My Yellow SE Pacific Salt is in pretty terrible condition. One of the rearmost teeth is completely impacted to about half its original hight, and all have heavy, visible, rolls. No chips or edge fracture, just significant blunting. Ive been considering using a Dremel to grind off the damage and reform the scallops and teeth cleanly, but was not sure if this would be a good idea due to possible overheating. If anyone has any suggestions I'd be happy to hear them.
My Lil Matriarch (sweet knife) is in similar, though not as extreme, condition.
Best way to Restore Heavilly Damaged SE knives?
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RealKnifeUser
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Best way to Restore Heavilly Damaged SE knives?
"The skeptic does not mean he who doubts, but he who investigates or researches, as opposed to he who asserts and thinks that he has found."
- Miguel de Unamuno
Military Black G-10 DLC, Byrd Meadowlark 2 G-10, Lil Matriarch, Pacific Salt SE yellow, Endura 4 ffg brown, Native FRN PE, Dragonfly 2 Orange, Ulize, Sharpmaker and UF rods. Also, Cold Steel Voyager XL Clip PE, Kershaw Volt II (on loan), many fixed blades, and a KP strop block.
- Miguel de Unamuno
Military Black G-10 DLC, Byrd Meadowlark 2 G-10, Lil Matriarch, Pacific Salt SE yellow, Endura 4 ffg brown, Native FRN PE, Dragonfly 2 Orange, Ulize, Sharpmaker and UF rods. Also, Cold Steel Voyager XL Clip PE, Kershaw Volt II (on loan), many fixed blades, and a KP strop block.
I use these for serrated edges:
http://www.dmtsharp.com/sharpeners/fold ... -serrated/
Check video on right side of DMT page.
But you could send them back to Spyderco and they'll sharpen it for somewhere around $5.00
http://www.dmtsharp.com/sharpeners/fold ... -serrated/
Check video on right side of DMT page.
But you could send them back to Spyderco and they'll sharpen it for somewhere around $5.00
Focus is just distraction from distraction, so I take my moderation in moderation.
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RealKnifeUser
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Thanks setldown, but the amount of damage is beyond what I'd want to tackle with just DMT rods. Although I definitely could, it would just take a significant ammount of time compared to power tools :D I'll put a couple pictures up today to show everyone, hopefully the damage can be seen on camera
"The skeptic does not mean he who doubts, but he who investigates or researches, as opposed to he who asserts and thinks that he has found."
- Miguel de Unamuno
Military Black G-10 DLC, Byrd Meadowlark 2 G-10, Lil Matriarch, Pacific Salt SE yellow, Endura 4 ffg brown, Native FRN PE, Dragonfly 2 Orange, Ulize, Sharpmaker and UF rods. Also, Cold Steel Voyager XL Clip PE, Kershaw Volt II (on loan), many fixed blades, and a KP strop block.
- Miguel de Unamuno
Military Black G-10 DLC, Byrd Meadowlark 2 G-10, Lil Matriarch, Pacific Salt SE yellow, Endura 4 ffg brown, Native FRN PE, Dragonfly 2 Orange, Ulize, Sharpmaker and UF rods. Also, Cold Steel Voyager XL Clip PE, Kershaw Volt II (on loan), many fixed blades, and a KP strop block.
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RealKnifeUser
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"The skeptic does not mean he who doubts, but he who investigates or researches, as opposed to he who asserts and thinks that he has found."
- Miguel de Unamuno
Military Black G-10 DLC, Byrd Meadowlark 2 G-10, Lil Matriarch, Pacific Salt SE yellow, Endura 4 ffg brown, Native FRN PE, Dragonfly 2 Orange, Ulize, Sharpmaker and UF rods. Also, Cold Steel Voyager XL Clip PE, Kershaw Volt II (on loan), many fixed blades, and a KP strop block.
- Miguel de Unamuno
Military Black G-10 DLC, Byrd Meadowlark 2 G-10, Lil Matriarch, Pacific Salt SE yellow, Endura 4 ffg brown, Native FRN PE, Dragonfly 2 Orange, Ulize, Sharpmaker and UF rods. Also, Cold Steel Voyager XL Clip PE, Kershaw Volt II (on loan), many fixed blades, and a KP strop block.
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RealKnifeUser
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"The skeptic does not mean he who doubts, but he who investigates or researches, as opposed to he who asserts and thinks that he has found."
- Miguel de Unamuno
Military Black G-10 DLC, Byrd Meadowlark 2 G-10, Lil Matriarch, Pacific Salt SE yellow, Endura 4 ffg brown, Native FRN PE, Dragonfly 2 Orange, Ulize, Sharpmaker and UF rods. Also, Cold Steel Voyager XL Clip PE, Kershaw Volt II (on loan), many fixed blades, and a KP strop block.
