Do Sharpmaker Rods Wear Out?

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joe58
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Do Sharpmaker Rods Wear Out?

#1

Post by joe58 »

Perhaps a silly question, but I've been using my Sharpmaker for many years now and it seems as though the medium rods aren't as effective as they used to be.

I've cleaned them very well with a green pad and Bar Keepers friend several times. When they're clean, they seem to have shiny places on them, like they are worn smooth.

Should I just go ahead and get new rods?

Thanks!

Joe
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Sully
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#2

Post by Sully »

Considering purchasing a Sharpmaker soon, myself. Know squat about properly sharpening knives. Hope to learn good habits from the getgo, and not buy a sharpening system I'll regret in a year. Is the Sharpmaker and it's DVD the place to start? Are the other finer rods something that should be purchased right away...or do you work up to those? Any guidance, much appreciated.
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LC Kid
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#3

Post by LC Kid »

Hi Mr joe58!


Of course they do.
:rolleyes: It's not something that you'll notice anytime soon after you got your SM, but it'll certainly happen, and how fast is it gonna wear will depend on how you use it, how frequent and what kind of steels you sharp with it.
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.357 mag
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#4

Post by .357 mag »

I don't think the abrasive wears out but the brown rods will dip over time.
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LC Kid
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#5

Post by LC Kid »

Hi Mr Sully!


The SM + it's DVD is definitely the place to start. You'll not regret getting yours, whatsoever.

I suppose you refer to the Ultra Fine Rods, and it'll depend on your sharpening habits and the way how you use your blades.

With the Grey (Medium) and the White (Fine) Rods included you have more than enough to get that amazing edge on most blades / steels, but if there is any reason for you to go even further you can get the UF Rods.

A common reason for many folks to get the UFs is just to get those eye candy polished edges.
Stay Sharp!
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paladin
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#6

Post by paladin »

I know the diamond rods can lose some of their diamond bits from out of the matrix, especially if you do a lot of reprofiling
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Blerv
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#7

Post by Blerv »

.357 mag wrote:I don't think the abrasive wears out but the brown rods will dip over time.
^-- This.

I understand the diamonds will mostly wear with hard pressure as it dislodges the diamonds. The white stones are non-wear.
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chuck_roxas45
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#8

Post by chuck_roxas45 »

My brown rods are pretty played out...
joe58
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#9

Post by joe58 »

Thanks guys - I went ahead and ordered another set of medium stones. My Fine & UF still look good. May explain why it seems I'm having trouble getting a knife sharpened as of late. I'm pretty sure after 20 years I know how to use the thing. Guess I can't complain after I thought about it and realized I've been using it for so long.
Bill1170
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#10

Post by Bill1170 »

I recall reading (I think it was on here) that the binder that holds the abrasive together is weaker on the brown rods than on the white ones.
Prof68
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#11

Post by Prof68 »

Maybe this is stating the obvious, but even though the ceramic rods don't wear out, they do fill up with steel particles, which reduces their effectiveness. In my experience, it eventually gets to the point where scrubbing them is of limited use (and kind of a pain). Other than getting a Japanese waterstone, a new set was probably the way to go.
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#12

Post by Cliff Stamp »

The rods and stones do not release fresh abrasive as do waterstones (in general) and thus while they don't wear out, they will wear very smooth and lose aggression over extended use and become much finer than they were initially. However they do not need to be discarded all that has to be done is grind the surface down to restore the abrasive. This can be done with a diamond plate but it takes a fair bit of skill to do this without damaging the plate. If you can get a coarse diamond no-name plate which can be bought here for $5 or less then that is a good choice otherwise diamond grit sandpaper can be used as well. Note that after refinishing them they will cut at a bit more coarse than they were initially (as they will cut with the lapping grit) but this quickly wears in as the scratches wear out and the stone will return to cutting at the grit level.
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#13

Post by kbuzbee »

If we had "Like" posts, I'd tag this one, Cliff. Excellent point. I've done thus myself and it works great.

Ken
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wrdwrght
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#14

Post by wrdwrght »

kbuzbee wrote:If we had "Like" posts, I'd tag this one, Cliff. Excellent point. I've done thus myself and it works great.

