Thanks for your thoughts.
How does it cut different material is one thing I would still like to know about the double bevel.
Double Bevel Review
"If you wish to live and thrive, let the spider run alive"
"the perfect knife is the one in your hand, you should just learn how to use it."
If you don't have anything good to say, then don't say anything at all
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Knife makers directory: http://www.knifemakersdirectory.com/
"the perfect knife is the one in your hand, you should just learn how to use it."
If you don't have anything good to say, then don't say anything at all
My Youtube knife use videos and more: http://www.youtube.com/user/mwvanwyk/videos
Knife makers directory: http://www.knifemakersdirectory.com/
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demoncase
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- Joined: Sat Jun 18, 2011 9:07 am
- Location: England- Wolverhampton
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I suddenly pictured a trombone, sprayed coyote tan, with a bunch of RIS with lasers, torches and a vertical grip.....For those engaugements where you need to play a downward "Wa-wah-WaaaaAAaaah" comedy note :Dgijoe945 wrote:This definitely is a great concealable tactical instrument. .
Warhammer 40000 is- basically- Lord Of The Rings on a cocktail of every drug known to man and genuine lunar dust, stuck in a blender with Alien, Mechwarrior, Dune, Starship Troopers, Fahrenheit 451 and Star Wars, bathed in blood, turned up to eleventy billion, set on fire, and catapulted off into space screaming "WAAAGH!" and waving a chainsaw sword- without the happy ending.
https://www.instagram.com/commissarcainscoffeecup/
https://www.instagram.com/commissarcainscoffeecup/
Thanks for reading, everyone :)
Obviously the hollow ground portion isn't as good at slicing, but it's plenty sharp. If I ever need to carve something out of wood, that's the part of the blade I'll use.
It really seems to be more of a "hand stop" than a "thumb ramp" to me. If I ever had to grab this knife in a hurry I would be holding it in a hammer grip because it just seems more natural with the design, compared to a Yojimbo 2 where my thumb naturally slides up the back of the blade for a "Fillipino" grip.
The flat ground half slices through cardboard like crazy. The blade seems really thin out front. I'm starting to think that a (thin) flat ground US tanto might be about as good a slicer as one could get.Zenith wrote:Thanks for your thoughts.
How does it cut different material is one thing I would still like to know about the double bevel.
Obviously the hollow ground portion isn't as good at slicing, but it's plenty sharp. If I ever need to carve something out of wood, that's the part of the blade I'll use.
Because the handle is so small, it doesn't really work for a thumb ramp for me. I use it like my Bravo 1's "thumb ramp" - with my thumb in front of (towards the blade tip) the ramp. It allows a lot of control and leverage.DeathBySnooSnoo wrote:The only thing that I dislike, is the really steep thumb ramp. My thumb just doesn't bend like that! But it looks like there is enough steel there that I could grind it into a more shallow angle...
It really seems to be more of a "hand stop" than a "thumb ramp" to me. If I ever had to grab this knife in a hurry I would be holding it in a hammer grip because it just seems more natural with the design, compared to a Yojimbo 2 where my thumb naturally slides up the back of the blade for a "Fillipino" grip.
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RadioactiveSpyder
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jackknifeh
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Very nice review and one I'm glad to read. I have wondered about this knife. One thing can you comment on? The sharpening. I assume you sharpen it like any other knife. But I did wonder if the edge was any different on the hollow vs the FFG sections. Since you said nothing about that I am almost sure sharpening it would be like any other plain edge. If it were any different I think you would have mentioned it. Wanted to ask just to be sure anyway.
Like a couple of others I like that it isn't too big. That is a plus for me regarding wanting one.
Jack
Like a couple of others I like that it isn't too big. That is a plus for me regarding wanting one.
Jack
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Officer Gigglez
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- Location: Originally out of Arizona, currently live in Missouri.
I'm probably going to pass on this one. Just doesn't appeal to me.
Spyderco Knives (in order of obtainment):
-Tenacious, Combo edge
-Tasman Salt, PE
-Persistence Blue, PE
-Pacific Salt, Black, PE
-Delica 4, Emerson Grey
-DiAlex Junior
-Byrd SS Crossbill, PE
-Endura 4 Emerson Grey
-Byrd Meadowlark 2 FRN, PE
-Resilience
-Tenacious, Combo edge
-Tasman Salt, PE
-Persistence Blue, PE
-Pacific Salt, Black, PE
-Delica 4, Emerson Grey
-DiAlex Junior
-Byrd SS Crossbill, PE
-Endura 4 Emerson Grey
-Byrd Meadowlark 2 FRN, PE
-Resilience
I have just taken mine out of the box and a few initial impressions.