- Miguel de Unamuno
Military Black G-10 DLC, Byrd Meadowlark 2 G-10, Lil Matriarch, Pacific Salt SE yellow, Endura 4 ffg brown, Native FRN PE, Dragonfly 2 Orange, Ulize, Sharpmaker and UF rods. Also, Cold Steel Voyager XL Clip PE, Kershaw Volt II (on loan), many fixed blades, and a KP strop block.
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RealKnifeUser
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- Location: Western Wisconsin
[ATTACH]23506[/ATTACH]
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"The skeptic does not mean he who doubts, but he who investigates or researches, as opposed to he who asserts and thinks that he has found."
- Miguel de Unamuno
Military Black G-10 DLC, Byrd Meadowlark 2 G-10, Lil Matriarch, Pacific Salt SE yellow, Endura 4 ffg brown, Native FRN PE, Dragonfly 2 Orange, Ulize, Sharpmaker and UF rods. Also, Cold Steel Voyager XL Clip PE, Kershaw Volt II (on loan), many fixed blades, and a KP strop block.
- Miguel de Unamuno
Military Black G-10 DLC, Byrd Meadowlark 2 G-10, Lil Matriarch, Pacific Salt SE yellow, Endura 4 ffg brown, Native FRN PE, Dragonfly 2 Orange, Ulize, Sharpmaker and UF rods. Also, Cold Steel Voyager XL Clip PE, Kershaw Volt II (on loan), many fixed blades, and a KP strop block.
That's not too bad. The points are gonna be there unless you do some major regrinding on the serrations. For that I'd just send it back to Spyderco and let them do it. Otherwise a tapered diamond rod will get the rolls out real fast. Then just sharpen it however you normally do.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
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RealKnifeUser
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As a side note, the knife is an absolute beast. Not anywhere near what I'd call sharp but it still cuts. Easily separates stiff enough material and even saws through flame resistant woven fiberglass gasket faster than a fresh razor blade. Also, the yellow frn is great as a high-visibility color at work, and looks good dirty :D
"The skeptic does not mean he who doubts, but he who investigates or researches, as opposed to he who asserts and thinks that he has found."
- Miguel de Unamuno
Military Black G-10 DLC, Byrd Meadowlark 2 G-10, Lil Matriarch, Pacific Salt SE yellow, Endura 4 ffg brown, Native FRN PE, Dragonfly 2 Orange, Ulize, Sharpmaker and UF rods. Also, Cold Steel Voyager XL Clip PE, Kershaw Volt II (on loan), many fixed blades, and a KP strop block.
- Miguel de Unamuno
Military Black G-10 DLC, Byrd Meadowlark 2 G-10, Lil Matriarch, Pacific Salt SE yellow, Endura 4 ffg brown, Native FRN PE, Dragonfly 2 Orange, Ulize, Sharpmaker and UF rods. Also, Cold Steel Voyager XL Clip PE, Kershaw Volt II (on loan), many fixed blades, and a KP strop block.
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araneae
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That's not that bad at all. I have repaired worse with a tapered diamond hone- H1 is pretty easily sharpened. Or you can send it in to Spyderco. Odds are if you use a dremel tool, you will just make a mess of it.
So many knives, so few pockets... :)
-Nick
Last in: N5 Magnacut
The "Spirit" of the design does not come through unless used. -Sal
-Nick
Last in: N5 Magnacut
The "Spirit" of the design does not come through unless used. -Sal
Seems to me with a set of white/brown crock sticks (let alone diamonds) you should be able to fix it. It will just take more time. Slow and steady wins the race :) .
If you want to send it in to Spyderco I'm sure they can fix it right up and make it look pretty again. The downfall would be waiting for it return plus a bit of extra steel removed.
If you want to send it in to Spyderco I'm sure they can fix it right up and make it look pretty again. The downfall would be waiting for it return plus a bit of extra steel removed.
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Pinetreebbs
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^ Yup, pay for the Spyderco Spa Service. I sent them a beat up Police model with damaged serrations that I bought in a box of miscellaneous stuff, it turned out great.
For the following repairs please include $20.00USD plus $5.00USD for shipping and handling
Blade or edge- Broken tip from prying or dropping, chipped edge or broken serrations, destroyed edge due to improper sharpening, rust due to neglect or other blade issues. Spyderco does not replace blades. Depending on the blade’s condition we may be able to re-profile or re-serrate.
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I'd send it to meet its maker.
