Bradley Air impressions

Discuss Spyderco's products and history.
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kbuzbee
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#21

Post by kbuzbee »

buckthorn wrote:Is anyone concerned that this beautiful little gents knife has a blade that will rust? If it had one of the stain resistant blade steels that Spyderco uses I'd buy one immediately but I'm not eager to have such an attractive object be subject to rusting.
Nope. CPM M4 is my favorite steel these days. Takes a lovely patina. No worries.

Ken
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#22

Post by Irelander »

I agree that a small pocket clip would be nice. I'm not a fan of having a knife flop around loose in my pocket. I usually have other things in my pockets that I don't want to me scratched by a pocket knife.
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#23

Post by DeathBySnooSnoo »

kbuzbee wrote:Nope. CPM M4 is my favorite steel these days. Takes a lovely patina. No worries.

Ken
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#24

Post by sbwings »

This drooling is not doing my keyboard any good!
A Whole Bunch of Spydies! :D
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dj moonbat
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#25

Post by dj moonbat »

buckthorn wrote:Is anyone concerned that this beautiful little gents knife has a blade that will rust? If it had one of the stain resistant blade steels that Spyderco uses I'd buy one immediately but I'm not eager to have such an attractive object be subject to rusting.
I have a towel impregnated with Corrosion-X, and wipe it down periodically. I have no worries about corrosion.

The tool steel makes this a fantastic whittling knife. Even at sub-30 bevel angles, an edge lasts a long time.
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gooeytek
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#26

Post by gooeytek »

I don't understand the worry about CPM-M4 rusting. I've used a CPM-M4 Military and Gayle Bradley for the better part of 2 years now as part of my EDC lineup, and the GB had yet to develop a noticeable patina. I forced a patina on the M4 Military, but that was just purely for aesthetics.

A couple of nights ago, I experimented with Muriatic acid and decided to etch some blades. I did the Air, Gayle Bradley, a PPT, and a Kershaw Rake. The GB's CPM-M4 blade was left in the acid for 30 minutes, and came out still looking satiny, with some darkening. The Air had its blade hung above the acid along with the GB liners, just getting the fumes to do the etching, and received a lighter patina while hanging for about an hour. The stainless liners of the GB turned a little dull, which is what I was after. They seemed to be more affected by the fumes more than the Air's blade. The Kershaw Rake with the composite blade didn't do so well, and there was pitting on the 14C28N spine, but the CPM-D2 edge remained unaffected. I had to take it back to the grinder and re-polish the blade. The PPT's S30V greyed and dulled after 2 hours in the soak, which is what I wanted. For a non-stainless that's supposedly very prone to rusting, I think CPM-M4 held up surprisingly well in the etching solution. The stainless surgical forceps I used to remove the parts from the etching solution, despite being constantly rinsed after being in the solution, got dull and was noticeably etched more than the carbon steels.

Image
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#27

Post by DeathBySnooSnoo »

gooeytek wrote:I don't understand the worry about CPM-M4 rusting. I've used a CPM-M4 Military and Gayle Bradley for the better part of 2 years now as part of my EDC lineup, and the GB had yet to develop a noticeable patina. I forced a patina on the M4 Military, but that was just purely for aesthetics.

A couple of nights ago, I experimented with Muriatic acid and decided to etch some blades. I did the Air, Gayle Bradley, a PPT, and a Kershaw Rake. The GB's CPM-M4 blade was left in the acid for 30 minutes, and came out still looking satiny, with some darkening. The Air had its blade hung above the acid along with the GB liners, just getting the fumes to do the etching, and received a lighter patina while hanging for about an hour. The stainless liners of the GB turned a little dull, which is what I was after. They seemed to be more affected by the fumes more than the Air's blade. The Kershaw Rake with the composite blade didn't do so well, and there was pitting on the 14C28N spine, but the CPM-D2 edge remained unaffected. I had to take it back to the grinder and re-polish the blade. The PPT's S30V greyed and dulled after 2 hours in the soak, which is what I wanted. For a non-stainless that's supposedly very prone to rusting, I think CPM-M4 held up surprisingly well in the etching solution. The stainless surgical forceps I used to remove the parts from the etching solution, despite being constantly rinsed after being in the solution, got dull and was noticeably etched more than the carbon steels.

Image
Thats is a really good look...just the right amount of patina. Nice work!
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gooeytek
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#28

Post by gooeytek »

Thanks man, it was fun doing it but I was also worried at the same time that I might screw it up. Turns out, CPM-M4 seems to hold up reasonably well against corrosion, and when it does get affected by it, the powder metallurgy adds a level of forgiveness and is more resistant to pitting than some other steels.
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