Jeff Loffer from Cutlery Shoppe the new PM2 in REX 121

[BeggarSo]

Well here we go prepping for the reprofile this weekend, color was what was available in the I dont want this nail polish bin here use it.

[silver & black]

My 15v Lil Native was pretty bad out of the box. Probably just as bad as some of these being mentioned.

Whether it's considered proper or not I just gave the lock a squirt of Ballistol and spent a lazy day fidgeting with it.

Feels great now.

Here's an article that also gives some other options of things to try:

https://spydercoparts.com/why-is-your-s ... eed-to-try

Thank you for posting that article. Ive read conflicting advice about using lubricant on the lock. I've tried both and it seems to be the same either way. I've never had any luck with the pencil thing...lol. I think I'll just give it time to break in before trying something else. I can deal with a small bit of stick, but the loud click is very annoying.

[Synov]

Just to add to the data: my Wharncliffe was perfect. Edge was fully sharpened and lock works just as it should.

[vivi]

I can't chime in on this specific release, but I can echo what has been said about Jeff at CS. One of the easiest people to deal with in a return situation, a great individual I'll surely do business with again some day.

Well here we go prepping for the reprofile this weekend, color was what was available in the I dont want this nail polish bin here use it.

why the nail polish?

[ejames13]

Lock stick seems to be a "feature" of the compression lock.

A few of mine have had none. A few have had it really bad (required excess force to disengage and slapped the opposite side liner upon release). Most have had a nominal amount.

I've been able to dial the bad ones down to nominal level by loosening all screws, re-tightening in various order, and seeing which order leaves me with the least amount of lock stick. Once I have that nailed down (or screwed in, rather), I make note of the order and then do the process again but this time applying loctite to each screw.

Typically it's worked best to start at the bottom and work my way up, with the pivot being the last to get tightened. Playing with the orientation of the stop pin can help as well.

[Zbec27]

My 15v Lil Native was pretty bad out of the box. Probably just as bad as some of these being mentioned.

Whether it's considered proper or not I just gave the lock a squirt of Ballistol and spent a lazy day fidgeting with it.

Feels great now.

Here's an article that also gives some other options of things to try:

https://spydercoparts.com/why-is-your-s ... eed-to-try

Thank you for posting that article. Ive read conflicting advice about using lubricant on the lock. I've tried both and it seems to be the same either way. I've never had any luck with the pencil thing...lol. I think I'll just give it time to break in before trying something else. I can deal with a small bit of stick, but the loud click is very annoying.

Wanted to at least throw it out there in hopes I could save someone from having to pull apart their knife without needing too.

I can't see any possibility where lube would create a detrimental impact on the compression lock. I would think it would have to jeopardize the spring tension in some way and I just don't see it. I could easily be wrong though.

If these locks are coming out of the factory with a few burrs left on the steel causing the stick than I would think some patience to let them work off is going to always be the best place to start.

[BeggarSo]

I can't chime in on this specific release, but I can echo what has been said about Jeff at CS. One of the easiest people to deal with in a return situation, a great individual I'll surely do business with again some day.

Well here we go prepping for the reprofile this weekend, color was what was available in the I dont want this nail polish bin here use it.

why the nail polish?

The nail polish prevent loose diamonds and diamond slurry from scratching the flats when using a guided angle sharpener, takes a few coats but comes off easy with acetone.

Easier and more reliable than tape and doesn't come up when wet.

Learned this the hard way. Even DLC scratches when the diamonds or CBN release.

[TkoK83Spy]

What guided system are you using that gets wet? I'm not big on guided systems, but I thought they were mostly diamond or ceramic stones that don't require water?

[BeggarSo]

Actually soapy water or a light oil are reccomended.

I have no skill at freehand reprofiling so I now use either a TSPROF BLITZ or my Hapstone which I prefer.

I also use Nanohone resin embedded with diamonds strops (great products) currently 50, 25, and 3 micron for touch ups along with the Spyderco Gauntlet with CBN and ceramic rods as well as the Galley V.

Current stones are silver bonded CBN by PDT from the Ukraine I imported them from the factory over there about a month ago or so.

I also have a KME I use that when out and about and a friend needs their knife sharpened. They too reccomend and even ship their kit with a mini squirter bottle.

Ill take pics while sharpening this weekend.

