Spyderco Forums

I use a sharpmaker.

I have a triangle steel file that I zip tie to the sharpmaker stones to remove the knicks and stuff in the blade. Didn't feel like buying the diamond stones.

Spyderco benchstones, medium and fine.

90% sharpmaker 10% stones. The sharpmaker kicks butt.

skcusloa wrote:I use a sharpmaker.

I have a triangle steel file that I zip tie to the sharpmaker stones to remove the knicks and stuff in the blade. Didn't feel like buying the diamond stones.

Good idea with the zips. :cool:

i have always used the sharpmaker. that should definitely be an option on the poll here.

thebestnoobcake wrote:I just touched up my blades yesterday and as I sat there slowly grinding away, I began to wonder how other people sharpen their knives.

Personally, (cos I'm a cheapass =) I use sandpaper, an old broken tile and a desk lamp.

So.. how do you do it?

sand paper is underrated. This is how I do mine to a fine grit. even the great Bob Terzuola has said he has used paper and glass.

1 x 30 Harbor Freight belt sander w/ many Lee Valley Belts
3 strops (Lee Valley green, MAAS, plain)
Sandpaper, various grits
Sharpmaker
Couple diamond sharpeners
Lansky dogbone - field

In order of use :p

I consider the Sharpmaker to go under the "magic" category, so that's what I voted for.

Start off with a Diamond hone to set the edge, then the full set of Spyderco benchstones to polish it up, and finish off with a good stropping.

Spend as much time on the back bevel as the edge bevel and you'll have a nice convex edge to boot!

I hand sharpen my blades with a Whetstone. There is a rough side if your blade is really dull, and a fine side for lazer sharp edges. Generally i will sharpen dry, but occasionally, i will add oil (hence the name whetstone) and it works relatively well, but i am looking into getting a sharpmaker soon. Arent they like $30 + rods?

Nifty_Nives wrote:I hand sharpen my blades with a Whetstone. There is a rough side if your blade is really dull, and a fine side for lazer sharp edges. Generally i will sharpen dry, but occasionally, i will add oil (hence the name whetstone) and it works relatively well, but i am looking into getting a sharpmaker soon. Arent they like $30 + rods?

Sharpmaker's are about $50 depending on where you go, I got mine on Amazon for $50 shipped.

Canis

Sharpmaker mostly, or a Sieger long life artificial ruby rod, works like a charm

I sharpen on Japanese water stones for most blades and the sharpmaker for my recurve blades and serrations.

Spyderco 701 Profile Med/Fine

I use the sharpmaker - just got diamond rods for reprofiling. Im afraid, though, of losing what little freehand sharpening skill I had...

EdgePro for large kitchen and hard to sharpen knives. Sharpmaker for quickies....

Benchstones, ceramics (sometimes), strops, and always steels - freehand only.

- best wishes, Jazz.

As a long time woodworker I've accumulated many devices, sanders, stones and techniques, combinations of which are satisfactory but none perfect. For my EDC Spydercos I start with a sharp factory edge and strop frequently (once a week, at least) using one micron DMT diamond paste rubbed into the surface of a 3" wide x 12" long x 2" thick block of MDF (with the surface of the block first lightly flat sanded to P2000 grit). This is fine for everyday chores (not fine woodworking). For a good discussion of the stropping process see the stropping section here:http://www.pinewoodforge.com/sharpening.html

vampyrewolf wrote:Lets see... what have I sharpened on...

benchstones, files, sandpaper (flat or around a dowel), dremel, 6-30" grinder, car window, coffee mug... aligned my edge with metal counter tops a few times...

My usual sharpening is done freehand with 200/300 & 500/800 stones, spydie 303mf, 2.0 (rough side) and 0.5 (smooth side) micron paste on my strop.

Yeah, inprovisation all the way! Don't forget a newspaper and your belt if it's leather.

When i have it at hand, I use a Fallkniven DC4 diamond/ceramic stone.

My sharpening equipment

• Norton fine / coarse stone - for when I've really dulled my blade
• 701 profile stones - I use these for 95% of all my sharpening
• Lansky "dogbone" - in the field
• Std Lansky kit - Used very rarely, usually if I'm having trouble establishing the desired angle when reprofiling.

:

I tend to stay away from sandpaper these days, only because my trailing edge sharpening skills really need improving. I've royally screwed up a couple of blades using this method with a heavy hand.

Jez.