So what's your favorite steel?

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Ankerson
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Re: So what's your favorite steel?

#21

Post by Ankerson »

can't freehand wrote:
Experimentalist wrote:
Uh oh makes me wonder if I will regret my PM2 purchase since it is in S30V. I will probably have to put a microbevel on it to protect it from micro chipping. This is my first foray into S30V land. I guess it depends on the heat treat. If it's tempered to 58 HRC maybe the edge will roll instead of microchip, but a micro bevel can help with edge rolling as well.
From my limited knowledge, the S30V is going to "micro-chip" regardless because its a high carbide steel. If you drop the HRC too low on those steels, you'll experience dramatic carbide tear-away, like with Chris Reeve's knives.

The carbide steels are generally going to chip more often and at a greater rate, that's what comes with the increased wear-resistance.

That hasn't been my experience at all so I don't understand where you are getting your information from.
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Re: So what's your favorite steel?

#22

Post by The Deacon »

Odin's Eye Damasteel would be my first choice. Problem is, almost all of the Spyderco models I like are made in Japan. Unfortunately, the Japanese have a strong aversion when it comes to using non-Japanese steels and the kindest word I can use to describe their damascus patterns is uninspiring. Worse yet, both of Spyderco's Japanese makers use a high contrast etch that turns uninspiring into downright ugly. So among the Japanese steels Spyderco is currently offering, I prefer straight VG-10.

I'll just add that I'm the odd man out here. My theory is that any even halfway decent steel with a reasonably good heat treat is going to hold its edge well enough to satisfy my needs. I've never, for example, had a knife go from razor sharp to butter knife dull while opening a stack of mail, peeling potatoes, or field dressing a deer. Granted, that may only be due to my living alone and never getting really large stacks of mail or needing to peel enough potatoes to feed a regiment, and the most deer I've ever field dressed in a day was two. However, it's all I have to work with because, while I may have crossed that fine line between a hobby and a mental illness as a knife collector, I've never gotten into the whole "obsessively cutting stuff just to see how much stuff I can cut" thing.
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Re: So what's your favorite steel?

#23

Post by can't freehand »

Ankerson wrote:
can't freehand wrote:
Experimentalist wrote:
Uh oh makes me wonder if I will regret my PM2 purchase since it is in S30V. I will probably have to put a microbevel on it to protect it from micro chipping. This is my first foray into S30V land. I guess it depends on the heat treat. If it's tempered to 58 HRC maybe the edge will roll instead of microchip, but a micro bevel can help with edge rolling as well.
From my limited knowledge, the S30V is going to "micro-chip" regardless because its a high carbide steel. If you drop the HRC too low on those steels, you'll experience dramatic carbide tear-away, like with Chris Reeve's knives.

The carbide steels are generally going to chip more often and at a greater rate, that's what comes with the increased wear-resistance.

That hasn't been my experience at all so I don't understand where you are getting your information from.
I borrowed this a while back from a relative. At the time I was skinning animals with some really, really soft 5160 from Ontario, their RD4 and wanted a high carbide fixed blade but didn't feel like paying the money...

http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/CRKGB5 ... own-sheath" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It had horrible edge retention, so I assumed that the low hardness of the S35VN wasn't sufficient to hold in the carbide. I then went googling on the internet and found that Chris Reeve has a bad rep and came across Cliff Stamp's review of the Green Beret in S30V where he apparently had a similar experience...

As for the carbide chipping, that's mainly just me. Of course there's the internet but the internet is usually a doozy. From my experience, S30V and ZDP-189 will chip at times where AUS-8 or n680 won't chip. Like I was prying at the locking mechanism in my car's trunk door the other day with my zdp-189, one wrong contact, just barely and the edge chipped right out. Not a big chip, but it was clearly visible. For me, that's not really a problem, but I guess for other people it may be.
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Re: So what's your favorite steel?

#24

Post by Ankerson »

can't freehand wrote:
Ankerson wrote:
can't freehand wrote:
Experimentalist wrote:
Uh oh makes me wonder if I will regret my PM2 purchase since it is in S30V. I will probably have to put a microbevel on it to protect it from micro chipping. This is my first foray into S30V land. I guess it depends on the heat treat. If it's tempered to 58 HRC maybe the edge will roll instead of microchip, but a micro bevel can help with edge rolling as well.
From my limited knowledge, the S30V is going to "micro-chip" regardless because its a high carbide steel. If you drop the HRC too low on those steels, you'll experience dramatic carbide tear-away, like with Chris Reeve's knives.

