Nano-Oil for Sal

[kbuzbee]

Nano-oil is to oils is like Spyderco is to knives. :)

There you are just going too far, Jack. I don't find those little bottle particularly ergonomic, and oil itself doesn't hold an edge for crap

Ken

[jackknifeh]

There you are just going too far, Jack. I don't find those little bottle particularly ergonomic, and oil itself doesn't hold an edge for crap

Ken

Just because you don't know what edge angle to use on 10w Nano-Oil you shouldn't blame the oil. :D

[kbuzbee]

Just because you don't know what edge angle to use on 10w Nano-Oil you shouldn't blame the oil. :D

Good point. Suggestions are welcome!

Ken

[JudasD]

Good to know, JD. I just ordered some on your rec



I have the 85wt Jack. It is VERY thick You have to squeeze the bajeebers out of the bottle to get one drop to form on the needle tip. I origionally wanted it for the chain on the garage door opener but it wasn't optimal. It's an "up" application. Even those thick drops don't quite flow "up" Just ordered the grease. We'll see, but I'm optomistic.

BUT, since I have it...... I put it on a couple pivots. It may not be right for you quick-flickers out there but it is SMOOTH. Maybe even smoother than the 10wt. It takes a dozen or so openings to work down in but once it gets in, you're good to go. Currently riding in both my Native 5 and Nishijin DF.

Ken

Please let me know how you like it Ken. I am curious on other feedback from the grease since it appears to be not quite as popular as the oils.

JD

[JudasD]

You are supposed to be able to mix any of the 3 weights to get the viscousity you need. Maybe mixing some 10 or 5 would thin the 85w to the point it would be easier to use and still thicker that most oils. I got the 10w because it was advertised as the appropriate weight for knives and tools. I got the 5w because of the claims that it would break frozen or rusted bolts free fast. These claims have proven true. I even use the 5w on knives once in a while to ensure it gets into all the friction areas. I am convinced this is not necessary but I've done it anyway in case I'm wrong. I know, me being wrong is hard to imagine. :rolleyes: Now I may need to get the 85w and mix it with some 5w to thin it. What do I need thicker oil for your ask? Can't think of anythin at the moment. :) I have a huge tube of grease I got at Wal Mart for a whopping $1.99. It has worked great on everything I've used it for so far. I stopped the unvelievable noise from a very loud, very powerful, very expensive fan. :D That's all so far. :) So it would seem I don't need thick oil or grease that much anyway. It is good to know that anything lubrication related can be satisfied with Nano-oil products. I know it's not the only great product line out there but it's the best I've used in my limited experience. As far as oil and lubrication goes I'm just some guy with the normal tools and stuff that require oil. No heavy machinery experience or anything. So I'll keep using Nano-oil until I get an unbelievable recommendation from someone I trust AND HAS TRIED NANO-OIL. I'll put it a way you guys may understand. Nano-oil is to oils is like Spyderco is to knives. :)

From what i have read the active ingredient is the "nano-bearings". All nano-oil (and grease) products are nano-bearings suspended in a petroleum carrier. The nano-bearings are supposed to treat the metal along with the lubricant properties of the petroleum. The petroleum carrier is what denotes the weight/viscosity of the product. They are all supposed to be mixable to produce the end result that you are looking for. I love be be able to use the 5, 10, 85 or grease all on the same device and know that they are compatible.
For knives i usually use 5w on the pivot. Then after it is all worked in i use compressed air to blow away the remainder. After that i might add a drop or 85w just to keep something there. i also like to use just a dab of the nano-grease on the detent ball of liner/frame locks. I also sometimes use a dab of the grease on the axis lock of BM knives. If you add a dab of grease and it it too thick for you, add a drop of 10w and let it work together. easily customizable.
For flashlights i like using 10w on the threads. Then i work the threads back and forth for a bit. Then i wipe off the excess and then add a dab of 85w to the threads and then a dab of grease to the o-ring.
I hate sounding like a shill but the stuff just works for me.

JD

[jackknifeh]

Please let me know how you like it Ken. I am curious on other feedback from the grease since it appears to be not quite as popular as the oils.

JD

The BEST information on products comes from the users of the products most of the time. That is if they use the product properly that is. So Ken, I'd love to hear what you think about it also. One thing I believe about Nano-Oil and Christian, who is "the man" at St, Claire is that he is honest about the product. In addition to what you can read on the site I'd contact him about the the exact situation you are faced with when considering lubrication. Sometimes what makes info from manufacturers not the BEST is the fact that they make money at sales of course. Maybe I'm non-trusting but this automatically makes me wary of their claims. I have not found this to be the case with Christian.

From what i have read the active ingredient is the "nano-bearings". All nano-oil (and grease) products are nano-bearings suspended in a petroleum carrier. The nano-bearings are supposed to treat the metal along with the lubricant properties of the petroleum. The petroleum carrier is what denotes the weight/viscosity of the product. They are all supposed to be mixable to produce the end result that you are looking for. I love be be able to use the 5, 10, 85 or grease all on the same device and know that they are compatible.
For knives i usually use 5w on the pivot. Then after it is all worked in i use compressed air to blow away the remainder. After that i might add a drop or 85w just to keep something there. i also like to use just a dab of the nano-grease on the detent ball of liner/frame locks. I also sometimes use a dab of the grease on the axis lock of BM knives. If you add a dab of grease and it it too thick for you, add a drop of 10w and let it work together. easily customizable.
For flashlights i like using 10w on the threads. Then i work the threads back and forth for a bit. Then i wipe off the excess and then add a dab of 85w to the threads and then a dab of grease to the o-ring.
I hate sounding like a shill but the stuff just works for me.