Ken
+1
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opusxpn
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#15

Post by opusxpn »

yep they do wear out, my mediums seem to be loosing their cutting ability, I did clean them really good and scratch them against each other and they improved a little but I might need to get new ones soon, my fines and ultras are still working very well.
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joe58
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#16

Post by joe58 »

Cliff Stamp wrote:The rods and stones do not release fresh abrasive as do waterstones (in general) and thus while they don't wear out, they will wear very smooth and lose aggression over extended use and become much finer than they were initially. However they do not need to be discarded all that has to be done is grind the surface down to restore the abrasive. This can be done with a diamond plate but it takes a fair bit of skill to do this without damaging the plate. If you can get a coarse diamond no-name plate which can be bought here for $5 or less then that is a good choice otherwise diamond grit sandpaper can be used as well. Note that after refinishing them they will cut at a bit more coarse than they were initially (as they will cut with the lapping grit) but this quickly wears in as the scratches wear out and the stone will return to cutting at the grit level.
Ah, good info Cliff. I'll have to give this a try to see what happens. That's a great idea and I've nothing to lose anyway if I mess them up. If you could Cliff, could you pm me a source for the plate you referenced? Thank you sir! Joe
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#17

Post by Prof68 »

Cliff Stamp wrote:The rods and stones do not release fresh abrasive as do waterstones (in general) and thus while they don't wear out, they will wear very smooth and lose aggression over extended use and become much finer than they were initially. However they do not need to be discarded all that has to be done is grind the surface down to restore the abrasive. This can be done with a diamond plate but it takes a fair bit of skill to do this without damaging the plate. If you can get a coarse diamond no-name plate which can be bought here for $5 or less then that is a good choice otherwise diamond grit sandpaper can be used as well. Note that after refinishing them they will cut at a bit more coarse than they were initially (as they will cut with the lapping grit) but this quickly wears in as the scratches wear out and the stone will return to cutting at the grit level.
That is indeed great info. (Seriously, I learn something from you guys every time I log on.) I do have to wonder if the time and energy involved in the process might be better spent just sharpening free hand, or learning how to, on non-ceramic stones. But if the Sharpmaker rods are going to be used, well hey, I'm all for refurbishing things rather than replacing them. Thanks for the tip!
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#18

Post by Mallus »

My brown rod have been wearing over the years but they still cut ok. Maybe I'll see if scratching their backs gently with diamonds will make them purr happier. The base is getting a little loose, perhaps it's showing wear after numerous times the rods have been stuck in / removed.

The fine stone are, true to their name, fine, except that they have had some nicks at the corners ever since they arrived and have been developing more of them sometimes hitting each other while being washed etc. I'm not using the corners to anything else than re-curves and serrated edges, so I'm not suffering too much. Still, if I could be certain to receive mint replacement without any nicks in the corners, I might order a replacement pair. My ultrafines are in perfect condition.
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#19

Post by phillipsted »

One trick to keep your brown rod from wearing too rapidly - use only light pressure on the blade. Sal says this in the instructional video, but "let the stone do the work". Too much pressure on the blade and you'll not only wear out the stone faster, but you'll stress the thin edge of the knife and get fracturing and burrs. Use a light touch.

TedP
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#20

Post by thombrogan »

joe58 wrote:Thanks guys - I went ahead and ordered another set of medium stones. My Fine & UF still look good. May explain why it seems I'm having trouble getting a knife sharpened as of late. I'm pretty sure after 20 years I know how to use the thing. Guess I can't complain after I thought about it and realized I've been using it for so long.
My coarsest diamond hone is mostly worn out after 7.5 years, so seeing that it took 20 years for your brown hones to need reconditioning or replacement and cost much less, they're quite a value.
Prof68 wrote:Maybe this is stating the obvious, but even though the ceramic rods don't wear out, they do fill up with steel particles, which reduces their effectiveness. In my experience, it eventually gets to the point where scrubbing them is of limited use (and kind of a pain). Other than getting a Japanese waterstone, a new set was probably the way to go.
I've used a 'rust eraser' for thorough cleaning (as recently as last week) and used to use generic versions of Mr. Clean magic sponges when the Sharpmaker was stored in the kitchen.

What I like about the Sharpmaker over waterstones (Japanese, Belgian, Finnish, Mexican or otherwise) is they don't require the fuss needed such as the nigh-religious dedication to keeping the stones flat. Not that I don't regret selling off my Shapton Glasstones....
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