Spyderco Forums

Ookami I definately use my SEs in the A way on everything.A picture truly says a thousand words.

cckw wrote:Even though you are convinced I'll add my bit. I think an SE is the perfect farmer rancher knife. when you need to get something cut for sure right now, it is the knife. I gifted one each to 2 different farmers that lets me hunt deer. I have talked to one since then, and he was super happy with it. the other I haven't talked to since the day I gave it to him. But he was very pleased that day.

I grew up farming and ranching, and I came back "home" to the farming and ranching community after spending 15 years of city life. I know many horsemen who won't be without a SE Spydie in their pocket. It is generally recognized that SE blades will cut a rope quicker when one gets a digit in a dally (the wrap of the rope around the saddle horn). In fact, that is probably the primary reason that I thought all Spydies were serrated, so you're probably right on the money giving SE as gifts, and that's mighty nice of you too.

I've always been a throttle twister- horses being too high maintenance and way too slow. Never could stand country music either, so I've always been a little different from my brethren. Now I will have at least one knife like theirs. :D

I want to add one point. It is almost impossible to dull all of a serrated edge. If you took a serrated edge and drug it across 10 feet of stone, you would dull all of the points. You would still have a lot of sharp cutting edge. I think that this is a very important factor in appreciating serrated edges.

A plain edge would cry. :)

yablanowitz wrote:Your paint-fu is strong, Ookami-wan. I understand now. :D

Seriously. How long did it take to make those serrations in Paint? Good work.

Thanks for your work Ookami! Great point most don't know. I recently stumbled upon this and felt I discover the atom, lol.

I have links someplace from YouTube where a few guys beat on a SE and PE blade of a Byrd to see how the edge would hold. They cut a steel bar for minutes. The SE won.

Still, PE has a great appeal! I still prefer it over SE for most chores. That said, you commute in the Civic and bring the Chevelle to the drags.

I see something different. I am looking at a little applied science here.
On a SE , only the points of the serrations contact the surface being cut versus a plain edge. This allows the cutting force to be applied over a smaller area and puts more force on the points of the serrations. On the PE it has a large contact area spreading the cutting force. Try to cut a plastic bottle or piece of wood with a PE. It will leave a line cut into the surface, but does not really cut very deap. Cut it with a SE knife and you will see a noticable difference in the depth of cut, due to more force being applied to a smaller area. The advantage to the SE is that you are able to cut materials that are more cut resistant to a PE knife.

The SE also has more cutting surface area than the PE. (this was mentioned Earlier)
There are certain things a SE does really well over the PE. Fiberous material, Seatbelts, rope, plastic, cardboard, vines, tree pruning, etc.

Don't expect to shave with a SE or wittle wood They do not excel at that. For all other tasks, carry a PE in the other pocket.

Just carry one exclusively for a while.

It's kinda like when you first start carrying a knife all of the time and realize how useful they are.

Hello,

I read a lot of the post about this but not all so I apologize if I repeat someone.

One method to think about is only sharpen the flat side of the blade. Make sure your sharpener hits the points and all the way to the deepest part of the serrations (very very low angle). This will of course create a burr on the other side of the blade. Then use a very fine serrated edge sharpener to take the burr off inside the serrations. This way the points stay sharp and the serrations will stay the same depth. I just found out about this method and haven't tried it yet but it seems to make sense and comes from what I think is a reliable source.

Jack

jackknifeh wrote:Hello,

I read a lot of the post about this but not all so I apologize if I repeat someone.

One method to think about is only sharpen the flat side of the blade. Make sure your sharpener hits the points and all the way to the deepest part of the serrations (very very low angle). This will of course create a burr on the other side of the blade. Then use a very fine serrated edge sharpener to take the burr off inside the serrations. This way the points stay sharp and the serrations will stay the same depth. I just found out about this method and haven't tried it yet but it seems to make sense and comes from what I think is a reliable source.

Jack

This sounds like what I was expecting to hear- basically an accurate means of taking metal off both sides of the blade, following the original grinds.

I expected to be able to use the EdgePro on the "flat" side, and remove the burr with the ceramic made to fit the serrations, but it seems like I'm learning of more than one pattern of serrations, or at least more than one depth of serrations.

Regardless, Spyderco will sharpen their serrations, right? What's the cost?

If the serrations are not excessively worn or damaged by abuse or improper sharpening, send $5.00 to cover return shipping.

I carry a SE Military... and it makes very short work of plastic ties and shipping bags and tape... I feel like a warrior in my pharmacy!