JD

I'm with you on loving the capability of mixing the different weights to get the thickness you need. All my life I never really kept my pocket knives lubed all that well. Since buying and using knives that I expect better performance from I take care of them far better. I haven't mixed the oils yet but like knowing I can if need be. :) I have used the 5w initially then 10w after that so I guess that is mixing but I haven't mixed 5w and 10w to get a 7.5w oil. :) I did put some 5w in my tube of Quick Release to see what happens. I doubt if I notice much but I guess I'll just believe the new oil will be better. I will just know it in my knower. :)

[kbuzbee]

I certainly will post impressions of the grease once it arrives. I agree, while user impressions can be somewhat subjective without rigorous testing in a controlled environment, there is inherent value in real world experience. And I too trust Christian when he says what nano oil will do.

BTW - any recommendations for a good spray solvents to clean this chain before application? These garage door openers are 10 years old and they've had every conceivable lubricant applied to them at some point. Better to start "fresh" if I can.

Ken

[The Mastiff]

BTW - any recommendations for a good spray solvents to clean this chain before application? These garage door openers are 10 years old and they've had every conceivable lubricant applied to them at some point. Better to start "fresh" if I can

Brake cleaner is the strongest anti oil/grease solvent I know about being able to find easily. Just spraying the chain will leave it dry when it's done dripping. Rifle "action" cleaners from the sporting goods section is next, but not as powerful. Be very careful with the brake cleaner. Wear thick rubber gloves, eye protection, and have something down to catch the oil/grease that falls and drips off. It sprays out hard to clean things like chain links very well. It can splatter back on you. The solvent will evaporate eventually but the oil grease you just washed off will stain even unsealed concrete. I used lots of newspapers in layers.

Do it in a well ventilated area, or outside if possible. It's pretty mean stuff. I went to that when I took over arsenal duties and had to clean guns that had layers and layers of gunk built up. It works on that old stuff the militaries of the world use when packing away stuff for years of storage. Cosmoline and such.

Don't use on plastics, and some other stuff. Maybe not nice varnished wood without protecting it but it should be ok. If the wood has natural oils it will strip these too though.

Sounds like cartoon toxic waste the way I describe it eh? I'm just a careful type. It works great though.

Joe

[kbuzbee]

Thanks Joe. Sounds like just the ticket.

Ken

[Clip]

I'd like to add to what Joe said above. I've used brake cleaner to clean parts before painting, lubricating etc like described, but I've also had to degrease parts before welding. After reading this, I'll be sure to use denatured alcohol or acetone instead of brake cleaner.

http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

Also, I'd like to poke into the whole Nano Oil/magic mystery lube thing again. I've said it before on post 62, I'd like some paperwork on it before I buy a bottle. Some more searching on Google turned up products like Nanotech Lubricants and Diamondlube, both bragging about having nano-diamonds in suspension so I'm guessing it's just carbon nanoparticles. In a patent search, I found this general patent explaining how they work: http://www.google.com/patents/WO2012166 ... CDcQ6AEwAA

Looks like the lubricant in the patent slowly polishes the metal as it uses very hard nanoparticles in a flowable lubricant, so the metal surfaces smooth out as they're used. I assume St. Claire's product is similar to this patent as he claims on his website, with a good flowable 10w lubricant that gives the initial smoothness along with spherical nanoparticles acting as bearings that also slowly polish the surface during use.

Think I'll be ordering a bottle on Monday.

[jackknifeh]

I'd like to add to what Joe said above. I've used brake cleaner to clean parts before painting, lubricating etc like described, but I've also had to degrease parts before welding. After reading this, I'll be sure to use denatured alcohol or acetone instead of brake cleaner.

http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

Also, I'd like to poke into the whole Nano Oil/magic mystery lube thing again. I've said it before on post 62, I'd like some paperwork on it before I buy a bottle. Some more searching on Google turned up products like Nanotech Lubricants and Diamondlube, both bragging about having nano-diamonds in suspension so I'm guessing it's just carbon nanoparticles. In a patent search, I found this general patent explaining how they work: http://www.google.com/patents/WO2012166 ... CDcQ6AEwAA

Looks like the lubricant in the patent slowly polishes the metal as it uses very hard nanoparticles in a flowable lubricant, so the metal surfaces smooth out as they're used. I assume St. Claire's product is similar to this patent as he claims on his website, with a good flowable 10w lubricant that gives the initial smoothness along with spherical nanoparticles acting as bearings that also slowly polish the surface during use.

Think I'll be ordering a bottle on Monday.

Wow. All of this just to oil a pocket knife? My Dad would look at us both like we've lost our minds. :D Don't think I'd do the research you are but I hope to hear what you find out. Mainly, what you think of the stuff after you try it.

[Clip]

Mainly, what you think of the stuff after you try it.

This is really what matters. I just like knowing what's behind all that magic talk going on. It'd be like if Spyderco called S110V or K390 something like Supersteel and had crazy user testimonials but no compositions or quantitative data to back it up.