Lionspy
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Blackhawk30
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- Posts: 71
- Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2012 5:12 pm
Lionspy
Is it still made?I've never seen one in the flesh.It would be nice to compare it to the Lionsteel SR-1.
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The Deacon
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- Posts: 25717
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: Upstate SC, USA
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Yes, it is still in production.
Paul
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
It is pretty sweet. The grind is really thick in the up swept part and it performs a lot better when thinned out a bit, the rest is ground a bit thinner. Fit and finish on mine is great.
There are other Spydercos that perform better for most tasks, but the LionSpy puts a silly grin on my face some times and gets carried quite a bit.
There are other Spydercos that perform better for most tasks, but the LionSpy puts a silly grin on my face some times and gets carried quite a bit.
Have one (and three SR-1s). Love the all. Biggest difference (aside from the Spydie hole, scales, and blade steel) is the fact that the lock-bar on the Lionspy is thicker than on the SR series. You will need to exert more thumb pressure to disengage the lock. I did a write up some time ago here. Start at this post then proceed down a few posts for specs and pics.
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Officer Gigglez
- Member
- Posts: 801
- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2013 5:22 pm
- Location: Originally out of Arizona, currently live in Missouri.
Thing is awesome looking, but that price has kept me away from even considering it.
Spyderco Knives (in order of obtainment):
-Tenacious, Combo edge
-Tasman Salt, PE
-Persistence Blue, PE
-Pacific Salt, Black, PE
-Delica 4, Emerson Grey
-DiAlex Junior
-Byrd SS Crossbill, PE
-Endura 4 Emerson Grey
-Byrd Meadowlark 2 FRN, PE
-Resilience
-Tenacious, Combo edge
-Tasman Salt, PE
-Persistence Blue, PE
-Pacific Salt, Black, PE
-Delica 4, Emerson Grey
-DiAlex Junior
-Byrd SS Crossbill, PE
-Endura 4 Emerson Grey
-Byrd Meadowlark 2 FRN, PE
-Resilience
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Strong-Dog
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- Posts: 703
- Joined: Sat Dec 14, 2013 7:49 pm
- Contact:
I have never handled one, but have heard that the SR-1 is for the most part of better fit-and-finish. Take that for what it's worth.
"For a second, I thought I was dead, but when I heard all the noise I knew they were cops. Only cops talk that way. If they had been wiseguys, I wouldn't have heard a thing. I would've been dead."
-Henry Hill
-Henry Hill
Hi guys, new to the forum! I saw this thread and since I just got my Lionspy today ( could not stop looking at it all day! ) thought somebody might help me with a question. If I put it on the Wicked Edge sharpener what angle would you recommend? I'm not entirely lazy and could find it through trial and error but thought that some of you guys can save me the agony and worry that I might ruin this lovely knife! As you van probably tell, I'm fresh and new to collecting and caring for these lovely tools.
All the best and thanks in advance!
All the best and thanks in advance!
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Strong-Dog
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By ruining it, do you mean scratching the blade with the stones? If you put it in the second notch down, I think you should be fine. Otherwise, you'll just have to sharpy up your edge, and find the right angle to apex both sides. I would recommend you leaving the angle rather obtuse, as in my eyes at least Elmax in a production knife cannot take an acute angle. But who knows, maybe Spyderco is exempt from these issues. Welcome to the forum by the way!mobius wrote:Hi guys, new to the forum! I saw this thread and since I just got my Lionspy today ( could not stop looking at it all day! ) thought somebody might help me with a question. If I put it on the Wicked Edge sharpener what angle would you recommend? I'm not entirely lazy and could find it through trial and error but thought that some of you guys can save me the agony and worry that I might ruin this lovely knife! As you van probably tell, I'm fresh and new to collecting and caring for these lovely tools.
All the best and thanks in advance!
"For a second, I thought I was dead, but when I heard all the noise I knew they were cops. Only cops talk that way. If they had been wiseguys, I wouldn't have heard a thing. I would've been dead."
-Henry Hill
-Henry Hill
Hi Strong-Dog thanks for the advice, since it's built for heavy duty I was going to keep the factory edge and not go any more acute than that. It's not going to be a slicer. My guess would be 40 inclusive, but was just wondering if anybody has measured it using Wicked Edge sharpener. Thanks for such a nice welcome!
Mine was 35-40 on the straight part and closer to 50 closer to the tip. The edge is convex and cuts pretty well. I've had no issues after thinning mine (it is still convex) and the front curved part works much better now with the thinner edge (still plenty tough imho)
Fit and finish on mine was pretty close to perfect (tip grind slightly off center was the only niggle)
Fit and finish on mine was pretty close to perfect (tip grind slightly off center was the only niggle)
Hi No Fair, that is super advice. I saw the picture of yours after you worked on it and it looks great. Mine is perfect, the wormanship is first class. I take it that you took 40 inclusive all across the whole cutting edge. What grit do you use to start with reprofiling? 800 maybe since it already has a sharp factory edge? So happy to be part of this forum. Very helpful!
I use a 1X30 belt sander and started at 400 and went up to 1200 grit. It has a ~40 inclusive micro bevel all the way (I touch up using the UF rods on the sharpmaker or a strop). Since the edge is convex it is hard to estimate the angle further up, but it is somewhere between 30 and 35 degrees. The bevel on mine is a lot wider than DRH's since I have a more gradual transition than what you get from using stones at a fixed angle.mobius wrote:Hi No Fair, that is super advice. I saw the picture of yours after you worked on it and it looks great. Mine is perfect, the wormanship is first class. I take it that you took 40 inclusive all across the whole cutting edge. What grit do you use to start with reprofiling? 800 maybe since it already has a sharp factory edge? So happy to be part of this forum. Very helpful!
DRH and NoFair thank you both for your advice! Obviously I don't have the heavy guns of DRH ( belt sander), experience or the guts to attempt profiling like that as I'm just embarking on this new adventure. DRH, what does DPS means ( sorry for ignorance ) something per side? Second set of figures I understand to be the position in the clamp. Thank you so much both for sharing your knowhow! Really appreciated! iPad running out of juice...
DRH thanks understood now. I was contemplating convexing the edge on my Spyderco Tuff but as you say patience and time needed, butbwhen you have family obligations, this is in short supply most weekends. We shall see. One more question if you don't mind and then I'll leave you alone, I promise. Given it's a sharp factory edge, if I go ahaid with 40 DPS as you have, which grit would you start the procedure with? 400 as No Fair suggested?