 wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 27, 2019 4:59 pm

FYI, it came shaving sharp out of the box!

lonerider1013 wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 27, 2019 4:59 pm

Just got my very first h1 ...pe dragonfly. I like the dragonfly for just having a knife that is not bulky, you forget its there, especially good when cycling or hiking or otherwise outside in lightweight shorts or slacks where a big heavy knife would be noticeable. Got the h1 version after having the vg10 because I heard all about how it won't rust, even in sweaty shorts or a cycling jersey pocket, and also when I do go to the beach, it'd be nice!
Sadly went back to my pm2 today, (hey it's cool too) but intend to edc the dragonfly in h1 daily until I can afford a full size salt 2 or whatnot. i'll let you know how it goes. Have to cut a lot of cardboard and packing straps at work sometimes. FYI, it came shaving sharp out of the box!

Welcome to the thread! It'll be nice to have someone else's input on how it's going too! I'm excited to see how it goes for you and how your experience differs from mine.

Edge retention on my PE salt is not that great

But it’s still the knife I carry almost everyday for the past 5 years because of everything that Evil mentioned above

Bloke wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 27, 2019 5:10 pm

lonerider1013 wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 27, 2019 4:59 pm

FYI, it came shaving sharp out of the box!

Hahahaha....crap beer came out my nose.
The reason its funny.... well if you're a cyclist you know why its funny!

You can always be counted to make one smile! Thank you!

I'll let you know. So far it's only been used to cut packing straps and open food wrappers. The packing straps sometimes give boxcutters trouble but never a spyderco. This one was no exception.

lonerider1013 wrote: ↑

Wed May 01, 2019 2:30 pm

Hahahaha....

Avid cyclist ... :p

I also use a coarse edge on my PE H1 knives. Usually just use the DMT black/extra coarse and call it a day.

Bloke wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 26, 2019 1:51 am

In my experience PE H1 seems to performs best with a coarse edge.

I’ve used my Tasman PE HB for quite a while now gilling and cleaning fish with an edge straight off SharpMaker diamond rods, no micro bevel and find (when I remember to) it responds well to stropping on stiff leather and chrome oxide. :)

Do you think a coarse stone is best, or is a medium better?

Doc Dan wrote: ↑

Thu May 02, 2019 6:43 am

Bloke wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 26, 2019 1:51 am

In my experience PE H1 seems to performs best with a coarse edge.

I’ve used my Tasman PE HB for quite a while now gilling and cleaning fish with an edge straight off SharpMaker diamond rods, no micro bevel and find (when I remember to) it responds well to stropping on stiff leather and chrome oxide. :)

Do you think a coarse stone is best, or is a medium better?

Hey Doc, I'd be lying if I were to say which is best as I simply don't know and I haven't experimented.

That said, the knife performs much better than I had expected (sharpened as above). It cuts aggressively and seems to hold it's edge surprisingly well. :cool:

Sorry I couldn't be of more help. :)

Just got my Salt 2! Watching "the abyss" to celebrate this awesome water knife lol (hey it was that or waterworld...)
Only used it a few times so far but one thing I noticed is the entire blade is curved even by the pivot, it's like there is no flat its all belly. Pretty cool!
Lonerider

So, after some days carrying / using the H1...(salt 2 and dragonfly tho these comments apply mostly to the salt 2)
It stays sharp pretty well enough to cut most things but loses a degree of sharpness with use. I noticed that after opening boxes etc it wasn't "as sharp" as before. Today I had to cut some overhanging thorn bushes on a bike ride so they wouldn't wack me next time I rode there and the hard skin on the plant was tough to cut it wouldn't bit at first. When I got home tested it on paper, it was dull enough to notice the difference but it still cut things like cardboard. But... I ran it lightly over some ceramic (the bottom of a mug) and it was like stropping it, it went back to shaving sharp.
The only other big note is that although it may not rust, it does seem to show wear, there are visible striations on the blade from slicing through things sundry and various.
Overall though I am very happy with it so far, my only complaint about the salt 2 (this doesn't apply to the dragonfly for some reason)is the action is a little stiff, perhaps this is because it lacks washers?
One interesting note is the blade of the salt 2 has no true flat, it curves at both ends like the rocker on a rocking chair. Also tho the sheepsfoot/off center point makes it difficult to poke something accidentally, it is very easy to deliberately use it, which means you get the safety benefit of the lack of a traditional point while maintaining a very functional point nevertheless. Also because the point is in line with the front edge you get as similar functionality to as wharncliffe in terms of point or tip cutting (ironic as a wharncliffe is all flat edge and this is all curved).
Only other observation is the clip feels different, maybe it is a different material than the standard Delicas?
Very happy with it, though, and like the orange, the yellow is friendly and easy to see in low light.

Lonerider

I believe salts use Ti clips and regular Spydercos use steel.