The carbide steels are generally going to chip more often and at a greater rate, that's what comes with the increased wear-resistance.

That hasn't been my experience at all so I don't understand where you are getting your information from.
I borrowed this a while back from a relative. At the time I was skinning animals with some really, really soft 5160 from Ontario, their RD4 and wanted a high carbide fixed blade but didn't feel like paying the money...

http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/CRKGB5 ... own-sheath" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It had horrible edge retention, so I assumed that the low hardness of the S35VN wasn't sufficient to hold in the carbide. I then went googling on the internet and found that Chris Reeve has a bad rep and came across Cliff Stamp's review of the Green Beret in S30V where he apparently had a similar experience...

As for the carbide chipping, that's mainly just me. Of course there's the internet but the internet is usually a doozy. From my experience, S30V and ZDP-189 will chip at times where AUS-8 or n680 won't chip. Like I was prying at the locking mechanism in my car's trunk door the other day with my zdp-189, one wrong contact, just barely and the edge chipped right out. Not a big chip, but it was clearly visible. For me, that's not really a problem, but I guess for other people it may be.
That Green Beret isn't a good option for that type of work with the wrong blade geometry, it better suited for what's is designed to for, A Military type knife so I wouldn't expect it to be a pillar of edge retention. I have a Survive 4.1 in M390 that I wouldn't use for that either as an example for the same reasons.

Having said that I have a good amount of personal experience with CRK's S30V and never saw any issues with edge retention, carried an Umnunzaan for a long time as my EDC before I sold it off. Used it at work daily for cardboard, pallet strips, and shrink wrap and never saw any issues even when i used to it pry out nails from pallet jack wheels on various occasions.

Currently my main EDC is a Sebenza 25 in S35VN and I have seen zero issues with that as well.

Prying with ZDP? Well the result that happened was expected.
Last edited by Ankerson on Tue Mar 17, 2015 1:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: So what's your favorite steel?

#25

Post by tvenuto »

can't freehand wrote:Like I was prying
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Re: So what's your favorite steel?

#26

Post by Tdhurl1103 »

My favorite steel is not in the Spyderco lineup: 1095 Crovan

My favorite Spyderco steel is: S30V (only because I only have 3 Spydies, 2 of which are S30V blades)
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Re: So what's your favorite steel?

#27

Post by swigert »

Ive never used a Spyderco steel I was not happy with....

I have used:
VG-10
S30V
S110V
S90V
H1
CTS-XHP
ELMAX
CRU-WEAR
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Re: So what's your favorite steel?

#28

Post by PWork »

Stuart Ackerman wrote:VG10 / N690...

I don't have a lot of experience with N690Co...yet. But from what I've seen so far, it's a top notch performer.
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Re: So what's your favorite steel?

#29

Post by Cliff Stamp »

Experimentalist wrote: ZDP-189 HRC 66 Semi stainless will stain/tarnish in prolonged acidity, Extremely good edge retention
This is a stainless steel.
52100 HRC 63 stainless ? Excellent edge retention
CPM-M4 HRC 62 stainless? Excellent edge retention
Aogami Super Blue HRC 62, semi stainless, will tarnish, Excellent edge retention
These are not stainless steels.

BD-1 HRC 57 high stainless carpenter steel will not easily tarnish, soft, low edge retention, inexpensive
What are the adjectives based on exactly? CTS-DB1 for example can easily be hardened over 60 HRC, the wear resistance is significantly higher than steels such as 52100, slightly lower than ATS-34 type steels. Edge retention depends on what you are cutting and how, so I don't see how you could grade the steels so generally. 52100 for example would have higher push cutting edge retention planing wood than 10V but less slicing cardboard.
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Re: So what's your favorite steel?

#30

Post by Helios »

Serrated h1 has been superb.
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Re: So what's your favorite steel?

#31

Post by Holland »

I wouldn't worry about it chipping... just use the 40 degree settings with the sharp maker and a micro bevel will develop over time. Just don't pry with it or do anything stupid and it will last a lifetime
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Re: So what's your favorite steel?

