Spyderco Forums

phaust wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 27, 2018 9:39 am

I love partial serrations like Victorinox does, with the serrations on the tip-half. The serrations grab the material there where it tends to slide off with a plane edge.

I'd be all over it if Spyderco put out some models like that.

Which knife ?

Photo or link to victirinox as never seen one.

500Nitro wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 27, 2018 9:52 am

phaust wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 27, 2018 9:39 am

I love partial serrations like Victorinox does, with the serrations on the tip-half. The serrations grab the material there where it tends to slide off with a plane edge.

I'd be all over it if Spyderco put out some models like that.

Which knife ?

Photo or link to victirinox as never seen one.

Pic attached, although it's the back side of the serrations. The one hand models have it :spyder:

jezabel wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 27, 2018 4:54 am

I frequently carry an se and a pe blade. I know that I’d put a combo Millie to use. I have been on the fence for some time with the combo 52100 Para 2 mainly because I find combo edges are more useful in larger blades. However I’d also love to see how 52100 performs with teeth...

j

The Millie actually used to be availabe in CE at one time. I had one of the older 440V in combo but it's been quite some time. The mention earlier of a Para2 in 52100 in CE I'm finding very enticing and it's one I would kind of like to check out.

However most of the time I like a combo edge on a longer blade to be able to utilize both edges better. The knife blades that are on many multi-tools are usually full PE or full SE>> but on a mulit-tool it would seem like a combo edge would be ideal.

I've found that when I want serrations, I also want a hawkbill. having a DF2 SE hawkbill as a secondary carry is perfect for this.

CE has a bad rep because they are SXXT!

Na, just kidding :D

Spyderco serrations are devastatingly effective, no doubt about that - and those who use them and not least know how to sharpen their Spyderco knives are fans. CE dont have a bad rep amongst them (obviously).

For people being spoiled by effective factory serrations - CE or full - and not knowing how to shapen them (and maybe mess up the sharpning job), there might be some suffering from what I call 'serration apprehension.'
I just made that up. Its a thing now :D

I'd still like to see something like this, even more now that I've really grown to love SE I think it's a fantastic idea for a combo edge. It puts the PE in the spots that I use it most and puts the SE in the middle so nothing can slip off the blade. You can still carve with the heel of the blade and make detailed cuts with the tip, and the SE is in the middle where the hard work happens. I think I'd be happy with about an inch or so of PE at the heel and maybe a half inch at the tip, which on a Military would leave about two inches of SE in the middle.

Yep, this (not available) type of CE, as shown above from Evil D, looks extremely useful ... :cool:

Evil D wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 30, 2018 11:05 am

I'd still like to see something like this, even more now that I've really grown to love SE I think it's a fantastic idea for a combo edge. It puts the PE in the spots that I use it most and puts the SE in the middle so nothing can slip off the blade. You can still carve with the heel of the blade and make detailed cuts with the tip, and the SE is in the middle where the hard work happens. I think I'd be happy with about an inch or so of PE at the heel and maybe a half inch at the tip, which on a Military would leave about two inches of SE in the middle.

I do like the design of that front tip area ( maybe 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch) to be plain edged but the heel part I would rather see it just be full Spyderedged. I have an old 440V NATIVE model with 1/2 inch of the front tip in PE and it does really come in handy but I can't conceive of the small portion of the heel part of the edge in PE as having any significant advantage. If I'm missing something or overlooking something please explain?

As a general rule I like my combo edges to be the most popular edition and that is with about 1 to 1 & 1/2 inches of SE on the heel of the blade.

But Dude I agree with you that the return of the full Spyderedged Military is way overdue IMO.

JD Spydo wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 31, 2018 6:39 am

Evil D wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 30, 2018 11:05 am

I'd still like to see something like this, even more now that I've really grown to love SE I think it's a fantastic idea for a combo edge. It puts the PE in the spots that I use it most and puts the SE in the middle so nothing can slip off the blade. You can still carve with the heel of the blade and make detailed cuts with the tip, and the SE is in the middle where the hard work happens. I think I'd be happy with about an inch or so of PE at the heel and maybe a half inch at the tip, which on a Military would leave about two inches of SE in the middle.

