Spyderco Forums

I own and prefer the 21 personally. The main reason is the lack of the bushing system in the pivot on the 25 that puts me off. Not to say that I don't think it's a great knife because of that because I own many spydies without that feature also, but when it comes to sebenzas I would always want that feature

Kev83 wrote:I own and prefer the 21 personally. The main reason is the lack of the bushing system in the pivot on the 25 that puts me off. Not to say that I don't think it's a great knife because of that because I own many spydies without that feature also, but when it comes to sebenzas I would always want that feature

I'm with you on this. I like my StarTac which started the new pivot like the 25 (never had the 25 though) but I prefer my 21's bushing system. Reason enough for me to stick with the 21.

I love my 21's, I am unsure about the 25, I would like to handle one.

DRKBC, your photos inspired me-this one, and the one you posted on your 2014 nature hike! I ordered the Blade HQ exclusive 21 with CF inlays! :)

FCM415 wrote:I'm with you on this. I like my StarTac which started the new pivot like the 25 (never had the 25 though) but I prefer my 21's bushing system. Reason enough for me to stick with the 21.

That's what I'm getting at when I say the Sebenza is a signature product. I have an Umnuzaan, which is similar in many respects to a 25, and it is (they are, actually) a really great knife, but they're not in the separate category that the Sebenza design (especially because of its bushing design) is in.

eric m. wrote:DRKBC, your photos inspired me-this one, and the one you posted on your 2014 nature hike! I ordered the Blade HQ exclusive 21 with CF inlays! :)

That's great Eric m that is a beautiful model, I have lusted over it many times! You will be following that tracking number hourly I'm sure.

DRKBC wrote:That's great Eric m that is a beautiful model, I have lusted over it many times! You will be following that tracking number hourly I'm sure.

Yeah! I ordered the full size standard blade model. If I like it I will probably get the small 21 with ironwood inserts, or maybe the snakewood! Thanks for your help! :D

Kev83 wrote:I own and prefer the 21 personally. The main reason is the lack of the bushing system in the pivot on the 25 that puts me off. Not to say that I don't think it's a great knife because of that because I own many spydies without that feature also, but when it comes to sebenzas I would always want that feature

An excellent point.

eric m. wrote:Yeah! I ordered the full size standard blade model. If I like it I will probably get the small 21 with ironwood inserts, or maybe the snakewood! Thanks for your help! :D

That's a great choice, I love both blade styles but the standard blade blends with handle so well. They do an amazing job on that blade, its a work of art.

Sorry just had to throw a couple gratuitous shots in there.. :)

eric m. wrote:Yeah! I ordered the full size standard blade model. If I like it I will probably get the small 21 with ironwood inserts, or maybe the snakewood! Thanks for your help! :D

Possibly too close, but I really like the Micarta inlays. Be aware that Sebenzas can be a sort of disorder. I currently have eight. :o If you like the knife, you might try one of the BG-42 blades. They were run at ~62 Rc and hold a great edge forever - but also take forever to restore if you let them get dull.

If you go to the Chris Reeve Knives website, you'll find this about the Sebenza 25...

http://www.chrisreeve.com/Sebenza-25

Sebenza 25:
Making the Best Even Better

Virtually every year since the inception of the Sebenza in 1987 has seen small, incremental developments, improvements and changes. Celebrating the 25th anniversary of the Sebenza in 2012, Chris brought some new concepts to the Sebenza 25.

•*Large Hollow Grind Technology—the first blade to feature this new grind that blends the best of hollow and flat grinds.
•*Shaped phosphor bronze washer on the lock side brings additional stability to that side of the blade.
•*One-eighth inch ceramic ball acts as the interface between the lock bar and the blade, and doubles to drop into the detent, ensuring the blade stays in place when closed.
•*Larger perforations in the washers reduce friction, store more lubricant and offer space for small dirt
particles to move away from the blade/washer 
interface, helping to prevent blade action from 
becoming “sticky”.
•*416 Heat treated stainless steel stop pin is interference fit into the lock side of the handle.
•*Asymmetrical pattern thumb serrations on a curved thumb ramp of the blade give excellent purchase.
At 0.140” (3.56mm), the blade is more robust than previous Sebenza models.

JNewell wrote:Possibly too close, but I really like the Micarta inlays. Be aware that Sebenzas can be a sort of disorder. I currently have eight. :o If you like the knife, you might try one of the BG-42 blades. They were run at ~62 Rc and hold a great edge forever - but also take forever to restore if you let them get dull.

No worse a disorder than my Spyderco one! :rolleyes:

eric m. wrote:No worse a disorder than my Spyderco one! :rolleyes:

Not worse by any means, but certainly more expen$ive... :o

I read something the other day about CRK advising against flicking the blade open...as far as Ti framelock wear goes, I would assume this is the reason, but when you question the longevity of Ti framelocks, everyone is quick to site CRK for having made them for so many years. It makes me wonder if they ever made a CRK flipper, how would it change?

Flicking can be ambiguous. What they discourage is wrist flicking, which can be pretty hard on stop pins and locks. So-called thumb flicking (which is pretty difficult with most Sebenzas due to their tight tolerances) is not an issue at all.

JNewell wrote:Flicking can be ambiguous. What they discourage is wrist flicking, which can be pretty hard on stop pins and locks. So-called thumb flicking (which is pretty difficult with most Sebenzas due to their tight tolerances) is not an issue at all.

I agree, you can do it but it is really not the way the knife was designed to open. The design and the thumbstud really come together to make them not the most satisfying knives to flick open. More of a nice smooth motion and then a quality thunk when it locks up.

DRKBC wrote:I agree, you can do it but it is really not the way the knife was designed to open. The design and the thumbstud really come together to make them not the most satisfying knives to flick open. More of a nice smooth motion and then a quality thunk when it locks up.

You're preaching to the choir. I've never understood the preoccupation with wrist flicks, unless it's intended to generate YouTube views. :rolleyes:

DRKBC wrote:I agree, you can do it but it is really not the way the knife was designed to open. The design and the thumbstud really come together to make them not the most satisfying knives to flick open. More of a nice smooth motion and then a quality thunk when it locks up.

Which is great until the lock finally does chip and break and they won't cover you under warranty because they accuse you of flicking. As far as I'm concerned Chris Reeve and Co. are too high and mighty to assume their products can break. Not interested in buying from them anymore; I'll stick to giving money to reputable characters like Sal

Splice wrote:Which is great until the lock finally does chip and break and they won't cover you under warranty because they accuse you of flicking. As far as I'm concerned Chris Reeve and Co. are too high and mighty to assume their products can break. Not interested in buying from them anymore; I'll stick to giving money to reputable characters like Sal

They're very explicit. No amount of thumb-flicking affects the warranty.