#32

Post by Experimentalist »

Cliff Stamp wrote:
Experimentalist wrote: ZDP-189 HRC 66 Semi stainless will stain/tarnish in prolonged acidity, Extremely good edge retention
This is a stainless steel.
52100 HRC 63 stainless ? Excellent edge retention
CPM-M4 HRC 62 stainless? Excellent edge retention
Aogami Super Blue HRC 62, semi stainless, will tarnish, Excellent edge retention
These are not stainless steels.

BD-1 HRC 57 high stainless carpenter steel will not easily tarnish, soft, low edge retention, inexpensive
What are the adjectives based on exactly? CTS-DB1 for example can easily be hardened over 60 HRC, the wear resistance is significantly higher than steels such as 52100, slightly lower than ATS-34 type steels. Edge retention depends on what you are cutting and how, so I don't see how you could grade the steels so generally. 52100 for example would have higher push cutting edge retention planing wood than 10V but less slicing cardboard.
Thanks Cliff Stamp you seem to know a lot more than I do on the subject and I really appreciate you correcting my mistakes and filling in some of my knowledge gaps. This is just a hobby for me, something I only recently became interested in.

I just wanted a general reference of steel types for the newbie to help them pick out the right knife steel. As a newbie, I can tell you that without at least a general idea, all of these different steel types are confusing unless you can find one place that gives you the information you need to make an informed decision on which knife steel would be best for you.

For me edge retention is important because I like a sharp knife, I find them easier, less frustrating and more pleasant to use and I don't want to have to sharpen often to have a sharp knife on hand when I need it. So I try to pick a steel that has a high HRC which if I am correct indicates better wear resistance and longer edge retention. I also prefer stainless vs. non stainless which requires less care from it's user and is sharp, stain free and ready to be used when needed, as well as last a long time.
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Re: So what's your favorite steel?

#33

Post by Cliff Stamp »

Experimentalist wrote: So I try to pick a steel that has a high HRC which if I am correct indicates better wear resistance and longer edge retention.


This is a bit complicated, to start this shows a lot of common steels over a range of hardness values and the wear resistance :

Image

Note how typical hardness differences seen in knives of 1-2 HRC points makes very little change. To see a significant difference you need a big change, ~5 HRC points and even this is a small influence compared to the type of steel. Look at D3 compared to W1 for example and how large the wear resistance is in D2 even when much softer than W1.

That big change is due to the type of carbide in D3 (and M2 and F2) which is very different than in the other steels, hence why they have much larger wear resistance values. However this also means they are much harder to grind and so require higher end abrasives which are designed to cut them well.

However before you get caught up in steels realize that the edge angle and grit finish have much larger effects than the steel. Spend a little time trying a few angles and different grit finishes and look at how that effects cutting ability and edge retention. You will quickly see how sharpening something very basic like 420J2 with a very well suited angle/grit can easily out last something like S110V with a stock angle/grit.
I also prefer stainless vs. non stainless which requires less care from it's user and is sharp, stain free and ready to be used when needed, as well as last a long time.
A few general rules, please keep in mind these are just generalizations :

-as Chromium, Molybdenum, and Nitrogen content increases so does corrosion resistance
-as Carbon content decreases, so does corrosion resistance

However, how the steel is hardened can easily influence the corrosion resistance very strongly and by this I mean it would be like comparing someone who doesn't lift to someone who trains on a regular basis. The steel composition is like the genetics, it means the inherent ability is there but if it isn't hardened to bring it out it can be severely compromised. Because in general makers/manufacturers won't tell you this it means there is always a big unknown even if you know the steel precisely.

In general it might seem like it is a bit daunting at first, but like anything, you don't need to know everything in one day. If you spend maybe 5 minutes a day on steels then in a year you are likely to know more than anyone you meet who isn't a metallurgist.
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Re: So what's your favorite steel?

#34

Post by Scroop »

More Spyderco in Elmax please, tough stuff :cool:

Would also like to try some CPM-154 in a Spydie...is that weird?

I really like the SB Endura/Delica, if you stay on top of it, you can get back the edge with ease.
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Re: So what's your favorite steel?

#35

Post by IndianaSpider »

I gotta say I find vg-10 in a folder hard to beat. Affordable too.
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Re: So what's your favorite steel?

