Diamond sharpmaker rods...wet or dry?
Diamond sharpmaker rods...wet or dry?
I've used my diamond rods a couple times dry and have been pleased with results over the brown ceramic stones. I've recently discovered that some folks use water on the diamond rods. Is there a definitive right or wrong way? Wet or dry? Does it really matter?
DLC Paramilitary 2 S30V, Manix 2 S30V hollow ground, Delica 4 stainless with custom engraving, green frn delica 4 ffg, blue frn delica 4 ffg, orange frn endura 4 ffg, Gayle Bradley
I use them dry. Wet probably doesn't hurt but probably doesn't help, either. I do the same with diamond plates that I have for sharpening my shop tools. The big thing with the diamond rods is not to apply too much pressure. You'll break the diamonds out of the adhesive that holds them on the metal rod.
You got my curiosity up.
Here's a few FAQs from DMT's website. Looks like both are fine, but clean them after use and store them dry.
Here's a few FAQs from DMT's website. Looks like both are fine, but clean them after use and store them dry.
7.How do I take care of my sharpener?
When you first use your DMT® sharpener, the diamond surface will seem aggressive in nature; the diamond sharpener will smooth after initial sharpening with no impact to long term performance. Your first few sharpenings are the break-in period. To maintain your sharpener, you should clean after each use with water and wipe dry. After several sharpenings, use a mild kitchen abrasive cleanser and a nylon scrub brush (an old toothbrush works well too). Comet, Ajax, and Zud work well. Make sure the sharpener is dry before putting it away.
10.I know it says to use the sharpener dry or with water, but can I use oil anyway? Can I store my DMT stone in kerosene?
While we recommend you use DMT® products dry or with water only, it is acceptable to use a variety of lubricants when sharpening with DMT® products. Mineral oil, mineral spirits, kerosene, WD40 can all be used without harming your DMT® sharpener. We do not recommend storing your DMT® sharpener in kerosene. DMT® recommends that you always wipe your Diamond and Unbreakable Ceramic Sharpeners clean and store dry after use.
Put away your benchstones dry and store in a dry area. Use leafing (paper towels, cloth, plastic storage bag) in between your bench stones to prevent abrasive sides from rubbing.
Here's more:
unit wrote:Regarding water...
Some actions/applications it becomes necessary for me to wash the plates frequently. Because I am rinsing them frequently, and it is impractical to let them air dry (and using a wiping cloth(s) can introduce contaminants), I simply shake them off and go back to using them...so I guess you would say that I often use them wet.
Generally, I see very little difference between wet and dry use, but if you look under strong magnification, the scratch pattern will give clues regarding weather the hone was used wet or dry. I have done it both ways, and can tell you that my findings do not indicate a difference in results that is directly related to use or absence of water.
In the end, I do not think it matters one way or the other as long as you know/realize/combat all the problems that can occur during profiling/sharpening. Both wet and dry use has associated pitfalls...and they need to be worked around.
Ideally, I prefer dry for the sound and feel (but it is only practical for me to work dry for short jobs such as a routine sharpening or touch-up). These sorts of cues are important for free hand honing (and I could see strong evidence that these cues could benefit use in jigs also). Wet stones will sometimes dry during use...which can throw off these references...which is one more reason why I rinse frequently.
-
- Member
- Posts: 3852
- Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2005 2:23 pm
- Location: Earth
- Contact:
There are a few reasons why you should not in general use dry abrasives, the simplest is this :Paddy B wrote:Wet or dry? Does it really matter?
It is very unlikely that you want to breath in what is being removed and nor is it good for other people to breath or for various equipment.
A lubricant on a stone will trap a lot of the steel dust which can then be just rinsed off. In addition :
-for very coarse stones it can help the edge skip over irregular bits so they don't get caught/damaged
-in general it tends to help people focus more on the sharpening vs brute force grinding
-
- Member
- Posts: 128
- Joined: Sat Jan 11, 2014 3:07 pm
- Location: Western Wisconsin
I noticed an immediate difference in how easily the knife moves over my DMT plates when dry vs. wet. I feel that a little water on the plate makes it slide more easily over the abrasive, which in turn made it easier to keep the same repetative motion going due to a better feel and feedback from the stone. I haven't found any reason NOT to use a little water on them, so I always do now.
"The skeptic does not mean he who doubts, but he who investigates or researches, as opposed to he who asserts and thinks that he has found."
- Miguel de Unamuno
Military Black G-10 DLC, Byrd Meadowlark 2 G-10, Lil Matriarch, Pacific Salt SE yellow, Endura 4 ffg brown, Native FRN PE, Dragonfly 2 Orange, Ulize, Sharpmaker and UF rods. Also, Cold Steel Voyager XL Clip PE, Kershaw Volt II (on loan), many fixed blades, and a KP strop block.
- Miguel de Unamuno
Military Black G-10 DLC, Byrd Meadowlark 2 G-10, Lil Matriarch, Pacific Salt SE yellow, Endura 4 ffg brown, Native FRN PE, Dragonfly 2 Orange, Ulize, Sharpmaker and UF rods. Also, Cold Steel Voyager XL Clip PE, Kershaw Volt II (on loan), many fixed blades, and a KP strop block.