Ok so here are some comparison shots, first pic is pushed all the way to the left, second pic is all the way to the right. Look at the distance between the clip and the lock cutout for reference.
Well, I pulled off my Vallotton clip to try to swap it on, only to discover the holes are much smaller than your run o the mill holes, as the Vallotton uses thinner/longer screws. I tried to drill them out and it didn't work so well, so now I need a new Vallotton clip. I pulled off my favorite clip that I've had on all my Para 2's and my M4 Manix 2, and the play was even worse in that clip. However, I was able to slide it over to the center of the scale, and for some reason it seems to tighten down hard enough that it doesn't slide side to side. I also used the Manix 2 screws, which are a bit longer and bite more of the threads, allowing you to crank it down a little tighter. The newer Manix 2 clip screws are also the same size T8 torx bit as the rest of the liner screws, which is convenient.
If the screws are tight, and it appears they are, then you need to increase the friction between the clip and the scale.
One approach would be to remove the clip and make some deep longitudinal scratches in the metal where it rests on the scale, clamped by the screws. Another approach would be to trap some sharp mineral grit between the clip and the scale to give the interface some tooth.
Yet another approach is to put some adhesive there, ideally something removable with a solvent. G-10 is impervious to common solvents, so rubber cement (like Barge Cement), cyanoacrylate, or Stick and Seal would all work and yet be reversible with the correct solvent. If you do this it would be wise to lightly abrade the bearing surface of the clip and rinse it with acetone just before bonding to help the bond. The G-10 is already rough, so it just needs to be clean.
One more thing. The clip on my Para 2 got loose a few months ago but retightening the screws with some Loctite on the threads solved my problem.
i also have the same issue with the Byrd Cara Cara 2 FRN. there is wiggle and my guess is the holes on the clip must be slightly larger than the diameter of the screws. a TINY bit of disappointment but a little loctite and problem is solved and still an awesome knife for $20. but i do understand how this issue would be more relevant and more disappointing on a higher end Spyderco.
I hav eyet to see this on any of my Spydies, but I have on other brands like Gerber and Kershaw.
Spyderco Knives (in order of obtainment):
-Tenacious, Combo edge
-Tasman Salt, PE
-Persistence Blue, PE
-Pacific Salt, Black, PE
-Delica 4, Emerson Grey
-DiAlex Junior
-Byrd SS Crossbill, PE
-Endura 4 Emerson Grey
-Byrd Meadowlark 2 FRN, PE
-Resilience
All three Byrds I purchased last year, the carried for a week Native 5 that was traded to me, and the Para 2 that I bought late last year have or had clip play. The N5 is currently wearing clip screws from a Benchmade until Eric Glesser gets back to with a solution. The Para 2 was so bad that a screw had fallen out of the handle before the box was even opened. Spyderco customer service treated me like crap before finally agreeing to send me a call tag to fix a knife that they shipped out with a problem. It's fixed now, but it was a horrible experience. The Byrds aren't worth sending in and paying return shipping on, so they've become project knives. Spyderco needs to both do a better job tapping liners and use better quality clip screws based on my experience. Their wire clips have been great though.
I'm getting to the thread late, but I've gotta say I'm kind of stupefied. My Yo2 clip has always been steady as a rock and points down the middle of the handle. It's hard to imagine what could be making yours different other than bigger screw holes in the clip or something about the screw heads that keeps them from snugging down into the holes. None of the clips on any of my spydies wiggle. I'm assuming yours has always been more or less this way and that it's not a wear issue, because I know you've carried yours way more than I have mine. I could post a pic of mine, but comparing mine to your picture, the screws look the same.
K-390 on hand: Mule Team 17, Police 4 G-10, Endela (burlap micarta), Endela backup, Endura (canvas micarta), Straight Stretch (now blade-swapped with G-10 Stretch), Delica Wharncliffe, Dragonfly Wharncliffe, & Dragonfly Wharncliffe shorty mod Note to self: Less is more.
Turns out this issue was my own fault mostly. By design there is enough slop in the clip holes to allow it to slide side to side as my pics have shown of the screws are loose and/or if the mounting pad of the clip isn't laying flush on the handle, which is what happened to me. I had bent the clip to make it clip tighter, and bent it too much and in the wrong spot causing the mounting pad to not sit flat on the scale. This meant that no matter now tight the screw was there was hardly any contact area underneath which allowed it to slide side to side. I only realized this after looking very close at the clip from the side and noticed light underneath the mounting pad.
This is good information to have. At least once, when I had on pants with a thick hem along the pocket top, I've done the opposite -- loosened the clip a bit by impatiently just pulling it open. I'm lucky that I didn't damage the screws, mounting pad, or maybe even hole threads. So, if I ever tighten or loosen a clip again, I'll take it off and make sure I grip it well away from the mounting pad.
K-390 on hand: Mule Team 17, Police 4 G-10, Endela (burlap micarta), Endela backup, Endura (canvas micarta), Straight Stretch (now blade-swapped with G-10 Stretch), Delica Wharncliffe, Dragonfly Wharncliffe, & Dragonfly Wharncliffe shorty mod Note to self: Less is more.