Delica Lego Redux
As it happens, I have just done the Lego thing with my Endura ZDP because it REALLY needed some cleaning :)
The method you described it similar to mine, but I do have some little suggestions to make the reassembly even easier.
(What you need to have in addition to the list already given is a zip tie.)
When screwing the complete handle together (step 1), do include the locking bar and the spring instantly
BUT
do not use the pivot pin yet. That way, you can edit out step 2 - 4, and you do not have the problem with inserting the locking bar against the spring pressure.
-> That way, you have the knive handle completed and you have only the blade, the washers and the pivot pin left.
Now you take the zip tie and zip it around the knife handle to keep the locking bar pressed down completely as if you would do with your thumb.
Now, you can insert the (taped ;-) blade more easily just like described (step 6-end).
It worked fine for me! :D
Dennis
The method you described it similar to mine, but I do have some little suggestions to make the reassembly even easier.
(What you need to have in addition to the list already given is a zip tie.)
When screwing the complete handle together (step 1), do include the locking bar and the spring instantly
BUT
do not use the pivot pin yet. That way, you can edit out step 2 - 4, and you do not have the problem with inserting the locking bar against the spring pressure.
-> That way, you have the knive handle completed and you have only the blade, the washers and the pivot pin left.
Now you take the zip tie and zip it around the knife handle to keep the locking bar pressed down completely as if you would do with your thumb.
Now, you can insert the (taped ;-) blade more easily just like described (step 6-end).
It worked fine for me! :D
Dennis
- krazichinaman
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dmrllgr wrote:I would tape the blade during assembly. Great pictures and good explanations.
I would also suggest the same thing. Just a simple piece of tape on the edge should work.
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- SimpleIsGood229
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As an alternate method, reassemble the knife 'sandwich style' INCLUDING the blade, washers, and blade pivot BUT EXCLUDING the lock and lock pivot barrel.
Put a little extra tension on the blade (via the pivot screw) to prevent it from flopping around, then slip the lock into position (pressure from a couple fingers should be enough) and slide the lock pivot pin into place. Secure the lock pivot pin, adjust the action to your liking, and put it in your pocket.
In other words, steps 2 & 5-7 are included in step 1. Steps 3, 4, & 8 are then performed as described.
That's it. With a little practice, it takes less time to do then to describe.
Put a little extra tension on the blade (via the pivot screw) to prevent it from flopping around, then slip the lock into position (pressure from a couple fingers should be enough) and slide the lock pivot pin into place. Secure the lock pivot pin, adjust the action to your liking, and put it in your pocket.
In other words, steps 2 & 5-7 are included in step 1. Steps 3, 4, & 8 are then performed as described.
That's it. With a little practice, it takes less time to do then to describe.
- The CoPilot
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This may be a silly question, but does anybody know the process (steps) of how the knifes are originally assembled in Seki-City? Is is similar to these reassembly steps?
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i believe they go for the "sandwich" way for knives that have 2 separate handles pieces (delica 4) and this thread's way for knives that have a 1 piece handle (salt or frn native).The CoPilot wrote:This may be a silly question, but does anybody know the process (steps) of how the knifes are originally assembled in Seki-City? Is is similar to these reassembly steps?
Alexandre.
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Nice tutorial, Wouter; that was exactly what I did for putting my Delica 4 into one piece, except I only put the other liner on then the blade then the other FRN.
Actually, I have taken my Delica 4 apart for more than 10 times in less a week. Why? My D4 is way too tight (loosen the pivot --> increase blade play; tighten the pivot --> my thumb hurts and still have blade play) and the blade shifts to the right side after opening it up, and I tried to use different methods but nothing helps... Guess what, after removing the washers, all problem goes away... Weird, right? :rolleyes:
Actually, I have taken my Delica 4 apart for more than 10 times in less a week. Why? My D4 is way too tight (loosen the pivot --> increase blade play; tighten the pivot --> my thumb hurts and still have blade play) and the blade shifts to the right side after opening it up, and I tried to use different methods but nothing helps... Guess what, after removing the washers, all problem goes away... Weird, right? :rolleyes:
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- Mr Blonde
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Sounds like a perfect addition to this little knowledge base! One of those obvious things that makes me go "why didn't I think of that!". It would have meant less cursing! :DMurdoc wrote:Now you take the zip tie and zip it around the knife handle to keep the locking bar pressed down completely as if you would do with your thumb.Now, you can insert the (taped ;-) blade more easily just like described (step 6-end).
It worked fine for me! :D
Dennis
Wouter
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Actually, I don't think it will. I suspect that the pin sizes on the D4's frame and the Tasman's/Harpy's blade won't match up. They are both pinned knives right? Plus, I don't think the Locking bar would match up with the Tasman's blade. Perhaps a real custom maker like STR could help you out.SimpleIsGood229 wrote:Awesome job, Wouter! Do you have any idea whether it's possible to put a Harpy or Tasman blade on a D4 frame?
Wouter
- Mr Blonde
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The blade play is the same as it was before the switch (with the BRG ZDP D4). Just a hint of vertical play when a lot of pressure was put on the edge. The kind you only feel (and cannot see BTW) when you're really looking for it. I don't consider it a flaw. I checked for this specifically during assembly, and was pleasantly surprised with the results (I'm not much of a mechanic or DYI guy).Senate wrote:great tutorial as always Wouter! so does the new blade fits perfectly? no blade play at all?
Wouter
- Mr Blonde
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I'd love to hear Sal's input on this, but I think they use the 'sandwich method' with some type of jig(s) to hold everything in place without damaging the FRN parts on the spacer. At least, that's what I gather from seeing a lot of 'How it's made' on Discovery Channel. :DThe CoPilot wrote:This may be a silly question, but does anybody know the process (steps) of how the knifes are originally assembled in Seki-City? Is is similar to these reassembly steps?
Wouter
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- SimpleIsGood229
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Yeah, they're both pinned. You're right; I think STR would be the man for the job.Mr Blonde wrote:Actually, I don't think it will. I suspect that the pin sizes on the D4's frame and the Tasman's/Harpy's blade won't match up. They are both pinned knives right? Plus, I don't think the Locking bar would match up with the Tasman's blade. Perhaps a real custom maker like STR could help you out.
Wouter
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Anyone know if one can just purchases FG scales from Spyderco? I've just pulled the trigger on a D4 BRG ZDP-189 PE, I love the FG scales but wanted
a ZDP blade. I know there is a Delica4 parts kit, but that specifically excludes scales.
That or maybe some other forumite wants some BRG scales for the FG knife? :)
a ZDP blade. I know there is a Delica4 parts kit, but that specifically excludes scales.
That or maybe some other forumite wants some BRG scales for the FG knife? :)