coarse or mirror polished edges ?

[unit]

It is a matter of opinion and/or unique answer based on the user/uses/preferences.

I generally like polished, hair whittling edges, but it is because of the way I use a knife, what I use it for, and...basic preferences that are of the same nature as the preferences I hold for blade shape or even handle color.

Some will test and find that a coarse edge is best for them, others will test and claim a "refined" coarse edge is best, and others will....well, you know the list goes on. They are all right!

My findings indicate that a VERY coarse unrefined edge will grab/bite and cut like a rabid badger...but the edge will not last as long. Who cares how long the edge lasts if you need that type of cutting?

I have also found that for many steels, maintaining a hair whittling edge requires daily maintenance, but the precision cutting and control offered by a polished blade that glides in the direction you will it is my preference...so who cares about the added maintenance?

Factory edges are essentially a "refined" coarse edge...which offers a nice compromise between the two extremes I laid out above. Many find that these edges seem stable and will perform at a fairly high level for a fairly long time (thus the reason good companies deliver their blades finished like this). They won't cut as aggressively as a super coarse edge, and they will not offer the precision of a high polish, but they will put a smile on the general public's face for a long duty cycle before they need sharpening.

[chuck_roxas45]

It is a matter of opinion and/or unique answer based on the user/uses/preferences.

I generally like polished, hair whittling edges, but it is because of the way I use a knife, what I use it for, and...basic preferences that are of the same nature as the preferences I hold for blade shape or even handle color.

Some will test and find that a coarse edge is best for them, others will test and claim a "refined" coarse edge is best, and others will....well, you know the list goes on. They are all right!

My findings indicate that a VERY coarse unrefined edge will grab/bite and cut like a rabid badger...but the edge will not last as long. Who cares how long the edge lasts if you need that type of cutting?

I have also found that for many steels, maintaining a hair whittling edge requires daily maintenance, but the precision cutting and control offered by a polished blade that glides in the direction you will it is my preference...so who cares about the added maintenance?

Factory edges are essentially a "refined" coarse edge...which offers a nice compromise between the two extremes I laid out above. Many find that these edges seem stable and will perform at a fairly high level for a fairly long time (thus the reason good companies deliver their blades finished like this). They won't cut as aggressively as a super coarse edge, and they will not offer the precision of a high polish, but they will put a smile on the general public's face for a long duty cycle before they need sharpening.

Words of wisdom right there.

[jackknifeh]

It is a matter of opinion and/or unique answer based on the user/uses/preferences.

I generally like polished, hair whittling edges, but it is because of the way I use a knife, what I use it for, and...basic preferences that are of the same nature as the preferences I hold for blade shape or even handle color.

Some will test and find that a coarse edge is best for them, others will test and claim a "refined" coarse edge is best, and others will....well, you know the list goes on. They are all right!

My findings indicate that a VERY coarse unrefined edge will grab/bite and cut like a rabid badger...but the edge will not last as long. Who cares how long the edge lasts if you need that type of cutting?

I have also found that for many steels, maintaining a hair whittling edge requires daily maintenance, but the precision cutting and control offered by a polished blade that glides in the direction you will it is my preference...so who cares about the added maintenance?

Factory edges are essentially a "refined" coarse edge...which offers a nice compromise between the two extremes I laid out above. Many find that these edges seem stable and will perform at a fairly high level for a fairly long time (thus the reason good companies deliver their blades finished like this). They won't cut as aggressively as a super coarse edge, and they will not offer the precision of a high polish, but they will put a smile on the general public's face for a long duty cycle before they need sharpening.

Words of wisdom right there.

I agree completely as well. I've always been able to get my pocket knives sharp enough to shave arm hair but only recently have been able to whittle a hair. Like Unit said, that level of sharp doesn't last all that long. But the good working edge does last. But mainly, who needs a hair whittling edge on a pocket knife? Not me even though I like it. Since I didn't know anything about different types of edges (mirror, toothy, etc.) all my life and never once couldn't get a job done because I didn't know about it, that would suggest it's not an essential requirement for pocket knives. It does make cutting easier though. Can you imagine what the mountain men used when trapping beaver or hunting grizzlies about 300 years ago? :eek: I could be wrong but I bet they didn't have a Sharpmaker on their pack horse. :D

Jack

[Evil D]

I only spend the time to polish out the very edge, micro bevel, whatever you wanna call it. After i've taken the whole bevel to my finest stone i raise my angle very slightly to hit just the edge with 1000 grit and that's good enough for me.

