Real World BD1 experience?

[me2]

When testing bd1 and s110v directly against each other in real world use during a garage cleanout, the difference in edge holding wasn't noticeable. Even in controlled testing cutting cardboard, after 500 feet each, the sharpness difference was not distinguishable. Both were sharpened on diamond stones to 1200 grit, same angle, and edge thickness was within a couple thousandths of an inch. If the bd1 knife were a bit lighter and more acceptable socially, I'd keep it and get rid of the s110v.

[PaleMoon]

I'm surprised to read about BD1 being more chippy than VG10. I've been toying with the idea of picking up a Manix LW as a beater and, while I'm not really concerned with edge holding, both toughness and corrosion resistance would be pretty important in this application. Any more input on this? How would BD1 compare to S110V, aside from edge holding?

H1 will absolutely destroy any other stainless when it comes to toughness and corrosion resistance, including BD1. I'd consider a Salt knife for your beater.

I originally bought my Pacific Salt for that reason and ended up liking it so much I now own six and EDC at least one daily.

That being said I reprofiled my Manix LW in BD1 pretty thin and never had chipping issues, but it was mostly a garage knife for me, not an EDC.

I already have a Pac Salt SE on my "must buy" list next time I visit the US, in large part based on your comments here. I do own a Tasman and DF2 Salt, and while the Tasman doesn't see much use (dedicated dive knife), I'm not a big fan of the DF2. I figured maybe I just don't like serrations on such a short blade, so hopefully the longer blade on the Pac will change my mind about H1 SE.

Still, I'd really like to give the Manix a shot. The S30V and Maxamet models are out of the question, so I'm left with either S110V or BD1, and would like to hear more about BD1's overall performance (i.e. not just edge retention/wear resistance) before pulling the trigger.

[Nate]

... I never heard of BD1, can someone give me some info on this steel.

Essentially it's an american made ( Carpenter) version of Gin 1.

Though not what we now call a "super steel", Gin 1 was a premium cutlery steel made for cutlery use. It's near 1% carbon, and has 15.5 % chrome amongst other ingredients. The Chrome will be the main carbide former, but it should have a smaller grain than say, 440C. This gives it slightly less wear resistance, perhaps less corrosion resistance but IMO it has a better edge than 440C.

Gin 1 means "silver" ( the paper color code given by the foundry) and of course #1 means just that. "Silver #1". I've stated this here before but Gin 1, ( also called G-2 on some knives) was the first stainless steel that I really liked and respected when I bought my first Spyderco using it back in 92. It gave then, and still gives good all around performance.

BD 1 is the same composition wise, and performance wise. It sharpens easier, and takes a bit better edge than 440C, is decently tough. It made good serrations for those inclined. In fact I still have my first Spyderco Gin 1 knife from 92, and it's still EDC'able. I carry it from time to time despite having pretty much most of the "cool" "super steels".

Joe

I hope Joe doesn't mind me dredging up an old quote, but I like it. It gets sort of forgotten that BD1 is essentially the old GIN-1 (and G2). It's been sort of a staple for Spyderco for a loooong time by one name or another.

My use is generally light, so I don't have much to say on performance of steels in general, except that geometry cuts :D, but I haven't yet found a reason it can't be all I really need for an edc. I carry the Urban or UKPK in BD-1 a lot, it does fine for me, sharpens easily.

[Joris Mo]

Not VG10 but quite nice nonetheless I'd say, easy to sharpen/maintain, don't know about "chippieness" since I don't have it on any hard use blades..

Correction: Do have BD1 on my Polestar which should be fine for some hard use but haven't gotten around to use that a lot yet.
(usually carry my Stretch 2 or Manix 2 backlock)

[Fschloss226]

What I really HOPE FOR is that Spyderco will upgrade the steel on the Manix LW to XHP (perhaps in translucent orange).

Doubt you'll get that in a production, but iirc wasn't the knifecenter sprint run S110v?

[Doc Dan]

The knifecenter exclusive was XHP with FRCP. So, it is easily doable for Spyderco to make an XHP Manix 2 LW with orange translucent FRCP.

[Doc Dan]

Well, I decided to get a Manix LW in translucent blue. I ordered it from KW just a while ago. I will let you all know how the steel does.

[Username827]

Well, I decided to get a Manix LW in translucent blue. I ordered it from KW just a while ago. I will let you all know how the steel does.

Good luck, enjoy the knife! If that Translucent Orange XHP ever comes out, I will be in line with you!

[Koop]

This thread got me thinking - I have two M2LW - one in BD-1 and one in CTS-XHP. I'm a fan of XHP and the M2LW with brown FRCP has become my EDC for a couple of months now. I love hair-poppin' sharp blades, so I touch-up the XHP every week or two.

Today I touched up the XHP, then also hit the BD-1 to equal sharpness. I'm going to carry the BD-1 for next few weeks and see how much real world difference the XHP vs BD-1 makes to me.

[Doc Dan]

This thread got me thinking - I have two M2LW - one in BD-1 and one in CTS-XHP. I'm a fan of XHP and the M2LW with brown FRCP has become my EDC for a couple of months now. I love hair-poppin' sharp blades, so I touch-up the XHP every week or two.

Today I touched up the XHP, then also hit the BD-1 to equal sharpness. I'm going to carry the BD-1 for next few weeks and see how much real world difference the XHP vs BD-1 makes to me.

