How does cruwear sharpen and what kind of edge does it take?

Discuss Spyderco's products and history.
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Ankerson
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#61

Post by Ankerson »

Blerv wrote:I may be opening a can of worms Jim but do you think the 110v Manix2 will take (ie "keep") 10dps for any normal amount of work (cardboard mainly) or is that the result of a custom maker like Phil Wilson and a more painstaking HT/grinding process?
I dunno for sure, mine is reground to .005" behind the edge and 15 DPS and handled 3,800 ft of cardboard with no edge damage at a tested hardness of 62 RC.

So I can say it's likely I suppose.....

I wouldn't do 10 DPS with a stock blade though.....
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Popsickle
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#62

Post by Popsickle »

I need a standard g10 manix 2 with s110v :)

love my lightweight when the option is needed but I like a little bit of heft to my folders.... nothing over bearing
Cliff Stamp
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#63

Post by Cliff Stamp »

_centurio_ wrote:I wanted to say that a ranking is relatively heavy to do, and even then no one can say that steel A is the best or Steel B is worse and so on.
What has higher corrosion resistance when exposed to salt water, 1095 or 440C?

Is this a question that people debate, it is something that is difficult to determine? Why not?

The only reason that rankings are difficult is that the questions are poorly framed.
Surfingringo wrote:... is more than just a theory
Theory is the highest form of scientific explanation, there is nothing more supported with evidence, nothing with more explanatory power than a theory.

If you want to rank steels then the hardest part isn't actually the ranking it is describing what you are ranking. The reason why it confuses most people and there is subjective debates is people people often ask to rank things by a description which is extremely vague.

Here is a completely meaningless question :

"Is S90V a better steel than 440A?"

The reason this is meaningless and it turns into a ramble of subjective nonsense is because "better" is not defined, you might as well ask :

"Is S90V more froody than 440A?"

or

"Is S90V more of a high pitched tulip than 440A?"

Here is a question which is has an actual objective answer :

"Grindability and ease of sharpening are critical for me, especially in very demanding work where the knife will take edge damage, which is a better steel - S90V or 440A?"

The answer is 440A because the mechanical properties are higher for the relevant usage described. If other aspects are more critical to the user (or maker) then S90V could be the better steel.

It is no different if you ask about any other property, if the question is framed properly then it has an objective answer - hence one of the reasons why one of the first thing you learn in scientific study is how to ask a question which has an answer.
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#64

Post by Cliff Stamp »

me2 wrote:I have a knife that cut about 25 feet of sheet aluminum and would still whittle beard hair.
Details?
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ginsuwarrior
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#65

Post by ginsuwarrior »

Froody high pitched tulip steels are the cats meow, whiskers, and bees knees.
Military // PM 2 // Endura // Delica // Stretch // SE Tasman // SE Hawkbill Ladybug
JohnAPA
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#66

Post by JohnAPA »

Steel junkies and sharpening junkies are the most important reasons why I come here. Thank you gentlemen.
me2
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#67

Post by me2 »

Cliff Stamp wrote:Details?
You asked, just remember that.

https://youtu.be/9lVy-iZeEoM

Unknown stainless steel from Japan bought in the early 90's. Sharpening details are in the video.
WorkingEdge
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#68

Post by WorkingEdge »

JohnAPA wrote:Steel junkies and sharpening junkies are the most important reasons why I come here. Thank you gentlemen.
Yup. I love these kind of threads. They do tend to lead to some expenditures, though : )
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PayneTrain
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#69

Post by PayneTrain »

PayneTrain wrote: So I'm going to go ahead and guess that M4 will have similarly lower Apex Stability for the same reasons.
Cliff Stamp wrote:The M4 blades. High speed steels can have a large carbide volume which lowers apex stability and they are tempered hot which does the same but they are also :

-very hard
-very low percentage of non-martensite phases
-very fine aus-grain

so in general they have a high apex stability compared to something like D2, VG-10 etc. for example.
Apparently, I have learned nothing! I guess my best course of action is to just practice my sharpening and begin some field testing. Looks like I'm going to need more knives...darn...
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#70

Post by Cliff Stamp »

PayneTrain wrote:Apparently, I have learned nothing!
You just channeled Socrates.

--

Most steel properties are controlled by many factors, often which influence the properties in different ways, if you try to compare two steels where many aspects change then it simply can't be predicted well hence the need for measurement. For example :

-what has higher impact toughness A2 or D2
-what has higher wear resistance A2 or D2

If you look at the steels then D2 has more carbon, more carbide forming elements so it would seem that it should be less tough but more wear resistant than A2, which is indeed the case. However :

-what has higher wear resistance 3V or D2

This is not trivial to answer because while 3V has a higher percentage of alloy carbide formers it has much less carbon so taking a strong position on it without measurement is not justified (the measurements show they are similar).

M4 has lower apex stability than steels like Nitrobe 77 but higher than steels such as S90V, 10V, etc. .
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captnvegtble
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#71

Post by captnvegtble »

Cliff Stamp wrote: M4 has lower apex stability than steels like Nitrobe 77 but higher than steels such as S90V, 10V, etc. .
I have never tried M4, but I think this is the next steel on my list to try/buy... sounds like the kind of steel I'm looking for.
Thanks for the interesting discussion.
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spyderg
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Re: How does cruwear sharpen and what kind of edge does it t

#72

Post by spyderg »

I'm a novice when it comes to sharpening. I usually use my ken onion work sharp. My cru-wear manix 2 takes an edge quite well and holds a working edge for a long time however, shave sharpness not so much. My new Farid k-2 in 10v seems to be holding it's factory shave sharp edge very well, and I've been using it quite a bit for a variety of tasks. I'll have to see how it is to sharpen if it ever dulls! Curious to see how my Native 5 in 110v will be like when it gets here...
If you're wielding the sharpest tool in the shed, who's going to say that you aren't...?
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