K390 Rust
- The Mastiff
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Re: K390 Rust
When something salty or corrosive ( fingerprints contain salt) gets on the blade all it takes is humidity. Clean the blades off before putting them up for the day. I use those silicone impregnated cloths bought at box stores in the sporting goods section for gun cleaning as it has some solvents as well as an oil for lifting gunk off the blade.
Before storage clean the blade , dry it then paste wax it to seal the steel. It works better than oil long term. Whatever method you use the most important thing is cleaning the blade first. I never force any corrosion onto the blade. I keep mine satin shiny with less work than it takes to pre corrode it.
Welcome to the forum.
Joe
Before storage clean the blade , dry it then paste wax it to seal the steel. It works better than oil long term. Whatever method you use the most important thing is cleaning the blade first. I never force any corrosion onto the blade. I keep mine satin shiny with less work than it takes to pre corrode it.
Welcome to the forum.
Joe
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Re: K390 Rust
Liquid Cobra wrote:I bought a second K390 Urban, tried to remove the pivot for a blade swap but mine just kept spinning as well. I tried all the usual tricks to get it to come loose to no avail.ZMW wrote:I am new to these types of steels, so I will do a better job of keeping oil on it after use. I may need to send it to you guys to unthread the pivot screw as it just spins when turned, so unable to take it apart and clean out any rust in the pivot. Unless that does not matter...
I don't know if the FRN has a D shaped pivot and I managed to warp it when I went to unscrew, or if it's just a round hole. Either way, I couldn't get it to come loose.
It starts out as a D shaped pivot but due to the loctite you will warp the hole in short order if you try to loosen the pivot. Did the same to one of mine. The second I heated the screw first and had no issues.
Re: K390 Rust
I have no flitz or barkeepers friend at home (I will order) So I used a baking soda paste with aluminum foil crumpled into a "brush" and used that to clean the rust off. Worked pretty well. I have frog lube on hand, so I put that on the blade and tried to get it into the pivot area.
It seems everyone loves Flitz so I will grab that. I used frog lube instead of CLP in case I cut something edible with the knife. No Vaseline on hand, but I will grab some next time I see it.
I will likely send it back to Spyderco to loosen the Pivot. I can hear gritty action when opening/closing. I assume that is rust in the pivot.
Thanks for the advice guys.
It seems everyone loves Flitz so I will grab that. I used frog lube instead of CLP in case I cut something edible with the knife. No Vaseline on hand, but I will grab some next time I see it.
I will likely send it back to Spyderco to loosen the Pivot. I can hear gritty action when opening/closing. I assume that is rust in the pivot.
Thanks for the advice guys.
Re: K390 Rust
Since exposure of pivot and tang really isn't required for their maintenance, what CQI do you seek? Absent red loctite, pivots and tangs are accessible, even if at risk of improper reassembly.adamlau wrote:Such pivots should me made user maintanable!
-Marc (pocketing a Cruwear Military2 today)
“When science changes its opinion, it didn’t lie to you. It learned more.”
“When science changes its opinion, it didn’t lie to you. It learned more.”
Re: K390 Rust
wrdwrght wrote:Since exposure of pivot and tang really isn't required for their maintenance, what CQI do you seek? Absent red loctite, pivots and tangs are accessible, even if at risk of improper reassembly.adamlau wrote:Such pivots should me made user maintanable!
How can one remove, or even inspect for, rust on the tang and pivot without disassembly?
They who dance are thought mad by those who do not hear the music.
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Re: K390 Rust
Toothpaste will also work in a pinch.
Re: K390 Rust
You cant, but Disassembly DOES NOT void the warranty. Now if you put it back together like a Jack*** and mess something up in the process, then that is on you.. But you already knew that.......Bodog wrote:wrdwrght wrote:Since exposure of pivot and tang really isn't required for their maintenance, what CQI do you seek? Absent red loctite, pivots and tangs are accessible, even if at risk of improper reassembly.adamlau wrote:Such pivots should me made user maintanable!
How can one remove, or even inspect for, rust on the tang and pivot without disassembly?
Re: K390 Rust
Yeah, that's how i see it too but the other guy said maintenance could be done without disassembly so I was wondering what he was doing to remove or inspect for rust without disassembly on knives without stainless blades. Was trying to learn something new.mrtodd777 wrote:You cant, but Disassembly DOES NOT void the warranty. Now if you put it back together like a Jack*** and mess something up in the process, then that is on you.. But you already knew that.......Bodog wrote:wrdwrght wrote:Since exposure of pivot and tang really isn't required for their maintenance, what CQI do you seek? Absent red loctite, pivots and tangs are accessible, even if at risk of improper reassembly.adamlau wrote:Such pivots should me made user maintanable!