#36

Post by Cliff Stamp »

can't freehand wrote: As for the carbide chipping, that's mainly just me.
It isn't just you, it is one of the most basic properties of steels, increased carbide volume lowers toughness (in all aspects) and reduces thin cross section strength (Roman Landes calls this apex stability).

Not only is this well known, the exact reasons why it happens is known and is quantified heavily. This is in fact used to make very tough steels by adjusting the alloy content to prevent carbides from forming (silicon does this for example).

The reasons why carbides lower chip resistance is because of two main reasons, though there are others :

-the bond between the carbides and the martensite can crack

-the carbides themselves are very brittle

Here is a typical high carbide steel :

Image

Those very large carbides can of course form on the edge, here is a cross section :

Image

Note the random distribution of the carbides and just think about how some of those large chunks will hit the edge and some won't. Or in fact don't imagine it, just look at this :

Image

Here you can see not only has the carbide cracked it is also cracking away from the martensite and it will leave a chip. In the higher carbide steels these chips can easily be 10-50 microns which means they are > 0.001" and they start to be visible.

Now before anyone jumps to the conclusion to do away with all carbides, toughness and chip resistance is one of those properties that doesn't give you a lot of benefit if you exceed it. Thus what you need to do is :

-find the steel which just barely has the toughness you need to keep the edge from chipping at the angle/grit finish which maximizes cutting ability/edge retention on a given task

For a camp knife you might like something like H13, but in a kitchen knife all of that toughness would be a tremendous waste and you might like a steel which is far less tough and far less chip resistant, but is far stronger and more wear resistant, A2 for example.

It is going to depend on how you use the knife and for what. Keep in mind that these steels are not made for the fun of making them, they are made because they excel at certain uses. The interesting part then is to get the ones which match your uses.

It might sound complicated to answer this question :

-find the steel which just barely has the toughness you need to keep the edge from chipping at the angle/grit finish which maximizes cutting ability/edge retention on a given task

But it all starts with the same question :

-how did the knife fail

Then adjusting the angle/grit (or cutting method) or steel to remove that failure and then asking the question again. It is an iterative process where each time you ask/answer it, you produce a better knife.
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Re: So what's your favorite steel?

#37

Post by demoncase »

Favourite steel?- Whatever Volvo make the 2014 S60 out of. As it keeps me and my family safe ;)

For blades?- I've got an abiding love for S30V. No scientific basis, just pure heart-felt user bias.
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Re: So what's your favorite steel?

#38

Post by can't freehand »

Cliff Stamp wrote:
It might sound complicated to answer this question :

-find the steel which just barely has the toughness you need to keep the edge from chipping at the angle/grit finish which maximizes cutting ability/edge retention on a given task
I've read on zknives that the carbide content determines how low an angle you can put on a blade. A critical point is supposedly reached when lowering the angle at which carbide-heavy steels can no longer support the apex in any sense, because of the characteristics you point out, and the edge basically collapses onto itself, thus negating the purpose of the abnormally low angle in the first place (increased edge retention). The author suggested 15 degrees being the lowest one should go with S30V. How accurate is all of this?

Also, at what angle can ZDP-189's wear resistance be fully utilized for maximum edge retention without critically compromising the strength of the edge (apex stability)?

For grit, I use DMT fine and extra-fine.
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Re: So what's your favorite steel?

#39

Post by Cliff Stamp »

can't freehand wrote:A critical point is supposedly reached when lowering the angle at which carbide-heavy steels can no longer support the apex in any sense, because of the characteristics you point out, and the edge basically collapses onto itself, thus negating the purpose of the abnormally low angle in the first place (increased edge retention).
This generalization is correct, however this conclusion has issues :
The author suggested 15 degrees being the lowest one should go with S30V.
And this excellent question is complicated :
Also, at what angle can ZDP-189's wear resistance be fully utilized for maximum edge retention without critically compromising the strength of the edge (apex stability)?
Step away from steels for a second and look at 100 m sprinters. The reason I ask to consider this is that we can physically see things obviously, you can't with carbides in steels. Now as a sprinter puts on muscle mass he has the ability to generate more power, this allows him to run faster. Unfortunately the extra muscle weighs more which means he has to generate more power to move it. It also simply gets harder to be explosive and run when you have massive amounts of muscle mass. Then there are the effects of training and what is required to maintain it.

