You assumed what I meant....You did it to yourself.Laethageal wrote:
About that speed thing, what are you trying to do? Explaining basic theory as if I didn't know to have me look dumb isn't gonna work.
Nano oil 85w is the best IMO
- Screwdriver
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- razorsharp
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Let me know if you want to give the 85W a whirl. :)w3tnz wrote:A bit of lint or dirt won't accelerate wear on steel, not lubricating the moving parts of your knife will however.. you should be cleaning it before anything like that becomes an issue in any case. Nano oil goes a long way so you can use a little bit and it stays where you put it.
Is Nano food safe? I thought Frog Oil was the only food safe type, not counting mineral oil, vegetable oil, etc, of course.btron wrote:Thanks for the thread! I'll have to give Nano-Oil a try, especially after I have read that it's food safe.
K-390 on hand: Mule Team 17, Police 4 G-10, Endela (burlap micarta), Endela backup, Endura (canvas micarta), Straight Stretch (now blade-swapped with G-10 Stretch), Delica Wharncliffe, Dragonfly Wharncliffe, & Dragonfly Wharncliffe shorty mod
Note to self: Less is more.
Note to self: Less is more.
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Well since Nano-oil won't publish which type of fullerene (or inorganic fullerene) they use in their oil, it's pretty hard say if it is food safe.
Considering Tungsten Disulfide and Molybdenum Disulfide both have hazard statement, they can't be used in any food prep equipment. C60 Fullerene have been proved as prolonging the life of lab rat when mixed with olive oil, but some other study show that if dry suspension persist in the oil, it might prove harmful. No test have been done on human that I know of. C20, C70 and other fullerene haven't been studied for the effect on the living that I know of either.
So C60 fullerene would be the only "possibly" food safe nano lube, and only if totally disolved in olive oil. Out of the major choice, it has the highest coefficient of friction(which isn't good by the way), and is also the one with the highest cost at close to 170$/gram. Sigma-aldrich list it at 540$/gram.
WS2(molybdenum disulfide) can be found for 54$/pound at 99.9% grade and offer a coefficient of friction of about 0.03 for dynamic and 0.07 for static which is about 5 time better then C60. It isn't food safe but a cheap way to get an absolutly great dry lube.
MoS2(Tungsten disulfide) can be found for 1 to 5 time the price of WS2 depending on provider and grade. Basic sputtering of MoS2 offer a coefficient of friction of about 0.11 while sputtering in N2 atmospher lower the coefficient to close to 0.03 . MoS2 nanoparticles deposited using a localized high-pressure arc
discharge in N2 atmospher have shown a coefficient of friction of about 0.007.
To compare to what we are used to, teflon PTFE is 0.05 to 0.10.
I do have some WS2 powder on the way to see how it acts as a dry lub and complexity to apply (seems to need to be buffed or pressure applied at 120psi+) so I might give you people my thought about it if you're interested. I will surely have left over is someone else wanna try.
Considering Tungsten Disulfide and Molybdenum Disulfide both have hazard statement, they can't be used in any food prep equipment. C60 Fullerene have been proved as prolonging the life of lab rat when mixed with olive oil, but some other study show that if dry suspension persist in the oil, it might prove harmful. No test have been done on human that I know of. C20, C70 and other fullerene haven't been studied for the effect on the living that I know of either.
So C60 fullerene would be the only "possibly" food safe nano lube, and only if totally disolved in olive oil. Out of the major choice, it has the highest coefficient of friction(which isn't good by the way), and is also the one with the highest cost at close to 170$/gram. Sigma-aldrich list it at 540$/gram.
WS2(molybdenum disulfide) can be found for 54$/pound at 99.9% grade and offer a coefficient of friction of about 0.03 for dynamic and 0.07 for static which is about 5 time better then C60. It isn't food safe but a cheap way to get an absolutly great dry lube.
MoS2(Tungsten disulfide) can be found for 1 to 5 time the price of WS2 depending on provider and grade. Basic sputtering of MoS2 offer a coefficient of friction of about 0.11 while sputtering in N2 atmospher lower the coefficient to close to 0.03 . MoS2 nanoparticles deposited using a localized high-pressure arc
discharge in N2 atmospher have shown a coefficient of friction of about 0.007.
To compare to what we are used to, teflon PTFE is 0.05 to 0.10.
I do have some WS2 powder on the way to see how it acts as a dry lub and complexity to apply (seems to need to be buffed or pressure applied at 120psi+) so I might give you people my thought about it if you're interested. I will surely have left over is someone else wanna try.
If it's not polished, call it a saw, not an edge!
I'll preface the following with the admittance that science background is laughable... :)
As I understand, damage/wear is a combination of intensity, duration, and frequency. The effects are multiplicative. This of course is combated by any natural regeneration, such as our body's natural process of filtering toxins and repairing itself. This fuzzy logic works for physical erosion of materials as well with of course with the lack (usually) of regeneration.
In most cases, even "toxic" elements are not a concern unless ingested in dangerous levels. Using a CPM-S30v blade to cut up a baguette is perfectly safe but I would avoid chewing vanadium gum.
As I understand, damage/wear is a combination of intensity, duration, and frequency. The effects are multiplicative. This of course is combated by any natural regeneration, such as our body's natural process of filtering toxins and repairing itself. This fuzzy logic works for physical erosion of materials as well with of course with the lack (usually) of regeneration.
In most cases, even "toxic" elements are not a concern unless ingested in dangerous levels. Using a CPM-S30v blade to cut up a baguette is perfectly safe but I would avoid chewing vanadium gum.
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Well I can't say you're wrong. What I did intend to say is that there is no evidence that the most common nano particule used in lube are safe to ingest other then C60 (which sells for like 110$ per 200ml oil bottle with a total of 160mg of c60 diluted in it, crazy ain't it?) and therefor I personaly would refrain from using any of those lube on something that will be used to make food. Not that they are proven to be dangerous, but one can never be so sure with such small particules that common breath mask can't filter. Few decades ago, Pb and mercury were used all over the place...
If it's not polished, call it a saw, not an edge!
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Well I can't tell you for sure what the result would be, but here's the look of the deposited nano-lub part in nano-oil.
So if the fullerene covers only the metal part of the plate and don't stick to diamond, it'll make the residue be easy to wipe out. If it does stick to diamond... can't tell :P
The more you pressure rub the fullerene onto the metal to be lubed, the more they stick to it and form an ultra-thin film as the flakes align themselves. 2 fullerene can't stick on top of each other so the thickness of the film is about 0.5micron and won't get thicker if you apply more. You will only cover parts that were not at first. Have fun experimenting :P
So if the fullerene covers only the metal part of the plate and don't stick to diamond, it'll make the residue be easy to wipe out. If it does stick to diamond... can't tell :P
The more you pressure rub the fullerene onto the metal to be lubed, the more they stick to it and form an ultra-thin film as the flakes align themselves. 2 fullerene can't stick on top of each other so the thickness of the film is about 0.5micron and won't get thicker if you apply more. You will only cover parts that were not at first. Have fun experimenting :P
If it's not polished, call it a saw, not an edge!
Re:
On knives with no adjustable post, you pretty much have no choice but to use 5 or 10 weightphillipsted wrote:I've been using the Nano Oil for a while now and just recently got some of the 85w stuff. I've tried a *lot* of different lubes over the years and this is the best I've ever found. One nice thing about the 85w is that it stays where you put it and doesn't run like the 10w. And the viscosity makes my knives smooth as butter.
I'm sold.
TedP
at Shot Show, we use the 5 weight since people do not have too much time and results can be felt in second the 5 will go very quickly all the way around the post also.
- jackknifeh
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Re: Nano oil 85w is the best IMO
I've been sold on Nano-oil for a couple of years. I've had a couple of knives that I just couldn't get the pivot adjusted so it was super easy to move and still have NO blade play when open and locked. To eliminate ALL blade play I needed to tighten the pivot screw tight enough that the blade was stiff when moving it. Every time I had a knife like this I was able to use Nano-oil and then when I tightened the pivot screw tight enough for the blade play to completely go away the action was still very smooth and easy. Another great thing that Nano-oil has done better at than any other product I've ever tried is freeing up rusted nuts and bolts. Use the 5w because it's thin enough to soak through the rust faster.
I have 5w, 10w and 85w. Then I mixed some 10w and 85w at a 50/50 ratio to give me some 50w or something like that. :) I do like having a lube that stays within the area it is needed. Talking with Christian at the factory he says one group of people who really benefit from the different weights are watch makers or technicians.
I'll grant you that folding knives seldom need a lubricant of the highest quality (or price) but I like it when I need (or just want) it. Due to the price however I also use 3-in-one, Quick Release and a couple other types. I like Tuf-glide for corrosion resistance but as a lube I think it is possibly the worst in the world. Just an observation on my part. Maybe I didn't apply it correctly. :)
Jack
I have 5w, 10w and 85w. Then I mixed some 10w and 85w at a 50/50 ratio to give me some 50w or something like that. :) I do like having a lube that stays within the area it is needed. Talking with Christian at the factory he says one group of people who really benefit from the different weights are watch makers or technicians.
I'll grant you that folding knives seldom need a lubricant of the highest quality (or price) but I like it when I need (or just want) it. Due to the price however I also use 3-in-one, Quick Release and a couple other types. I like Tuf-glide for corrosion resistance but as a lube I think it is possibly the worst in the world. Just an observation on my part. Maybe I didn't apply it correctly. :)
Jack
Re: Nano oil 85w is the best IMO
Wow--this stuff is a bit costly, no?
Where are you finding info on its toxicity?
Where are you finding info on its toxicity?
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Re: Nano oil 85w is the best IMO
Costly when you consider their trademark was revoked but they still claim their name to be trademarked.
Then we have to consider many review of people saying it's doing an ok job but not better then the rest.
Then we also have many review saying it's amongst the best.
I guess it's a premium to pay for an at least decent oil, because no one ever complained about it not working :) In the worst of the case, you'll have a good lube but not the best.
Then we have to consider many review of people saying it's doing an ok job but not better then the rest.
Then we also have many review saying it's amongst the best.
I guess it's a premium to pay for an at least decent oil, because no one ever complained about it not working :) In the worst of the case, you'll have a good lube but not the best.
If it's not polished, call it a saw, not an edge!
Re: Nano oil 85w is the best IMO
Thanks. I'll stick with mineral oil.
I'm considering taking canola oil, adding food coloring, and selling it by the case as a non-toxic miracle lube. That hasn't been done yet, has it?
I'm considering taking canola oil, adding food coloring, and selling it by the case as a non-toxic miracle lube. That hasn't been done yet, has it?
Re: Nano oil 85w is the best IMO
Have you guys found that dismantling the knife to apply Nano-Oil yields the best results, or can it simply be dropped in? Diamond Lube for instance, recommends working their product in with the applicator for ideal results.
I've been using Tuf-Glide, but have really noticed lately that even after it's been on for a while, the tacky feeling never goes away when deploying the blade. My Sage felt smoother when it was dry than with the Tuf-Glide.
I've been using Tuf-Glide, but have really noticed lately that even after it's been on for a while, the tacky feeling never goes away when deploying the blade. My Sage felt smoother when it was dry than with the Tuf-Glide.
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It's not just in my head, it's in my heart.
It's not just in my head, it's in my heart.
- jackknifeh
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Re: Nano oil 85w is the best IMO
IMO Tuf-Glide is a good anti-corrosion product but makes a so-so lube at best. I've disassembled knives and as I assemble them I will add a drop of oil as I add a washer, blade, another washer ensuring good coverage between the blade tang and both washers. I don't think there is any advantage to doing that. Possibly, it wastes oil.1623 wrote:Have you guys found that dismantling the knife to apply Nano-Oil yields the best results, or can it simply be dropped in? Diamond Lube for instance, recommends working their product in with the applicator for ideal results.
I've been using Tuf-Glide, but have really noticed lately that even after it's been on for a while, the tacky feeling never goes away when deploying the blade. My Sage felt smoother when it was dry than with the Tuf-Glide.
Recently someone used a word that I didn't know the definition of. Now I can't remember the word but I remember the meaning. When applying oil as well as other things, when the materials the oil is to be between are together the spread of the oil is much better. An example used was when adding a liquid to a microscope slide that has the little piece of glass on top of the slide. The liquid seems to try hard to spread between the pieces as much as possible. Hopefully others may remember more about this. But IMO adding oil during assembly isn't worth as much as it seems it would be. I could be mistaken of course.
Jack
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Re: Nano oil 85w is the best IMO
2 Questions I need clarification on.
1) Is nano-oil food safe? I see yes, I see no, maybe so? If not is it at least non toxic?
2) Is it safe to use on O-Rings? I would love a lube that I could use on both knives & flashlights. If so will 85W stay put on threads / o-rings?
Thanks.
1) Is nano-oil food safe? I see yes, I see no, maybe so? If not is it at least non toxic?
2) Is it safe to use on O-Rings? I would love a lube that I could use on both knives & flashlights. If so will 85W stay put on threads / o-rings?
Thanks.
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Re: Nano oil 85w is the best IMO
I read review of people using it on auto rifle and flashlight and none had issue. I'm not the owner of the company and this isn't personnal experience but I'd say o-ring safe.
If it's not polished, call it a saw, not an edge!
Re: Nano oil 85w is the best IMO
The guys at Candle Power Forums seem happy with it:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showth ... -Nano-oil-(Chtristian-stclaire" target="_blank
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showth ... -Nano-oil-(Chtristian-stclaire" target="_blank