I agree with Clay I prefer the Warncliffe blade style. The clip point and drop point both have their advantages though. I don't have a sheepsfoot but can see they would be very useful.
"everything else is just a jeep"
Optimum blade shape ; What's your's?
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AllenETreat
- Member
- Posts: 3156
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: The Constitution State USA
I SEE Our esteemed ( HIGHLY IMB ) forum
member DiALEX has raised an interesting
configurationin the NOT mentioned
"recurve" ( like on the REKAT carnivore
or Emerson Commander series ) blade.
It show's how there are some REAL
cerebral types amongst US! As for you,
fredswartz, the Civie is reverse "S"
as to get "technically parochialistic"!
Why hawkbills for yours truly? It goes
back to my youth when I used to $crew
around in a neighbor's backyard with
a non-locking hawkbill which I fell
in LOVE with, but mommy dearest quickly
put a stop to that! ( I think I was
like 10yrs old at the time.) Just that
IMB they don't look like the proverbial
"toad stabber", that's all.
-AET
Edited by - AllenETreat on 2/26/2003 7:43:35 PM
member DiALEX has raised an interesting
configurationin the NOT mentioned
"recurve" ( like on the REKAT carnivore
or Emerson Commander series ) blade.
It show's how there are some REAL
cerebral types amongst US! As for you,
fredswartz, the Civie is reverse "S"
as to get "technically parochialistic"!
Why hawkbills for yours truly? It goes
back to my youth when I used to $crew
around in a neighbor's backyard with
a non-locking hawkbill which I fell
in LOVE with, but mommy dearest quickly
put a stop to that! ( I think I was
like 10yrs old at the time.) Just that
IMB they don't look like the proverbial
"toad stabber", that's all.
-AET
Edited by - AllenETreat on 2/26/2003 7:43:35 PM
Re: hawkbill realworld use...
I use the G10 Harpy around the property for many tasks. A few are actually best performed by this blade type, I feel. Small watershoots on the fruit trees can be precisely excised by inserting the hooked beak between the desired budded growth and the rank competing shoot. A pull-cut or sawing motion, if needed, is performed without the fear of cutting through to the desired growth that you have to worry about using a straight blade and cutting or pushing away from you, or worse, using your thumb as a brake. Harvesting vegetables and fruit is likewise precise and quick with less damage to neighboring unripe stalks.
Its tip is a great piercing, spreading, separator that is easy to control without elevating your wrist into a very uncomfortable angle in order to view the tip as in a conventional blade. Cutting a straight line thru tar paper or scoring drywall is also a hawkbill specialty. There are many more tasks that are suited very well to the drawing back cutting motion best performed by the hawks.
I love it for husking walnuts as its curve fits the contour of the walnut with less wrist motion required to score and then pry loose the husk.
I have the one Harpy that I carry and another in its red box awaiting its call to duty.
Disguised as a Responsible Adult
I use the G10 Harpy around the property for many tasks. A few are actually best performed by this blade type, I feel. Small watershoots on the fruit trees can be precisely excised by inserting the hooked beak between the desired budded growth and the rank competing shoot. A pull-cut or sawing motion, if needed, is performed without the fear of cutting through to the desired growth that you have to worry about using a straight blade and cutting or pushing away from you, or worse, using your thumb as a brake. Harvesting vegetables and fruit is likewise precise and quick with less damage to neighboring unripe stalks.
Its tip is a great piercing, spreading, separator that is easy to control without elevating your wrist into a very uncomfortable angle in order to view the tip as in a conventional blade. Cutting a straight line thru tar paper or scoring drywall is also a hawkbill specialty. There are many more tasks that are suited very well to the drawing back cutting motion best performed by the hawks.
I love it for husking walnuts as its curve fits the contour of the walnut with less wrist motion required to score and then pry loose the husk.
I have the one Harpy that I carry and another in its red box awaiting its call to duty.
Disguised as a Responsible Adult
How about the:
"Weehawk" or "Dagger" shape!
Preferably a combo edge and sharpened on both sides. Cuts great up or down - left or right. Very sharp point for penetration and classic looks too!
No reason why they can't be for "everyday use" either!
Or how about:
The "Kukri" style blades of some of the newer combat/survival knives! You could chop down trees with those things! Or make heads roll!
ken
"Weehawk" or "Dagger" shape!
Preferably a combo edge and sharpened on both sides. Cuts great up or down - left or right. Very sharp point for penetration and classic looks too!
No reason why they can't be for "everyday use" either!
Or how about:
The "Kukri" style blades of some of the newer combat/survival knives! You could chop down trees with those things! Or make heads roll!
ken
On larger folders I like a clip or drop point or a slight recurve drop point, on real small folders say like the navigator I would prefer a thinner clip point type like you see on the rookie model, my reasons are because if I carry a knive it must be versitle enough to do most any task, I do a lot of big game hunting and also I fish, I also use knives at work everyday, I think spear and tanto points,hawkbill ect. are not versatle enough for my uses so I tend to stay away from them.
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aero_student
- Member
- Posts: 735
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: Folsom, CA, USA, Earth USA