How can one remove, or even inspect for, rust on the tang and pivot without disassembly?
They who dance are thought mad by those who do not hear the music.
Re: K390 Rust
So far all I've done to mine is wipe it off, with an occasional rinse and dry.
No oil, no rust, and you have to look hard to see the patina.
No oil, no rust, and you have to look hard to see the patina.
Re: K390 Rust
The "other guy" was suggesting that you can adjust (absent rivets or red loctite) the pivot WITHOUT DISASSEMBLY, and that you can lubricate the pivot and tang WITHOUT DISASSEMBLY and avoid making rust an issue (as when Spyderco offered only rivets).
-Marc (pocketing a Cruwear Military2 today)
“When science changes its opinion, it didn’t lie to you. It learned more.”
“When science changes its opinion, it didn’t lie to you. It learned more.”
Re: K390 Rust
This is what I do with my non-stainless. just wipe it down often, I only oil pivot.jpm2 wrote:So far all I've done to mine is wipe it off, with an occasional rinse and dry.
No oil, no rust, and you have to look hard to see the patina.
-Matt a.k.a. Lo_Que, loadedquestions135 I ❤ The P'KAL
"The world of edges has a small doorway in, but opens into a cavern that is both wide and deep." -sal
"The world of edges has a small doorway in, but opens into a cavern that is both wide and deep." -sal
"Ghost hunters scope the edge." -sal
Re: K390 Rust
Why do you keep your knives in the bathroom?
I just don't understand that one....
I just don't understand that one....
Re: K390 Rust
Haha, very true. It is pretty random, but that is where my pocket dump goes. I have always had stainless blades so it was never a thoughtVashHash wrote:Why do you keep your knives in the bathroom?
I just don't understand that one....
Re: K390 Rust
wrdwrght wrote:The "other guy" was suggesting that you can adjust (absent rivets or red loctite) the pivot WITHOUT DISASSEMBLY, and that you can lubricate the pivot and tang WITHOUT DISASSEMBLY and avoid making rust an issue (as when Spyderco offered only rivets).
Ok, that makes more sense. Sure, anyone can drop oil into a pivot. I thought you meant actual tool maintenance like inspections and periodic refinishing like most non-disposable tools get. If the goal is to own a knife in a manner where you oil it and when it stops working you just buy a new tool then yeah, no disassembly is necessary, but if the goal is to own a knife and not view it as disposable junk then disassembly is pretty necessary, especially when talking about non-stainless metals.
I've never owned manual hedge trimmers that needed to be taken apart but then again I've never spent more than a couple of bucks on a set. If I spent a hundred bucks or more on a really nice pair, especially with non-stainless steel blades, I'd want the ability to take it apart to perform maintenance to ensure proper action and clean the pivot rather than have gunky rust and oil sludge hanging out between the blades making a mess.
They who dance are thought mad by those who do not hear the music.
- Larry_Mott
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Re: K390 Rust
Do we know that the hardware on that particular knife is tool steel too? I'd doubt it.. My oldest knife is from 1890 and has never been disassembled so i wouldn't say it is necessary to disassemble knives to keep them in good working order. Most of my friends who do are either gun nuts who tend to think of knives as guns and "have to" field strip them every now and then, or fidgety and obsessively have to disassemble stuff because they can. :)Bodog wrote:wrdwrght wrote:The "other guy" was suggesting that you can adjust (absent rivets or red loctite) the pivot WITHOUT DISASSEMBLY, and that you can lubricate the pivot and tang WITHOUT DISASSEMBLY and avoid making rust an issue (as when Spyderco offered only rivets).
Ok, that makes more sense. Sure, anyone can drop oil into a pivot. I thought you meant actual tool maintenance like inspections and periodic refinishing like most tools get. If the goal is to own a knife in a similar manner to a pair of shears where you oil it and when it stops working you just buy a new tool then yeah, no disassembly is necessary, but if the goal is to own a knife in a similar manner as a car or lawnmower or something then maintenance takes on a different meaning and disassembly is pretty necessary, especially when talking about non-stainless metals.