The fit and finish is top class. I suspect that it is made by Moki (the shape of the "Y" in Spyderco, the absence of "Seki City" and the phillips head screws on the pocket clip). It has none of the Starmate issues, in fact the start of the cutting edge is really well finished. Countersunk pivot unlike the Caly, blade is perfectly centred, smooth action - I just cannot fault the execution of this.
Varxx, it is open back construction.
As to how it cuts and how it sharpens - dunno yet. I think it is going to need very slow strokes on a Sharpmaker or it will "jump" at the transition of the bevels. The factory grind looks pretty good (I don't have my loupe at the office). I'll play with it over the weekend and see how it cuts.
Since it was announced I've been excited about this guy. The sad thing is that after swapping the clip for a black one and playing with it at home a bit it is unlikely to come out into the wild too often while I live in Mauritius. The law is very vague and I am going to have a hard time convincing a cop that a tanto design is a tool rather than a weapon.
The fit and finish is top class. I suspect that it is made by Moki (the shape of the "Y" in Spyderco, the absence of "Seki City" and the phillips head screws on the pocket clip). It has none of the Starmate issues, in fact the start of the cutting edge is really well finished. Countersunk pivot unlike the Caly, blade is perfectly centred, smooth action - I just cannot fault the execution of this.
Varxx, it is open back construction.
As to how it cuts and how it sharpens - dunno yet. I think it is going to need very slow strokes on a Sharpmaker or it will "jump" at the transition of the bevels. The factory grind looks pretty good (I don't have my loupe at the office). I'll play with it over the weekend and see how it cuts.
Since it was announced I've been excited about this guy. The sad thing is that after swapping the clip for a black one and playing with it at home a bit it is unlikely to come out into the wild too often while I live in Mauritius. The law is very vague and I am going to have a hard time convincing a cop that a tanto design is a tool rather than a weapon.
Just a few more observations after having the Double Bevel in my pocket for the weekend :
Cutting Stuff : Out the box it cut some of the mandatory copier paper. Not as clean as my own edges but acceptable out of the box. When I got home a scratched around in the yard for a few bits of wood and did the fuzz stick thing. Draw cuts (ie from the hollow grind to the flat grind) worked fine and no better or worse than expected. I do not feel the transition between the different grinds. Push cuts using the tanto point like a chisel worked really well with my left hand thumb pushing on the blade spine as well.
Food prep, as expected, not so good particularly trimming fat off raw meat. Fruit it slices fine in either push or draw cuts. It doesn't like cutting onions. It works but food prep wasn't what it was designed for.
I didn't have any Samurai armour to test the tanto against so I destroyed a few PET water bottles. No problems until you get to the injection mould point at the bottom where the plastic is noticeably thicker. Didn't like that but most folding knives don't.
I would have liked to break down a few cardboard boxes to see how it handled that particularly at the grind transition - I'm sure someone will give it a good run and scribble a note for us.
My normal cutting also doesn't include cutting car doors and some of the other things that the "hard use" junkies may want to do - apologies.
Normally I prefer a dedicated slicer because of the kind of lightweight cutting I do on a daily basis but the Double Bevel does hold it's own reasonably well. For something more heavy duty, I think this will work quite nicely if the tanto doesn't detract.
Sharpening : First off after the cutting of the fuzz sticks the hollow grind section wasn't cutting paper at all any more. I assume a wire edge rolled over? Mark up the entire straight edge and pull out the Sharpmaker - in the 40 degree slots it is only hitting the shoulders. The bevel on both of the grinds (shouldn't this be called a double grind rather than a double bevel?) was way steeper than 40 degrees so rather than try and cut away the shoulders with the Sharpmaker, the Edge Pro got pulled out.
I like being able to touch up all my knives on a Sharpmaker so the bevels got pushed back to a bit less than 40 inclusive. I didn't try and finesse this - just ran the stone across both grinds. With the wideish Edge Pro stones you don't feel the transition. The result a fairly good, consistent bevel that runs across both grinds. It is very evident that neither grind is very thin behind the edge but I guess this isn't designed to be a slicer (as the food prep showed).