[unit]

Thanks guys.

I pretty much quit making videos on the subject, but I am still conducting experiments all the time. I would urge anyone with doubts to actually conduct some simple experiments with your gear. Some fairly subtle changes that you can make yourself WILL make a notable difference for some cuts (and necessary associated maintenance). The key is how *YOU* use/appreciate your knives.

Some guys use more force to get the job done...some guys do more work before the job presents, so that they do not have to use as much force.

[STAK]

I agree completely as well. I've always been able to get my pocket knives sharp enough to shave arm hair but only recently have been able to whittle a hair. Like Unit said, that level of sharp doesn't last all that long. But the good working edge does last. But mainly, who needs a hair whittling edge on a pocket knife? Not me even though I like it. Since I didn't know anything about different types of edges (mirror, toothy, etc.) all my life and never once couldn't get a job done because I didn't know about it, that would suggest it's not an essential requirement for pocket knives. It does make cutting easier though. Can you imagine what the mountain men used when trapping beaver or hunting grizzlies about 300 years ago? :eek: I could be wrong but I bet they didn't have a Sharpmaker on their pack horse. :D

Jack

:spyder: They had 'original'-sharpening-'stones' from the rivers around :D . . . . :spyder:

[STAK]

I only spend the time to polish out the very edge, micro bevel, whatever you wanna call it. After i've taken the whole bevel to my finest stone i raise my angle very slightly to hit just the edge with 1000 grit and that's good enough for me.

:spyder: That is exactly what i wrote previously . . . . Totally agree with you, thanks for posting :) . . . . :spyder:

[STAK]

Thanks guys.

I pretty much quit making videos on the subject, but I am still conducting experiments all the time. I would urge anyone with doubts to actually conduct some simple experiments with your gear. Some fairly subtle changes that you can make yourself WILL make a notable difference for some cuts (and necessary associated maintenance). The key is how *YOU* use/appreciate your knives.

Some guys use more force to get the job done...some guys do more work before the job presents, so that they do not have to use as much force.

:spyder: Kevin i always appreciate your wisdom :) . . . . Your words make sense to me and believe me i read all of them thoughtfully, thanks for sharing :) . . . . :spyder:

[Kev-Man]

I am a little late to this discussion but I carry one of each. I will usually carry a Salt 1 sharpened to a 800-1200 grit edge and a Stretch ZDP189 sharpened to a polished edge, 8000 to 10000 grit and stropped. Each has its advantages, depending on the task.

Kev.

[STAK]

I am a little late to this discussion but I carry one of each. I will usually carry a Salt 1 sharpened to a 800-1200 grit edge and a Stretch ZDP189 sharpened to a polished edge, 8000 to 10000 grit and stropped. Each has its advantages, depending on the task.

Kev.

:spyder: No you are not late, welcome Kev to this thread :) . . . . My EDC, MANIX2 CTS-BD30P, is reprofiled down to 17deg per side and polished up to 1000grit, edge and secondary micro-bevel . . . . You use both for your EDC tasks or one is the user and the other is for backup or PD? :confused: . . . . I usually carry two SPIDIES, one that i already describe and use it for almost all tasks, and another MANIX2 S30V FFG DLC STAG ARMS for PD, also reprofiled down to 17deg per side and polished up to 1000grit :eek: . . . . Thanks for your post Kev :) . . . . :spyder:

[jackknifeh]