I've never owned manual hedge trimmers that needed to be taken apart but then again I've never spent more than a couple of bucks on a set. If I spent a hundred bucks or more on a really nice pair, especially with non-stainless steel blades, I'd want the ability to take it apart to maintain proper action and clean the pivot rather than have gunky rust and oil sludge hanging out between the blades making a mess.
"Life is fragile - we should take better care of each other, and ourselves - every day!"
//Eva Mott 1941 - 2019. R.I.P.
//Eva Mott 1941 - 2019. R.I.P.
Re: K390 Rust
You can belittle my approach all you want, but no folding knife I've owned, even in the tropics and subarctic, has ever stopped working, stain-resistant and not.Bodog wrote:If the goal is to own a knife in a manner where you oil it and when it stops working you just buy a new tool then yeah, no disassembly is necessary, but if the goal is to own a knife and not view it as disposable junk then disassembly is pretty necessary, especially when talking about non-stainless metals.
Comparing the maintenance requirements of a folding knife to a car or lawnmower is patently absurd, but you're certainly free to treat your folders, cars, and lawnmowers the same.
-Marc (pocketing a Cruwear Military2 today)
“When science changes its opinion, it didn’t lie to you. It learned more.”
“When science changes its opinion, it didn’t lie to you. It learned more.”
Re: K390 Rust
I sent my Urban back to Spyderco to see if they could fix the spinning pivot screw. They could not fix it, but also said the FRN is damaged from over tightening (which I did not do) so it is not covered, but they could not fix it either way. So, curious message, but bottom line is they could not fix it either. I assume the damaged FRN could be if the Urban has a D pivot screw/frn and when trying to loosen the screw the FRN went from D to O.Liquid Cobra wrote:I bought a second K390 Urban, tried to remove the pivot for a blade swap but mine just kept spinning as well. I tried all the usual tricks to get it to come loose to no avail.ZMW wrote:I am new to these types of steels, so I will do a better job of keeping oil on it after use. I may need to send it to you guys to unthread the pivot screw as it just spins when turned, so unable to take it apart and clean out any rust in the pivot. Unless that does not matter...
I don't know if the FRN has a D shaped pivot and I managed to warp it when I went to unscrew, or if it's just a round hole. Either way, I couldn't get it to come loose.
Spyderco is sending it back to me. But that **** pivot screw
Re: K390 Rust
I don't like inserting myself into "customer relations", but, given the recent reworking of the warranty and ensuing clarifications, I'm surprised you weren't offered a replacement.
As I understand it, you never disassembled your knife, you only tried to adjust the pivot screw, which, because of loctite, resulted in you stripping the screw or FRN.
I don't recall in the previous warranty that adjusting the pivot--so as to get a desired blade swing--was verboten...
You didn't disassemble your knife, right?.
As I understand it, you never disassembled your knife, you only tried to adjust the pivot screw, which, because of loctite, resulted in you stripping the screw or FRN.
I don't recall in the previous warranty that adjusting the pivot--so as to get a desired blade swing--was verboten...
You didn't disassemble your knife, right?.
-Marc (pocketing a Cruwear Military2 today)
“When science changes its opinion, it didn’t lie to you. It learned more.”
“When science changes its opinion, it didn’t lie to you. It learned more.”
Re: K390 Rust
Correct - I was unable to do so. Not a big deal, but I figured they would have the ability in house to loosen that sucker up. But, it may not a loctite issue - I tried a blow dryer to heat it up, and 4-5 more tricks other forum members suggested. That pivot screw is just not going to come undone.wrdwrght wrote:I don't like inserting myself into "customer relations", but, given the recent reworking of the warranty and ensuing clarifications, I'm surprised you weren't offered a replacement.
As I understand it, you never disassembled your knife, you only tried to adjust the pivot screw, which, because of loctite, resulted in you stripping the screw or FRN.
I don't recall in the previous warranty that adjusting the pivot--so as to get a desired blade swing--was verboten...
You didn't disassemble your knife, right?.
I will deal with a rusty pivot. It is what it is.
- Surfingringo
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Re: K390 Rust
Somebody better tell those 70 year old pinned slip joints that my grandfather gave me they are disposable junk...cause I don't think they know.Bodog wrote:If the goal is to own a knife in a manner where you oil it and when it stops working you just buy a new tool then yeah, no disassembly is necessary, but if the goal is to own a knife and not view it as disposable junk then disassembly is pretty necessary, especially when talking about non-stainless metals.
I'm not against anyone disassembling their knife if they want but I think your argument is a bit over the top.