Issue with Sage 1 thumb flicking action?

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Unbrokenchain33
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Issue with Sage 1 thumb flicking action?

#1

Post by Unbrokenchain33 »

So I have had my Sage 1 for about a year. The only things it has cut is a few pieces of paper and envelopes. It used to fly open with my thumb flick. I just recently noticed while trying to flick it open that I am consistently only flipping it open about half way. I rinsed the whole knife with warm water and a little soap and applied a couple drops of Tuf Glide to either side of the pivot. As of now, opening and closing the blade feels smoother, but still can't consistently thumb flick the blade open without wrist action.

Should I wait overnight to see if Tuf Glide worked any magic? Is here any other DIY remedy that I can do without taking the knife apart? Maybe I'm not flicking with my thumb properly and I am overthinking this? Could it have arisen from me dropping it while it was closed one time on concrete from a foot off the ground? Is this something that any of you have experienced?

I guess last option would be to send it to Spyderco, but I'm not even sure that would work because there's not really anything wrong with the knife. I am just frustrated right now and want to flick this bad boy open!

Thanks in advance for your help.. and yes, I know. I shouldn't be flicking open my beautiful Spyderco's in the first place. A lot of people say that a knife doesn't really need to be lubed up, so what gives?
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Donut
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#2

Post by Donut »

Is Tufglide a real lube? I would try some oil on the pivot first.
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Blerv
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#3

Post by Blerv »

You can try a little graphite on the detent ball-bearing. Take a pencil and transfer some to the blade where it contacts the bb.

I just have heard that works. No tangible experience.
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Evil D
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#4

Post by Evil D »

My experience is that Tuf Glide isn't a very good lubricant, at least compared to other alternatives. Likely not as good as what they use at the factory.
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Unbrokenchain33
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#5

Post by Unbrokenchain33 »

would laxative mineral oil work better, or is it necessary for me to buy nano oil?
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Spydesense
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#6

Post by Spydesense »

Maybe the pivot screw needs to be loosened a bit.
My :spyder:'s>> Fluited Titanium Millie, M390 Millie, Brad Southard, Gayle Bradley, Junior, Bushcraft UK, Translucent Blue Manix 2, G10 UKPK, Sage 1, Sage 2, Ti Damascus Delica 4, Orange FFG Endura 4, Gray FFG Endura 4,Native, Blk Dragonfly, H1 Dragonfly 2, Blue Tenacious, Tenacious, H1 Ladybug, White Ladybug, Grasshopper, Honeybee and Bug
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Pockets
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#7

Post by Pockets »

I don't have oil on mine, and it won't flick open all the way either. However, a small snap of the wrist at the right time will allow it to open all the way.
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Evil D
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#8

Post by Evil D »

Spydesense wrote:Maybe the pivot screw needs to be loosened a bit.
If he's had it for a year and it used to flip open easy, the pivot wouldn't have tightened itself so unless he tightened it there's no sense in loosening it. That'll just make blade play. Lubrication is the answer as long as the pivot is clean and free of pocket lint and such.

Mineral oil is an OK oil but it's a heavy weight and that alone can slow a blade down. You want a lightweight oil like Triflo which you can buy at Walmart in the bike section for pretty cheap. It's not food safe but you'll be fine as long as you just lube the pivot.
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Unbrokenchain33
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#9

Post by Unbrokenchain33 »

Evil D wrote:Mineral oil is an OK oil but it's a heavy weight and that alone can slow a blade down. You want a lightweight oil like Triflo which you can buy at Walmart in the bike section for pretty cheap. It's not food safe but you'll be fine as long as you just lube the pivot.
so I will use compressed air, rinse with warm water and soap, then apply some Triflo. thanks for your help!
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einstein2001
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#10

Post by einstein2001 »

Flick harder. :p
I'd like to add that I can now consistently middle finger flick my Southard, which makes me very happy. :D
[table="width: 1100, align: left"]
[tr]
[td][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/td]
[td]Cruwear Military, CTS-204P Para 2, K390 Mule
Southard, Techno, Sage 2, Gayle Bradley
Super Blue Caly 3, Caly 3.5, Endura and G10 Ladybug
ZDP-189 G10 Dragonfly, ZDP-189 Nishijin Dragonfly
[HR][/HR]:spyder::spyder::spyder::spyder::spyder::spyder::spyder::spyder:
-Brandon

[/td]

[/tr]
[/table]
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Evil D
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#11

Post by Evil D »

The angle you flick in makes a big difference. Aim your finger towards the pivot as much as you can.
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Fred Sanford
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#12

Post by Fred Sanford »

Tuf-Glide is more of a corrosion inhibitor than a lubricant. I will often treat a knife with Tuf-Glide and then let it sit for a day before I lube the pivot with real oil. Either standard 30 weight or just mineral oil or 3 in one. No need to over complicate with oil.
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#13

Post by Michael Janich »

Check to see if any lint or dirt built up under the lock--between the lock bar and the inside of the scale. When dirt builds up here, it can increase the pressure on the lock spring, pushing the detent ball harder into the blade and causing it to drag as the blade pivots.

A drop of oil (or even better, a dab of grease) on the detent ball also helps smooth its travel on the side of the blade.

To see if the issue is with the pivot action of the blade and not the lock, try this test: Use two hands to work the blade back and forth from nearly open to nearly closed and feel the drag of the detent ball on the blade. Then, carefully do the same thing while applying pressure to the lock release to push it against the scale (taking the pressure off the detent ball). If the action of the blade is sticky when there is no pressure from the detent, the pivot needs to be cleaned and lubed better.

I hope this helps.

Stay safe,

Mike
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jackknifeh
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#14

Post by jackknifeh »

Tuf-Glide is advertised if I remember correctly as a lube which also acts as a corrosion preventative. When I first got some I used it as both and was dissatisfied with it as a lube. The corrosion prevention has been top notch. For lubrication I now use nano-oil which is great. But, I don't think lubrication is the main issue. Definately use something other than Tuf-Glide though.

I've had a few knives that have been easy and harder to "flick" open. First of all this is only good for show. Just opening the blade with the pad of my thumb is my favorite. Even with an easilly flickable knife there is still the possibility of "missing" and slicing the pad of my thumb open to the bone. I have never cut myself but I have come close. I'm rambling (again). Back to my reason for posting. The way I can flick open even harder to flick open knives is by sticking the tip/end of my thumb into the hole. Then I apply pressure from inside the hole toward the pivot pin. Of course this won't open the blade but I'm creating force inside the hole. Then I gradually change the direction of the force away from the pivot pin until the force will open the blade. With the force I have been applying when the direction is adequate the force FLICKS the blade open with a SPRING effect. I can do this VERY VERY fast even though it seems like I take my time when explaining it. The applied pressure builds and then when the direction is such that it opens the blade the pressure SPRINGS to motion slamming the blade open and locked and my thumb travels up and away from the super-duper, razor sharp edge. Just in case anyone has not tried flicking their blade open EXACTLY as I tried to describe it I suggest you try it several times until you get the hang of it. This method is 99% fool proof. I love this method so much I suggest you ask me questions if it doesn't become easy. Even the slightly stiff pivots snap open after the feeling is established. This is not the only way but it's the way I do it when I want to FREAK OUT a non-knife person. :D

Jack
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gull wing
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#15

Post by gull wing »

:D Mabee your Sage doesn't want to be flicked anymore.
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