I do like the design of that front tip area ( maybe 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch) to be plain edged but the heel part I would rather see it just be full Spyderedged. I have an old 440V NATIVE model with 1/2 inch of the front tip in PE and it does really come in handy but I can't conceive of the small portion of the heel part of the edge in PE as having any significant advantage. If I'm missing something or overlooking something please explain?

As a general rule I like my combo edges to be the most popular edition and that is with about 1 to 1 & 1/2 inches of SE on the heel of the blade.

But Dude I agree with you that the return of the full Spyderedged Military is way overdue IMO.

Well really carving something is one of the only areas I've found where SE kinda sucks. It isn't something I need to do even once in a while but when I do need to it's harder to get done with that wee bit of PE at the tip, you can get a lot more force at the heel of the blade.

Evil D wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 31, 2018 9:12 am

JD Spydo wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 31, 2018 6:39 am

Evil D wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 30, 2018 11:05 am

I'd still like to see something like this, even more now that I've really grown to love SE I think it's a fantastic idea for a combo edge. It puts the PE in the spots that I use it most and puts the SE in the middle so nothing can slip off the blade. You can still carve with the heel of the blade and make detailed cuts with the tip, and the SE is in the middle where the hard work happens. I think I'd be happy with about an inch or so of PE at the heel and maybe a half inch at the tip, which on a Military would leave about two inches of SE in the middle.

I do like the design of that front tip area ( maybe 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch) to be plain edged but the heel part I would rather see it just be full Spyderedged. I have an old 440V NATIVE model with 1/2 inch of the front tip in PE and it does really come in handy but I can't conceive of the small portion of the heel part of the edge in PE as having any significant advantage. If I'm missing something or overlooking something please explain?

As a general rule I like my combo edges to be the most popular edition and that is with about 1 to 1 & 1/2 inches of SE on the heel of the blade.

But Dude I agree with you that the return of the full Spyderedged Military is way overdue IMO.

Well really carving something is one of the only areas I've found where SE kinda sucks. It isn't something I need to do even once in a while but when I do need to it's harder to get done with that wee bit of PE at the tip, you can get a lot more force at the heel of the blade.

I'm not exactly clear on that one :confused: Not sure that carving would be a job I want to use a combo edge blade for anyway. Carving is a completely separate endeavor>> because I've actually been toying with learning about carving and whittling in my spare time lately. The blades I've been playing with are all plain edged and most of them relatively short that I'm finding to work best in carving and whittling both.

As much as I like Spyderedged blades, Hawkbill blades and Spyderco's great Reverse S blades I'm completely convinced that none of the aforementioned would be much help in the areas of carving and whittling unless there is something that I'm completely missing? and that's possible because I'm truly a rookie and a novice at the hobby of carving and whittling>> but I do hope to learn more about it.

Also I'm a bit confused as to why the heel end of a blade used with a lot of force could be helpful on those two applications>> hey I don't mean this in any way to act like a wise guy or "know it all" because I'm being truthful>> if I'm missing something obvious I would like to know what it is>> because again the only two types of knives I've been using on my new hobby are relatively short, stout plain edged blades.

Or if anyone besides David has any input on this please feel free to educate me :)

Joe, not talking about carving a sculpture

I just mean, go out and whittle something with a SE. What exactly is the point of a combo edge if not to make it more versatile? I can carve with the tip of a typical CE but it's harder to do with the tip than the heel.

Like others, I’d rather “combo carry”. 1 PE Delica + 1 SE Delica > 1 CE Military.

today the CE Cara Cara proved its worth. This morning it cut off the hard front part of a silicone tube to be used in a silicone pistol by sawing the hard plastic (the PE slipped off every time). Then the PE scraped the bits of old silicone from previous years and failed attempts at the repair. :p
This evening:
The teeth sawed through the hard flat plastic straps to open a box containing Halloween themed stuff, :rolleyes: the PE opened the clamshells and boxes, then the CE cut several strands of nylon wire with precision (held close to the pivot) and the PE made a very precise wedge in a plastic straw (seen in the pic over the light) to make the Pumpkin light stand straight and not spin.
:o



I like being able to do all with one knife :cool: