Spyderco/Farid K2 full review

[nirvanero]

Thank you for one more great review. Did you post any video or in hand pic?

[Ankerson]

Thank you for one more great review. Did you post any video or in hand pic?

Nope, not yet...

[nirvanero]

Nope, not yet...

Please! :)

[Ankerson]

Nope, not yet...

Please! :)

Likely do a quick video. :)

[Popsickle]

Thank you for one more great review. Did you post any video or in hand pic?

I would also like to see an in hand shot

[Ankerson]

Thank you for one more great review. Did you post any video or in hand pic?

I would also like to see an in hand shot

[Popsickle]

Thank you for one more great review. Did you post any video or in hand pic?

I would also like to see an in hand shot

thank you!

[MacLaren]

Can't help but think an XL Manix (among others) would be mighty nice with CPM 10V
Which I think would be neat as the Manix 2 would have CPM S110V and its big brother the XL CPM 10V

[nirvanero]

Thanks a lot for the pics Mr Ankerson. I don't dislike big knives but I started thinking this was a bit too much! I guess right on the edge of a "reasonable limit" as the Szabo folder. Hopefully it feels better in the hand.

[haarspalter]

thank you very much - i know i had to order - and some great prices on the k2 out there!

[Spey]

Jim,
Thank you for your test & documentation work here, as well the awesome photos posted!

Regarding your initial sharpening reference notations:

“The knife was re-profiled to 15 DPS and finished at 400 Grit SIC.
1st up is the Rope
2nd was the Cardboard Stage.
The knife was re-sharpened before this stage back to hair whittling sharpness”

I am assuming level of sharpness the edge was taken to, for each sharpening, was as equal as you could make it; and I am wondering what your sharpening procedure is to get a 400 Grit edge to hair whittling sharpness at 15-dps? Hair whittling, in my experience, is very near tree-topping & I can not get to this level of sharpness at 400-Grit levels (perhaps related to your selection of stones or …?). I am assuming 400 Grit SIC to indicate Silicon Carbide (paper, stone, ?)?

Appreciate any insight you could provide.

Regards & thanks again,
Chris

EDIT:
I suppose it could simply be that my hair, used for my sharpness reference, is relatively thin. Example: I know it's easier (lower level of sharpness required), to whittle one of my whiskers than the thinner hair from my head.

[dragonram7]

Thanks for the review. I will choose between the K2, Tatanka,and the Tuff here in the few weeks. It will serve as my large wilderness survival school folder.

[Ankerson]

Jim,
Thank you for your test & documentation work here, as well the awesome photos posted!

Regarding your initial sharpening reference notations:

“The knife was re-profiled to 15 DPS and finished at 400 Grit SIC.
1st up is the Rope
2nd was the Cardboard Stage.
The knife was re-sharpened before this stage back to hair whittling sharpness”

I am assuming level of sharpness the edge was taken to, for each sharpening, was as equal as you could make it; and I am wondering what your sharpening procedure is to get a 400 Grit edge to hair whittling sharpness at 15-dps? Hair whittling, in my experience, is very near tree-topping & I can not get to this level of sharpness at 400-Grit levels (perhaps related to your selection of stones or …?). I am assuming 400 Grit SIC to indicate Silicon Carbide (paper, stone, ?)?

Appreciate any insight you could provide.

Regards & thanks again,
Chris

EDIT:
I suppose it could simply be that my hair, used for my sharpness reference, is relatively thin. Example: I know it's easier (lower level of sharpness required), to whittle one of my whiskers than the thinner hair from my head.

It's a stone finish, sharpened on the Edge Pro.

[Lo/Rez]

That steel has impressive performance.

[Ankerson]

That steel has impressive performance.

Yes, it really holds an edge for a long time. :)

Really have to hand it to Spyderco and Farid for giving us the opportunity t experience it. :spyder:

[spyderg]

Screen Shot sp.jpg (18.9 KiB) Viewed 5454 times

Really like mine, had to tweak it a bit for the way I use it. The upswept tip kept snagging on things so I got rid of it and kept going :) The steel really holds an edge well, it still cut paper after stone washing! (not well mind you but it cut, when I did my Native in 110v it was essentially a butter knife) Both were a B**** to get a nice finish on, had to use metal instead of stones like I've used on other knives, the stones barely made a mark!

[Archimedes]

That is an amazing test. I have carried mine and cut a few things. I find it to be an amazing food prep knife. Perfect for an afternoon of BBQ outdoors. It cuts meat and veggies like no other.

I do find it is slightly large for a true EDC piece. I do love the blade though.

[jimmyjohnjohn]

This 10V steel is a bit quixotic. This is my first knife in 10V and it certainly behaves differently when sharpening.

I cut a 20 degree bevel per side, not very aggressive at all since the blade is so thin behind the edge. On my EdgePro, I took the edge up to 1000 grit without too much issue, producing a nice polish. However, the edge seemed toothy and after inspecting it with a 20x loop, discovered consistent chips in the edge. These were definitely clean fractures that chipped out a chunk of steel from the edge; these were not residual coarse grind lines that had not been polished out. There was no bur, however, like S90V forms.

I went over my process again in my head. The angle was not too aggressive. I knew that I might be asking too much of the steel, since it is very high carbide, by stressing it by taking it up too high on the EP stones. S90V performs well on the EdgePro up to 400 grit, so I decided to try that.

After mounting the 400 grit stone and working on the edge for a while, removing all the jaggies, the edge looked much, much better under the loop. Working it for a bit longer, the 10V actually started to polish nicely at 400 grit, which surprised me. It would push cut catalog paper, even at 20 degrees pet side.

So I was able to make it work. I'm interested to see how this edge holds up over time, since I did see fracturing already, but I want to see if my corrective action fixed that problem and didn't leave any permanent damage to the underlying steel. 10V is definitely a different animal.

[Ankerson]

Yes, 10V can be different, let us know how it works out, I am guessing you are using the OEM EP stones.

[jimmyjohnjohn]

Yes, 10V can be different, let us know how it works out, I am guessing you are using the OEM EP stones.

That's right, exactly. The 120-400 grit stones seem to perform well on high carbide, wear resistant steels. They don't produce much deformation, damage or burrs. But any finer grit than that doesn't perform well at all.