What kind of oil do you use?
What kind of oil do you use?
For your pivots and what not?
I was watching an old video from youtube reviewer. He said he took a Paramilitary 1, removed the stock oil and used "High speed turbine oil", which he preferred.
It got me wondering, what kind of high performance oil should I be using?
I have a type of oil that I use based on comparing a few different types.
Give me some ideas and hopefully you have a reason why you're using it!
I was watching an old video from youtube reviewer. He said he took a Paramilitary 1, removed the stock oil and used "High speed turbine oil", which he preferred.
It got me wondering, what kind of high performance oil should I be using?
I have a type of oil that I use based on comparing a few different types.
Give me some ideas and hopefully you have a reason why you're using it!
-Brian
A distinguished lurker.
Waiting on a Squeak and Pingo with a Split Spring!
A distinguished lurker.
Waiting on a Squeak and Pingo with a Split Spring!
- senorsquare
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I've used bicycle dry lube only because it was in the shop at the time and it works well enough for me.
There was a pretty big thread recently that had a lengthy discussion on nano-oil and other lubricants - http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthre ... t=nano+oil
There was a pretty big thread recently that had a lengthy discussion on nano-oil and other lubricants - http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthre ... t=nano+oil
- phillipsted
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- jackknifeh
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I use Tuf-Glide/cloth for corrosion control because it "bonds" with the metal at a molecular level according to the advertising. Wipe off ALL excess and it leaves the metal dry and dust won't stick to it. There is still a protective barrier fighting corrosion. It also makes a fairly decent lubricant so it will cover both aspects of corrosion control and lubrication for a smoother movement.
For a lubricant however I use Nano-oil because it is MUCH better. The pivot gets smoother as soon as the oil is worked into the entire pivot. One huge claim about Nano-oil is that it performs better when the pressure between the metal parts is increased. I'm speaking of pressure you have in heavy machinery and such, not a pivot on a pocket knife. But the pressure in a pivot is importand for it to perform properly. I have experienced this and it is why I choose Nano-oil. On many knives there is a sweet spot where pivot tension is tight enough to eliminate blade play but still loose enough for the blade to move VERY easily. Since the Nano-oil performs better when the pressure is greater I can tighten the pivot tighter and still have a very smooth, very easy opening/closing knife. In some cases a knife with the pivot loose enough to make it easy to open also allows blade play. If you tighten the pivot screws to eliminate blade play the blade is very hard to open in some cases. So having an oil that allows the blade to open easily AND have no blade play because the screws can be tightened more is a great thing to me. That's why I use Nano-oil for the lubrication.
Another benefit of Nano-oil is it comes in 3 viscosities. 5, 10 and 85 weight. The 5w is very thin and soaks into corrosion on rusted bolts EXTREMELY fast. I have broken free rusted bolts in a matter of 10 seconds or so that wouldn't turn after soaking in other products for a couple of hours. The 10w is good for knives, pliers and other tools and such. The 85w is more like a grease in consistancy I think. It is very thick. I have never used the 85w. So you have 3 weights to choose from or you can mix them to create an oil of the thickness you prefer.
Jack
For a lubricant however I use Nano-oil because it is MUCH better. The pivot gets smoother as soon as the oil is worked into the entire pivot. One huge claim about Nano-oil is that it performs better when the pressure between the metal parts is increased. I'm speaking of pressure you have in heavy machinery and such, not a pivot on a pocket knife. But the pressure in a pivot is importand for it to perform properly. I have experienced this and it is why I choose Nano-oil. On many knives there is a sweet spot where pivot tension is tight enough to eliminate blade play but still loose enough for the blade to move VERY easily. Since the Nano-oil performs better when the pressure is greater I can tighten the pivot tighter and still have a very smooth, very easy opening/closing knife. In some cases a knife with the pivot loose enough to make it easy to open also allows blade play. If you tighten the pivot screws to eliminate blade play the blade is very hard to open in some cases. So having an oil that allows the blade to open easily AND have no blade play because the screws can be tightened more is a great thing to me. That's why I use Nano-oil for the lubrication.
Another benefit of Nano-oil is it comes in 3 viscosities. 5, 10 and 85 weight. The 5w is very thin and soaks into corrosion on rusted bolts EXTREMELY fast. I have broken free rusted bolts in a matter of 10 seconds or so that wouldn't turn after soaking in other products for a couple of hours. The 10w is good for knives, pliers and other tools and such. The 85w is more like a grease in consistancy I think. It is very thick. I have never used the 85w. So you have 3 weights to choose from or you can mix them to create an oil of the thickness you prefer.
Jack
- mikerestivo
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If I use any oil at all which I don't except on carry knives I just use plain old 3 in one oil. I have a fairly extensive collection of Case knives and I learned after fifty something years of experience that oil is the absolute worst thing you can do to this type of knife with the brass liners. If you put even one drop of oil on any of the classic slip joint knives with Bone, Stag or celluloid handles you are ruining the knife. I know all of you have seen slip joint knives that have small rusty spots along the liners about midway of the back and inside of the knife. This is caused by as little as one single drop of oil working its way along the backspring down the full length of the knife as open and close the blade. Oil will also soak into bone and stag discoloring it or turning that stag dark. I realize this conversation pertains more to Spyderco knives but some of you may have some bone or stag handled knives as well. The same way I care for my collectible Case knives carries over to my collectible Spyderco's as well. If it's going to reside in my safe it never sees a drop of oil only Ren wax on the Case's and nothing on the Spyderco's. Trust me oil is the absolute worst thing you can possibly do to knives in long term storage. Never oil any knife other than the one you carry and use every day.
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I use a Sentry oil pen applicator for pivots and hard to reach areas.
The needle like end fits directly into the holes , and the other areas .
Then I either use Sentry oil marine or the Marine cloth too , I have Ren wax but it doesn't repel water/moisture and I tend to use that for wooden scales plus leather .
The needle like end fits directly into the holes , and the other areas .
Then I either use Sentry oil marine or the Marine cloth too , I have Ren wax but it doesn't repel water/moisture and I tend to use that for wooden scales plus leather .