[vivi]

I can't chime in on this specific release, but I can echo what has been said about Jeff at CS. One of the easiest people to deal with in a return situation, a great individual I'll surely do business with again some day.

Well here we go prepping for the reprofile this weekend, color was what was available in the I dont want this nail polish bin here use it.

why the nail polish?

The nail polish prevent loose diamonds and diamond slurry from scratching the flats when using a guided angle sharpener, takes a few coats but comes off easy with acetone.

Easier and more reliable than tape and doesn't come up when wet.

Learned this the hard way. Even DLC scratches when the diamonds or CBN release.

Interesting. I've never run into that after sharpening on diamonds for 20+ years, but then again I don't use guided sharpeners either. Learned something new.

Are you using all bonded diamond stones? I mostly use electro plated still.

[BeggarSo]

Yeah if I was as talented as you I wouldn't either

Here is where I bought them they call them metal bonded https://www.uksg.tools/shop/stones/sets ... bn-stones/

KME are electrobonded and when they are new look out they will tear up some flats. Great stones just have to take precautions.

[Mage7]

I can't chime in on this specific release, but I can echo what has been said about Jeff at CS. One of the easiest people to deal with in a return situation, a great individual I'll surely do business with again some day.

Well here we go prepping for the reprofile this weekend, color was what was available in the I dont want this nail polish bin here use it.

why the nail polish?

The nail polish prevent loose diamonds and diamond slurry from scratching the flats when using a guided angle sharpener, takes a few coats but comes off easy with acetone.

Easier and more reliable than tape and doesn't come up when wet.

Learned this the hard way. Even DLC scratches when the diamonds or CBN release.

Oh interesting, I haven't thought of mail polish. I usually use packing tape but cutting it along the bevel ends up with a little hairline scratch that's a pain to avoid.

[cabfrank]

Looking forward to this. That knife is going to be amazing when you finish, and will cut a very long time before another sharpening is needed.

[BeggarSo]

As much Ahem female dogging I've been doing about the blade not being finished I am looking foreward to an excuse to make use of my tools in a real needed scenario, helps justify the cost of my toys

[Kleon]

Well my two finally finished their nationwide meandering UPS delivery only 9 days so guess I got lucky there these days…

Alls well that ends well. Both drop point amd wharnie are well executed with no issues well within expectations from Golden or Taichung even. Very well done Sal and company amd Jeff. It’s nice to get them for what seems a very fair price maybe even very good price for the times. Thanks Jeff!

Kleon

[BeggarSo]

Well here we go let the games begin starting to sharpen the entire blade this one came in unfinished from the finger choil between 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch foreward toward the tip.

Undoubtedly the notorious Spyderco Plunge fouling the poor robot

So 4 coats of ugly nail polish to prevent loose CBN or CBN slurry from scratching the flats amazing how that happens.

This is a Hapstone with the dial in settings to go up and down with a magnetic rod, the stones are PDTOLS Metal bonded CBN.

The light is a Gritomatic accessory, well worth the money.

I started at 17.5 degrees using the TSPROF Axicube to set the angle, most Spydercos come in at that angle.

Using a high grit 1100 stone I gently discover the actual angle removing the finger polish with it.

Yep looks good now for the experience of sharpening REX-121.

[BeggarSo]

Delay encountered, I decided to get rid of that flat area near the plunge, to do this I repositioned the knife so I can get the abrasives straight on this area, it will take careful work so I applied more polish to prevent the slurry I saw building from scratching near where REX 121 is stamped.

Now I need to let this dry and do the other side also.

I I also switched to 160 Grit to get this stock down so far it is having no problem with REX 121

[BeggarSo]

Just about done with the real work at 160 Grit when reprofiling REX 121 be repaired to spend much more time on the stones than on S30V or even S90V even.

Interesting guy corrosion. Experience while the Nail polish was drying I went for a 2 mile walk ca.e back and there was a rust stain where water had sat, it wiped right off, and the metal is still shiny where it was, pretty cool.

[cabfrank]

Sounds like a very good day.

[BeggarSo]

So far pretty good taking out that flat area by the choil where it was not ground down leves things a bit higher by the choil but atleast it is a cutting area instead of a flat spot.

I could probably do nore but decided to leave well enough alone and focus on completing this tonight a little at a time in-between other chores.