That is a good idea. I wonder how much difference in edge holding there will be?

There are some good videos on the difference between XHP and AUS8 using the exact same type of knife. XHP is light years ahead of AUS8. I think/expect BD1 will be somewhere between.

[Koop]

This thread got me thinking - I have two M2LW - one in BD-1 and one in CTS-XHP. I'm a fan of XHP and the M2LW with brown FRCP has become my EDC for a couple of months now. I love hair-poppin' sharp blades, so I touch-up the XHP every week or two.

Today I touched up the XHP, then also hit the BD-1 to equal sharpness. I'm going to carry the BD-1 for next few weeks and see how much real world difference the XHP vs BD-1 makes to me.

I've carried the BD-1 M2LW for two weeks now. First I have to admit that EDC for me is definitely light duty - maybe laughable to some forum members. I don't carry a pocket folder because I need a knife for daily chores - I carry a pocket folder so I have one when I need one.

My use ranges from cutting fruit daily to cutting cardboard a few times a week, opening packages including plastic or shrink wrap, cutting packing tape and an occasional zip tie and opening mail envelopes.

After two weeks of this light duty, the BD-1 is fine for my use. My subjective opinion is XHP holds a more aggressive edge - more toothy if that makes sense. However, the BD-1 is still very sharp. It will cleanly slice a store receipt held between my thumb and fore finger in my left hand with quick downward slice with my right hand. It doesn't shave hair on my arm like it did two weeks ago - it requires a fairly hard application to cut the hair where it would whip through it without effort before.

XHP is still a better blade IMHO, but it not's light years ahead. BD-1 is fine for my use and it's super easy to touch up the blade back to hair popping sharp.

[Nate]

^Nailed it. Pretty much how I feel.

I do cut up a lot of cardboard because I mix it into my compost, and I have young kids so I'm always cutting up food, but even then my day-to-day use is very light. I could probably go a whole year or more not sharpening anything just by grabbing a fresh blade from the collection whenever the current one finally goes dull lol.

[Doc Dan]

Well, now that my Manix 2 in BD-1 has arrived, I will let you guys know what I actually think based on use.

BD-1 does have a bit of vanadium in it. I know that will make a difference. I wonder how much difference can be expected based on percentage of vanadium, or is that something hard to quantify?

[Lefty.Mike]

There are a few tests around bladeforums and youtube. It seems bd-1 is in between vg-10 and 154cm in terms of edge retention. Which means it is better than vg-10 but less than 154cm. https://youtu.be/eD2zglgua-I&t=185s Check out that video, this guy tests a lot of steels and removes as many variables as he can to get a edge retention test.

[kitanis]

I am not sure if this is helpful in the discussion.. but I carry the Byrd Raven 2 in CTS-BD1 in EDC role for quite awhile..

I put the blade to some fairly hard use.. and never had a chip occur with it. Edge retention is better than my Efficient (Which I had chip on me when I cut a zip tie once ) and my Tenacious.

I use the sharpmaker to sharpen it and probably done it four times since I bought the blade nearly two years ago.

I am considering buying a Manix 2 LW.. but I am torn.. I am thinking of trying Maxamet but not sure.

[sal]

Hi Fschloss, lefty-Mike, Kitanis,

Welcome to our forum.

sal

[Doc Dan]

I am not sure if this is helpful in the discussion.. but I carry the Byrd Raven 2 in CTS-BD1 in EDC role for quite awhile..

I put the blade to some fairly hard use.. and never had a chip occur with it. Edge retention is better than my Efficient (Which I had chip on me when I cut a zip tie once ) and my Tenacious.

I use the sharpmaker to sharpen it and probably done it four times since I bought the blade nearly two years ago.

I am considering buying a Manix 2 LW.. but I am torn.. I am thinking of trying Maxamet but not sure.

You should get a Manix 2 no matter what steel it is in. This is one of my favorite Spyderco designs. I like it so much better than any thing else in the size range. It fits my hand like a virtual glove. Go for it.

[kitanis]

Well Doc.

I had an opportunity to buy a brand new Manix 2 LW at a local gun shop. Yes it is only basic CTS-BD1 version.. but I am going to say this.. For the weight... I will deal with it as the dealer was complaining that he was not moving his knives as fast as he was guns lately.

I love the operation... and in the future I will more thank likely buy a Maxamet version, or the G-10 version. But right now.. I am a happy camper.

This is the fourth Spyderco Knife outside of the Byrd knives I own.. I love it.

[arty]

I don't have a knife in this steel, but according to Carpenter, it should have wear resistance about like 440C. It should be a little below Vg10 in wear resistance, but not by much. This would depend on heat treatment, blade geometry, etc. In my experience, VG10 does better than 440C.

[Wanimator]

Wear resistance only marginally matters to me anymore, when I'm actually USING my stuff, the abrasion factors that kill my edge will kill anything instantly. Like, when I was picking pumpkins last week, I wish I would've had BD-1 instead of S30V on my PM2 when the tip plunged into the soil twice. Or when I am processing pounds and pounds of chicken, beef or game and my pocket knife ends up being the tool I use, I unfortunately end up with the plastic cutting board and micro chip the first inch of the blade. You really can't hone that very well, I'd much rather have a fine and or ultra fine triangle stone on me and be able to get that edge back every now and then than be screwed with a ruined edge. That being said I'm looking into HAP-40 and 52100 to remedy this as well.