The difference in thickness behind the edge of the grinds is evident - the bevel you can see on the photos is the 40 degree inclusive line - there isn't another micro bevel.
I didn't do the tanto point. I will probably freehand that when it needs doing.
Sharpening was what I expected from VG10 - not that time consuming and an edge that I am happy with. I saw no point in polishing the edge and stopped on the 600 grit. I expect the edge retention etc to be similar to all my other VG10 Spydercos.
Lock and detent : THIS is how a liner lock needs to work! Cut out in the opposite scale allows you to push the lock with your thumb rather than rely on friction on the pad of your thumb. You could do this all day and not have any discomfort. The lock isn't the slightest bit sticky. It's a perfectly executed example of a liner lock.
As the OP mentioned, the detent is a bit weak and I'd agree this is a tip down toy.
The opening action is smooth as oiled silk and the blade locks with a satisfying "thunk". No play that I can detect. Closed the blade is centre with no play.
Handle : Once again perfect execution. The liners and the G10 are flush (and with the naked eye, the G10 is thicker than the Starmate's G10). G10 texture is the same as the Starmate's (ie not too rough but feels like there is grip).
I often run a fine ceramic along the edges of liners just to take the sharp edge off - didn't need to here. The only downside to the handle fit and finish was me stripping a screw head when I swapped out the pocket clip for a black one (an interesting aside, the holes in the clip are slightly smaller than the G Sakai clips so I can't use the clip on a Delica using the screws off a Delica without reaming out the holes ever so slightly).
Overall : I'm very happy with this guy. As indicated above, it's not a blade that I will be able to carry in the street but I am really pleased I have it in my collection.
The size is a bit of an enigma. Folded it is smaller than a Delica but it has a blade (on paper) the same length as a PM2.
Size comparisons to a Cento 3, Delica, Terzoula Slipit, Mini A100 and an Insingo (without the Slipit in the top down) and against a PM2
[ATTACH]23342[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]23343[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]23344[/ATTACH]
All in all getting the Double Bevel makes me even more irritated that I didn't buy the C19 I saw when I was in Japan last year. Seeing that the tooling is done for this .... what are the chances of having a resized C15 or C19 blade dropped into this handle - that would sell better than the Double Bevel - let's face it, it may just be a bit wierd for the general knife user (unless they grew up with Cold Steel)
Cutting Stuff : Out the box it cut some of the mandatory copier paper. Not as clean as my own edges but acceptable out of the box. When I got home a scratched around in the yard for a few bits of wood and did the fuzz stick thing. Draw cuts (ie from the hollow grind to the flat grind) worked fine and no better or worse than expected. I do not feel the transition between the different grinds. Push cuts using the tanto point like a chisel worked really well with my left hand thumb pushing on the blade spine as well.
Food prep, as expected, not so good particularly trimming fat off raw meat. Fruit it slices fine in either push or draw cuts. It doesn't like cutting onions. It works but food prep wasn't what it was designed for.
I didn't have any Samurai armour to test the tanto against so I destroyed a few PET water bottles. No problems until you get to the injection mould point at the bottom where the plastic is noticeably thicker. Didn't like that but most folding knives don't.
I would have liked to break down a few cardboard boxes to see how it handled that particularly at the grind transition - I'm sure someone will give it a good run and scribble a note for us.
My normal cutting also doesn't include cutting car doors and some of the other things that the "hard use" junkies may want to do - apologies.
Normally I prefer a dedicated slicer because of the kind of lightweight cutting I do on a daily basis but the Double Bevel does hold it's own reasonably well. For something more heavy duty, I think this will work quite nicely if the tanto doesn't detract.
Sharpening : First off after the cutting of the fuzz sticks the hollow grind section wasn't cutting paper at all any more. I assume a wire edge rolled over? Mark up the entire straight edge and pull out the Sharpmaker - in the 40 degree slots it is only hitting the shoulders. The bevel on both of the grinds (shouldn't this be called a double grind rather than a double bevel?) was way steeper than 40 degrees so rather than try and cut away the shoulders with the Sharpmaker, the Edge Pro got pulled out.
