that could be waaaaaaaay worse. that should go away with a couple sharpenings.
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zinczinc wrote:I know I am kinda abuse my techno
But I have no tool for opening oysters
I thought techno might survive
Using knives as a prybar is never a good idea. It's surprising that the edge held up so well. On the other hand, the damage is quite minor and you should be able to sharpen out the damage.
I used my 154CM Manix 2 as an oyster knife with better luck but this isn't that bad. sometimes those quick sharp factory grinds can be a bit brittle by the edge. It will be better than ever once you sharpen past that, I think. It will just take time to get there.
I managed to drop my Techno onto concrete no less than two times, and on both occasions it landed tip first. It wasn't quite as bad as yours, but it wasn't pretty either. It's back to being somewhat pointy again at least.
A little extra sharpening should be able to fix that. If not, then send it back to Spyderco, and they'll get it looking good as new.
My concern isn't the level of damage, that'll sharpen out easily, but that it appears to have fractured with zero elongation at the break. If you contact spyderco CS, they might have something more to say on this subject. Typically you should see deformation first, fracture second. I wouldn't expect to see zero deformation on anything, only my REX121 knives fail like that.
Knives are the traditional tools for opening oysters. However oyster knives have higher edge angles and are made from very simple steels because they are being used in hard contacts.
The simplest way is to just forget about it and sharpen the knife and eventually the tip will reform. However if you use the tip a lot then you have to either :
-keep the blade shape and just grind the entire bevel back
-change the blade shape, increase the belly in the tip and focus the work there
-drop the tip down from the spine to minimize the effect of the second option
If you have not done it before just take a $1 kitchen knife, damage it in the same way and experiment with it first.
Some time with the 204D diamond rods in the Sharpmaker should get that back in order. Then proceed up to the finish you prefer. Just remember not to let what's left of the tip drag off the sides of the rods. So end each stroke with the tip still on the stones and I believe you will be able to complete the repair yourself. If you do not have time or interest in doing it yourself, you could send it to Spyderco for a factory evaluation and repair. If you send photos in advance to Warranty and Repair, they should be able to let you know if it will be $5 return shipping only or a regrind fee.
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