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Manix2, Elmax MT13, M4 Manix2, ZDP Caly Jr, SB Caly3.5, Cruwear MT12, XHP MT16, South Fork, SB Caly3, 20CP Para2, Military Left Hand, Perrin PPT, Squeak, Manix 83mm, Swick3, Lil' Temperance, VG10 Jester, Dfly2 Salt, Tasman Salt
Chris
Manix2, Elmax MT13, M4 Manix2, ZDP Caly Jr, SB Caly3.5, Cruwear MT12, XHP MT16, South Fork, SB Caly3, 20CP Para2, Military Left Hand, Perrin PPT, Squeak, Manix 83mm, Swick3, Lil' Temperance, VG10 Jester, Dfly2 Salt, Tasman Salt
Chris
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yablanowitz
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I thought you said it was damaged. I've restored edges a hundred times worse than that with a Byrd Duckfoot and a SharpMaker. If you don't have the patience to do it right or to wait for it to come back from Spyderco, throw it away and buy a new one.
I don't believe in safe queens, only in pre-need replacements.
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Surfingringo
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I think you can fix that in 10-15 minutes with the sharpmaker and the brown rods. That thing looks like it's never been sharpened. Time to give it a little tlc on the sm is all. Nothing to it. I find my pacific salt does best if I hit it a few licks every couple of days. Only takes a few seconds and the knife stays razor sharp. Easier than letting it get completely dull and damaged and then having to spend the time getting it back IMO. Good luck.
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RealKnifeUser
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Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm mainly referring to the two points that are folded/compacted down. I've sharpened the knife many times, and was asking about the two points shown in the picture.
"The skeptic does not mean he who doubts, but he who investigates or researches, as opposed to he who asserts and thinks that he has found."
- Miguel de Unamuno
Military Black G-10 DLC, Byrd Meadowlark 2 G-10, Lil Matriarch, Pacific Salt SE yellow, Endura 4 ffg brown, Native FRN PE, Dragonfly 2 Orange, Ulize, Sharpmaker and UF rods. Also, Cold Steel Voyager XL Clip PE, Kershaw Volt II (on loan), many fixed blades, and a KP strop block.
- Miguel de Unamuno
Military Black G-10 DLC, Byrd Meadowlark 2 G-10, Lil Matriarch, Pacific Salt SE yellow, Endura 4 ffg brown, Native FRN PE, Dragonfly 2 Orange, Ulize, Sharpmaker and UF rods. Also, Cold Steel Voyager XL Clip PE, Kershaw Volt II (on loan), many fixed blades, and a KP strop block.
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Surfingringo
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Ah, my bad. I didn't see a microbevel or any rounding of the teeth on the front side so I thought maybe it hadn't been sharpened. I guess it's hard to tell from those pics. Anyway, I still believe you could repair most of that fairly easily with some medium rods and a bit of patience. Barring that, I would imagine spyderco would fix it up for you if you didn't mind being without the knife for a bit.RealKnifeUser wrote:Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm mainly referring to the two points that are folded/compacted down. I've sharpened the knife many times, and was asking about the two points shown in the picture.
Glad you are using and enjoying the knife. It's one of my all time favorites. Used mine for almost an hour today cleaning some big fish. Thing's a fricking chainsaw!
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ChapmanPreferred
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I would suggest sending it back to Spyderco to be re-serrated by warranty/repair. Once you have it back, maintain it constantly with the Sharpmaker.
SFO Alumni/Authorized Spyderco Dealer (Startup)
Work EDC List
FRP: Nisjin Cricket PE, Manbug PE, Dragonfly PE
FLP: SS Cricket SE, byrd Flatbyrd CE
BRP: CF Military S90V
BLP: Forum S110V Native
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Work EDC List
FRP: Nisjin Cricket PE, Manbug PE, Dragonfly PE
FLP: SS Cricket SE, byrd Flatbyrd CE
BRP: CF Military S90V
BLP: Forum S110V Native
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
I've got a few used SE dragonflies off ebay that had a fairly trashed edge. As far as the serrations that are blunted, you can't add any metal back. You can restore the serrations back to a sharp functioning edge though. This is what I did. First, tape off the blade right above the serration grinds (if you're worried about scratching the blade). Next, I take a small diameter, round shafted screwdriver and steel both sides of the edge to get the initial rolls out. Then I take a black marker and mark the inside of the scallops. Then I used an appropriate sized dowel wrapped with 1200 grit sandpaper and carefully file the large scallops until they are sharp. If you start to get unsure of your angle, re-apply the marker. I do the same with the smaller serrations using a smith's tapered diamond hone wrapped with the same 1200 grit sandpaper. I then finish it off with a narrow 1/4" loaded leather strop I made for serrated edges. This seems to have worked great for me, and the 1200 grit finish on the serrations look pretty good IMO. Just take your time. Or, you could just send it to Spyderco with $5 and have them do it.