I like being able to touch up all my knives on a Sharpmaker so the bevels got pushed back to a bit less than 40 inclusive. I didn't try and finesse this - just ran the stone across both grinds. With the wideish Edge Pro stones you don't feel the transition. The result a fairly good, consistent bevel that runs across both grinds. It is very evident that neither grind is very thin behind the edge but I guess this isn't designed to be a slicer (as the food prep showed).
The difference in thickness behind the edge of the grinds is evident - the bevel you can see on the photos is the 40 degree inclusive line - there isn't another micro bevel.
I didn't do the tanto point. I will probably freehand that when it needs doing.
Sharpening was what I expected from VG10 - not that time consuming and an edge that I am happy with. I saw no point in polishing the edge and stopped on the 600 grit. I expect the edge retention etc to be similar to all my other VG10 Spydercos.
Lock and detent : THIS is how a liner lock needs to work! Cut out in the opposite scale allows you to push the lock with your thumb rather than rely on friction on the pad of your thumb. You could do this all day and not have any discomfort. The lock isn't the slightest bit sticky. It's a perfectly executed example of a liner lock.
As the OP mentioned, the detent is a bit weak and I'd agree this is a tip down toy.
The opening action is smooth as oiled silk and the blade locks with a satisfying "thunk". No play that I can detect. Closed the blade is centre with no play.
Handle : Once again perfect execution. The liners and the G10 are flush (and with the naked eye, the G10 is thicker than the Starmate's G10). G10 texture is the same as the Starmate's (ie not too rough but feels like there is grip).
I often run a fine ceramic along the edges of liners just to take the sharp edge off - didn't need to here. The only downside to the handle fit and finish was me stripping a screw head when I swapped out the pocket clip for a black one (an interesting aside, the holes in the clip are slightly smaller than the G Sakai clips so I can't use the clip on a Delica using the screws off a Delica without reaming out the holes ever so slightly).
Overall : I'm very happy with this guy. As indicated above, it's not a blade that I will be able to carry in the street but I am really pleased I have it in my collection.
The size is a bit of an enigma. Folded it is smaller than a Delica but it has a blade (on paper) the same length as a PM2.
Size comparisons to a Cento 3, Delica, Terzoula Slipit, Mini A100 and an Insingo (without the Slipit in the top down) and against a PM2
[ATTACH]23342[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]23343[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]23344[/ATTACH]
All in all getting the Double Bevel makes me even more irritated that I didn't buy the C19 I saw when I was in Japan last year. Seeing that the tooling is done for this .... what are the chances of having a resized C15 or C19 blade dropped into this handle - that would sell better than the Double Bevel - let's face it, it may just be a bit wierd for the general knife user (unless they grew up with Cold Steel)
I guess I'll be "that guy", but I'm not very impressed. In fact this is the only Spyderco I have bought that wasn't better than I expected. It's a nice knife, but just feels cheap to me. I can't really put my finger on it, but it just doesn't seem up to the quality of my others. The detent is very weak. I have found that I can open mine with a quick flick of my wrist. And third, what the heck is the deal with a mix of Phillips head and torx head fasteners? The blade and scale fasteners are torx, the frame fasteners and the pocket clip fasteners are Phillips head. I have a feeling this knife is destined to just fade away before too long. For its price, it is way outclassed by the Gayle Bradley and the Sage series. Interestingly odd little knife, but way overpriced in my opinion.
Actually, I can see why Phillips head screws on the pocket clip might be preferable. A lot of folks who buy any particular knife probably aren't "knife knuts" or collectors with tool boxes full of small, specialized drivers. The only "maintenance" besides sharpening they're likely to attempt may be clip removal, and who'd want to buy a special tool just for that. Consider also the many instances you can easily find of folks on this forum talking about stripping heads and threads out; I'm guessing a Phillips replacement screw would be easier for most folks to find locally than a torx. Not, mind you, that I'll be doing any more knife tweaking after attempting to switch the blades on a standard Delica and an Emerson opener model and ending up with less than enough unruined parts for a single knife!
Anyway, I ordered a Double Bevel today, before I read all these posts, not that it would have affected my decision one way or the other. The more Spydercos I accumulate, the less picky about them I become.
Anyway, I ordered a Double Bevel today, before I read all these posts, not that it would have affected my decision one way or the other. The more Spydercos I accumulate, the less picky about them I become.
