What kind of oil do you use?

[Tabo]

Mineral Oil- since I use my blades a lot for food prep

[Kihlo7]

Froglube and Slip2000

[ZL1]

Blue Lube on pivot
tuff cloth on blades if I remember

[Clip]

I really need to break down and get some of that Nano Oil.

Currently I use Tuf Glide on the blades and pivots, haven't seen any problems with the lube collecting dust or gumming up, etc. I'll usually put a drop on the pivot and work it in well, then wipe the excess off.

[.357 mag]

None..

[GoodEyeSniper]

I use nothing on the blades for corrosion resistance as it is futile if you actually use your knives to cut things.

I might use a drip or two of tri flow to clean out a pivot, but my pivots probably average oiling once a year if that. pretty unnecessary on most folders.

[xceptnl]

I have used militec, remoil, and sentry solutions. Currently I use either Hoppes (similar to remoil) or mineral oil. I want to try Frog Lube but haven't had time to invest yet.

[Bladekeeper]

I use nothing on the blades for corrosion resistance as it is futile if you actually use your knives to cut things.

I might use a drip or two of tri flow to clean out a pivot, but my pivots probably average oiling once a year if that. pretty unnecessary on most folders.

I'd like to live in an environment where I didn't have to use any .
But for my users apart from a clean I don't use oil either .
However consider this , I have a collection now 35 of those blades were in a codura padded bag .
Inside a wardrobe in sheaths kydex/leather, the place I live is close to the sea and between mountains.
Last year and the beginning of this year it was -2 from 8pm-7am for 3 months in the house :O .
Out of those knives 3 started to rust 2 8cr13mov from a company , the other Aus 8 .
The spydercos that were 8cr13mov did not rust at all not did the carbon blades I have .
So I have no choice as they are collection pieces , what would cause one knife in the same steel to rust whilst another hasn't ?.
HT ? but at that time I used nothing so I won't make the same mistake again and all but 1 were in Kydex .
Out of those 3 , 2 were bead blasted so maybe that had something to do with it .
Also there is a paper you can get I can't recall what it is , but when the cabinet is finished for them to be displayed .
I shall be using some even though its air tight I'm OCD with my collection .
I've even had a spot or two on cpm s30V , so I'm ultra paranoid the only SS I have I'd risk not using anything is RWL-34.

[phillipsted]

Pam Butter spray. works wonders, and doesnt leave your knife smelling like oil.

Seriously?

Ingredients: Canola Oil (Adds a Trivial Amount of Fat), Lecithin from Soybeans, Natural Flavor, Phosphated Mono- and Diglycerides, Dimethyl Silicone (for Anti-Foaming), Annatto (Color), Propellant.

[RadioactiveSpyder]

Tuf-Glide/cloth for corrosion resistance on the liners and hard to reach places, and Nano Oil 5W for the pivot.

+1, right on the money! Both are great products, highly recommended.

[Jax]

Has anyone had any experience using graphite powder in the pivot area?
Like the stuff they use on sticking door looks?
Is it even safe to use it,if your knife see's food prep work?
I ask because oil + the insides of my pockets can = gritty gunky mess.
When I do use oil,it is household 2 in 1 multi purpose oil,or sometimes use olive/veg oil.

[thurin]

Mineral Oil for everything.

[MatthewSB]

Break Free CLP.

I use this, because it seems to dry off (without attracting dust and crud) but the knife still opens smoothly.

I really don't think the type of lube matters too much. The only thing I've found that I don't like is RemOil, it seemed to make the action sticky.

[nullity]

I have tried Mobil 1 75w synthetic gear oil, RemOil, white lithium grease, and Finish Line Extreme Fluoro grease (DuPont Krytox).
I totally break-down the knife and thoroughly clean it with dish soap and alcohol between tests.

The Extreme Fluoro had the best static friction, by far.
All of the lubricants had good dynamic friction (in motion), but they had trouble getting moving after a stop.
With the Extreme Fluoro, I could push the blade super slow and it displayed much less "stop-and-go".

I know nothing about using oil as a corrosion inhibitor.
I want to try Nano Oil. It has a snazzy applicator. :)

[akaAK]

Mineral oil, sparingly, when needed. I will use EDC for food prep when required and this is about the cheapest product you can get. I am not particularily OCD about it but will wipe down a blade before putting away. I also throw desicant packs into boxes when putting knives away for any length of time.

Seems to have worked for my purposes.

[mikerestivo]

Has anyone had any experience using graphite powder in the pivot area?
Like the stuff they use on sticking door looks?
Is it even safe to use it,if your knife see's food prep work?
I ask because oil + the insides of my pockets can = gritty gunky mess.
When I do use oil,it is household 2 in 1 multi purpose oil,or sometimes use olive/veg oil.

I have used graphite powder for other applications and I have found it to be as messy as oil, unfortunately. Maybe there are others here that have had better luck with it that could comment.

[JudasD]

FrogLube all day long baby! Am a total convert, pricey but food safe, works great and c'mon... it's called FrogLube!
Worth the cost alone for the time a friend picked it up when it was left out and said "WTF have you got this for? You don't even have any frogs!" :-P

Do you heat your knife up first before applying the frog lube? I use it on my guns, but never thought to put it on a knife since there is no heat cycling like on a firearm.

JD

[Per-Sev]

I use Tri-Flow, I have had the same bottle for about 10 years and just apply a very small amount once in a while. I don't like to oil it much because with bronze washers it really does not need much oil and I don't want to attract pocket lint. When I feel the action getting slow I just apply a small drop using a oil needle from when I had air guns to both sides and a little in the detent then I allow it to soak in and use some tissue paper to soak up the reaming oil from around the pivot. I also clean it thoroughly before applying oil so no dirt gets mixed with the oil.

[DJFrostbyte]

I use Rand CLP. it is a non-toxic vegetable based nano lubricant that is biodegradable, safe for food prep and works amazing on guns and knives. It is just thick enough to do the job but not too think to cause a mess. I love it and it has replaced the use of Rem-oil for me.

[Bladekeeper]

If I use any oil at all which I don't except on carry knives I just use plain old 3 in one oil. I have a fairly extensive collection of Case knives and I learned after fifty something years of experience that oil is the absolute worst thing you can do to this type of knife with the brass liners. If you put even one drop of oil on any of the classic slip joint knives with Bone, Stag or celluloid handles you are ruining the knife. I know all of you have seen slip joint knives that have small rusty spots along the liners about midway of the back and inside of the knife. This is caused by as little as one single drop of oil working its way along the backspring down the full length of the knife as open and close the blade. Oil will also soak into bone and stag discoloring it or turning that stag dark. I realize this conversation pertains more to Spyderco knives but some of you may have some bone or stag handled knives as well. The same way I care for my collectible Case knives carries over to my collectible Spyderco's as well. If it's going to reside in my safe it never sees a drop of oil only Ren wax on the Case's and nothing on the Spyderco's. Trust me oil is the absolute worst thing you can possibly do to knives in long term storage. Never oil any knife other than the one you carry and use every day.

Just looking at my products and recalled this post , Sentry oil , Tuff glide and Sentry cloth.
All the same products are oil free I didn't realise so no I don't use oil :D .