It is easy to understand then that a sprinter will not have the minimum muscle mass nor the maximum, but will be somewhere in the middle. The goal is then to put on enough muscle so that the power is increased, but not so much that the weight slows you down, prevents ideal running technique, or simply becomes too demanding to maintain. Now look at the longer running times, 200m, 400, 1000m, 5 km. The muscle mass tends to start to decrease and by the time you get out to ultra-marathons they look like very different athletes than a 100m sprinter.

It is very similar with knives in that how and what you cut is going to dictate the loads that you put on the knife just like if you run a 5k it is very different than a 100m sprint. The unfortunate thing is that while the sprint and marathon are very well defined, this isn't the case in knife use. If I asked an athlete if he was a sprinter or a marathoner then the answer is very clear. But if I ask you what kind of knife use you typically perform then what would you say? Are there clear labels similar to sprinter vs marathoner?

Here is what I can tell you, ignore the steel for the first part because it makes only a small difference compared to the angle :

Image

and the grit finish :

Image

For the knife you carry/use, adjust the edge angle/grit finish until the performance is maximized and keep in mind when you are doing this how the knife is failing in use. With the type of failure you can then look at different steels :

-do you have to increase the angle because the knife would roll otherwise, look for a stronger steel and a higher carbide volume

-do you have to increase the angle because otherwise the knife will chip, look for a tougher steel with a lower carbide volume

-is the edge very resistant to rolling and chipping but it fails due to just slow wear, look for a higher carbide volume

Because the force you use, the technique you use, what you cut and how all will influence the loads on the edge it simply isn't possible to say 15 dps is the ideal angle for S30V. Here is the only general caution I would make, 15-17 dps are common sharpening angles for felling axes. It is very likely, unless you have very demanding tasks for the knife, that the ideal geometry is much closer to 6-8 dps with a suitable apex bevel.

This angle may sound radical, but just keep in mind that the common $5 Mora knives have a 10-11 dps bevel. The may have issues in the beginning due to the fact they are actually hollow ground right to the apex, and often are over heated, but once that bevel is flattened and heat damaged removed, a 10-11 dps bevel is very strong/durable for a hand held knife.

Again, felling axes are typically 15-17 dps and just think about the impacts they take and if the knife you carry and use will see that level of load. If it doesn't, then it is likely that the optimal angle for performance is going to be a lot lower. This is a Svord with an 8 dps edge bevel, normally runs an apex bevel off of a MXF DMT :

Image

It works very well on foods, paper, cardboard, ropes, plastics, woods, and fabrics. If I was doing drywall, shingles, sods, bones, metals, etc. I would move the angle up to prevent rolling.
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Re: So what's your favorite steel?

#40

Post by Ankerson »

can't freehand wrote:
Cliff Stamp wrote:
It might sound complicated to answer this question :

-find the steel which just barely has the toughness you need to keep the edge from chipping at the angle/grit finish which maximizes cutting ability/edge retention on a given task
I've read on zknives that the carbide content determines how low an angle you can put on a blade. A critical point is supposedly reached when lowering the angle at which carbide-heavy steels can no longer support the apex in any sense, because of the characteristics you point out, and the edge basically collapses onto itself, thus negating the purpose of the abnormally low angle in the first place (increased edge retention). The author suggested 15 degrees being the lowest one should go with S30V. How accurate is all of this?

Also, at what angle can ZDP-189's wear resistance be fully utilized for maximum edge retention without critically compromising the strength of the edge (apex stability)?

For grit, I use DMT fine and extra-fine.

That's going to vary quite a bit depending on the variables so the answer is it depends.

Depending on the HT and tempering process, the actual protocol, blade geometry, and what's actually being cut it can and will vary.

So in the end is best to adjust the edge geometry to the tasks at hand and only you can answer that question based on your real use and how the edge holds up for you.

Something between 15 and 20 degrees per side usually works for most people depending on the actual use.

That said all edges will fail once the limits of the geometry and the steel is surpassed.

It will fail in one of two ways, it will roll or it will chip, steel doesn't matter here, they all will fail.
Last edited by Ankerson on Wed Mar 18, 2015 10:18 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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