:spyder: No you are not late, welcome Kev to this thread :) . . . . My EDC, MANIX2 CTS-BD30P, is reprofiled down to 17deg per side and polished up to 1000grit, edge and secondary micro-bevel . . . . You use both for your EDC tasks or one is the user and the other is for backup or PD? :confused: . . . . I usually carry two SPIDIES, one that i already describe and use it for almost all tasks, and another MANIX2 S30V FFG DLC STAG ARMS for PD, also reprofiled down to 17deg per side and polished up to 1000grit :eek: . . . . Thanks for your post Kev :) . . . . :spyder:

I get the feeling you like Manix knives. :)

What is PD? I hope it's not something that makes me feel too stupid. :o

Jack

[Evil D]

A toothy edge can be thought of as a sort of micro serrated edge. I seem to recall Spyderco describing their spyderedge as having tiny serrations between the serrations...or something along those lines (that was the literature that duped me into buying my Native with in SE lol).

This is why i don't agree with Murray Carter's three finger sharpness test. I know Murray must know so much more about this topic than i do, but from what i've experienced...a toothy edge will give the same results as he describes a scary sharp edge as having.

[jackknifeh]

A toothy edge can be thought of as a sort of micro serrated edge. I seem to recall Spyderco describing their spyderedge as having tiny serrations between the serrations...or something along those lines (that was the literature that duped me into buying my Native with in SE lol).

This is why i don't agree with Murray Carter's three finger sharpness test. I know Murray must know so much more about this topic than i do, but from what i've experienced...a toothy edge will give the same results as he describes a scary sharp edge as having.

I'd like to be with Mr. Carter and have him show me two knives that have a different feeling to him. Then maybe I would know what he is talking about. Other than that possibility I can't get any benefit from that test.

Jack

[STAK]

I get the feeling you like Manix knives. :)

What is PD? I hope it's not something that makes me feel too stupid. :o

Jack

:spyder: MANIX is ny new LOVE after 15years of ENDURA-LOVE :D :eek: . . . . Come on Jack, PD stands for Personal Defence :) . . . . :spyder:

[STAK]

A toothy edge can be thought of as a sort of micro serrated edge. I seem to recall Spyderco describing their spyderedge as having tiny serrations between the serrations...or something along those lines (that was the literature that duped me into buying my Native with in SE lol).

This is why i don't agree with Murray Carter's three finger sharpness test. I know Murray must know so much more about this topic than i do, but from what i've experienced...a toothy edge will give the same results as he describes a scary sharp edge as having.

:spyder: That is why i always sharpen my EDC with a micro-bevel up to 1000grit, usualy with FINE SPYDERCO rod just to have those cutting 'tooths' :eek: . . . . My PD MANIX2 has been sharpened without secondary micro-bevel up to 1000grit on the EDGE-PRO :) . . . . :spyder:

[jackknifeh]

:spyder: MANIX is ny new LOVE after 15years of ENDURA-LOVE :D :eek: . . . . Come on Jack, PD stands for Personal Defence :) . . . . :spyder:

Sounds good. I'm used to seeing SD for Self Defense.

Jack

[STAK]

Sounds good. I'm used to seeing SD for Self Defense.

Jack

:spyder: Everybody talks about SD so much and it seems something like VERY BAD thing, so i talk about PD, it is 'new', 'improved' and not so bad as the SD thing :D :D :D . . . . Nice talking to you Jack :) . . . . :spyder:

[Ankerson]

I'd like to be with Mr. Carter and have him show me two knives that have a different feeling to him. Then maybe I would know what he is talking about. Other than that possibility I can't get any benefit from that test.

Jack

That's just his vers of what some of us call an educated thumb.

He just uses 3 fingers instead, same principle though.

[chuck_roxas45]

I'd like to be with Mr. Carter and have him show me two knives that have a different feeling to him. Then maybe I would know what he is talking about. Other than that possibility I can't get any benefit from that test.

Jack

I dunno Jack, at first I did think that that Carter test was a bit silly. At the moment though, I'm feeling silly because I think I can feel a difference. I'm even imagining that I can feel a difference in bite between S30V and 20CP or M4, in knives I've sharpened to the same degree as much as my skills allow.

Yup, I'm feeling silly because I know I can't be this sensitive.

[Slash]

If you're stabbing/prying with your blade what does it matter?