Lionspy question
Lionspy question
Hi guys,
I am looking to buy a super beefy Spyder co, and have the sights set on the lionspy.... Regardless I will buy this knife for its beauty. After doing some research, someone said something that "itched" me a bit. They were comparing a ZT0300 to the lionsteel, where most opted for lionsteel due to its asthetics, but some where giving the 0300 the thumbs up for the nice strong phosphur bronze washers. (I researched and found out the lionspy also being nylon)
How important do you think this is? if it was overbuilt,why not go the bronze washer route? Im thinking it is ok however, reason being if the nylon washers are 'tight' between two surfaces, it will probably withstand pressures one can exert before breaking something else like the blade or pivot system. But can the washers squash out of place, or deform to an extent?
I apolosize if this is questioning seems naive.
Next question, would replacing them with bronze be any better? or a waste of time......
I am looking to buy a super beefy Spyder co, and have the sights set on the lionspy.... Regardless I will buy this knife for its beauty. After doing some research, someone said something that "itched" me a bit. They were comparing a ZT0300 to the lionsteel, where most opted for lionsteel due to its asthetics, but some where giving the 0300 the thumbs up for the nice strong phosphur bronze washers. (I researched and found out the lionspy also being nylon)
How important do you think this is? if it was overbuilt,why not go the bronze washer route? Im thinking it is ok however, reason being if the nylon washers are 'tight' between two surfaces, it will probably withstand pressures one can exert before breaking something else like the blade or pivot system. But can the washers squash out of place, or deform to an extent?
I apolosize if this is questioning seems naive.
Next question, would replacing them with bronze be any better? or a waste of time......
Look at the Manix2 XL or a Chinook too.
Nylon washers do fine in that application. Replacing them would void your warranty. This will be an issue as it sounds like you plan to abuse this knife. In this case, a good warranty will serve you better than two bronze washers.
Nylon washers do fine in that application. Replacing them would void your warranty. This will be an issue as it sounds like you plan to abuse this knife. In this case, a good warranty will serve you better than two bronze washers.
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Manix2, Elmax MT13, M4 Manix2, ZDP Caly Jr, SB Caly3.5, Cruwear MT12, XHP MT16, South Fork, SB Caly3, 20CP Para2, Military Left Hand, Perrin PPT, Squeak, Manix 83mm, Swick3, Lil' Temperance, VG10 Jester, Dfly2 Salt, Tasman Salt
Chris
Manix2, Elmax MT13, M4 Manix2, ZDP Caly Jr, SB Caly3.5, Cruwear MT12, XHP MT16, South Fork, SB Caly3, 20CP Para2, Military Left Hand, Perrin PPT, Squeak, Manix 83mm, Swick3, Lil' Temperance, VG10 Jester, Dfly2 Salt, Tasman Salt
Chris
I think the washer thing is overplayed. Aftermarket suspension companies use nylon/polyurethane bushings in replacement of rubber and they essentially will last a lifetime with no degradation of tolerances. Motor mounts, swaybar end-links, etc.
Buy the model you like and trust that the company (assuming you trust them) made the best decision with the parameters required. If a pinned, liner-less FRN Delica can last 20 years being beat to the ends of the earth I can't honestly imagine a Lionspy doing much worse.
Buy the model you like and trust that the company (assuming you trust them) made the best decision with the parameters required. If a pinned, liner-less FRN Delica can last 20 years being beat to the ends of the earth I can't honestly imagine a Lionspy doing much worse.
I own a chinook 1 since around 2001, i used (and somewhat abused) it extensively during roughly 5 years without any problems and it has the old style thin brown plastic washers...
I also own a ss atr and it uses thicker white plastic washers which i believe is teflon, they held up fine aswell.
I never handled a lionspy but i wouldnt be concerned about the washers not being phosphorus bronze.
I also own a ss atr and it uses thicker white plastic washers which i believe is teflon, they held up fine aswell.
I never handled a lionspy but i wouldnt be concerned about the washers not being phosphorus bronze.
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.I thought for a long time that I wanted a ZT 301 but held off because of the weight and glad I did because the thing is entirely too heavy and overpriced. The thing weighs 8 ounces ( 1/2 pound) and is too wide on the butt end and that along with the serrations make it very uncomfortable going in and out of your pocket.I looked at the Lionspy at the Blade Show and reached the same conclusion on it also entirely too wide, heavy and expensive. Just thought you should know exactly what to expect because neither of these are EDC knives by any means.
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If forced to choose between the Lionspy and the ZT 300 series I would pick the Lionspy although I still think both are way too big. It's just that I'm not a fan of assisted openers either. I hate the constant spring tension on the blade when you're trying to close it and I like being in complete control of the blade at all times. And all this is after I thought at one time I couldn't live without a ZT 300/301 knife. That's why it's important to see a knife and get your hands on it before buying and also ask the dealer if he minds you putting the knife in your pocket and then run your hand in and out a few times.
Out of all my knifes in my collection, it has moved to my TOP favourite knife, sitting tied currently with Umnumzaan. On Tuesday im getting the SOUTHARD (ohmygosh!)
Endgame hit the nail on the head. A BEAUTIFULL TANK. . . . so impressed. . . . . Engineering to the MAXIMUM. . .
*edited- will leave the criticism out on zt, doubt people would of believed either*
Endgame hit the nail on the head. A BEAUTIFULL TANK. . . . so impressed. . . . . Engineering to the MAXIMUM. . .
*edited- will leave the criticism out on zt, doubt people would of believed either*
Oh yes.. and a little opinion regarding titanium military... I see a lot of people criticising the titanium military as it's heavy, slippy and expensive... and they say it's built to the same strength as g-10. I think that's poppy cock... people say the lock is as strong as the thinnest part of the lock... and the end of the frame lock where the recess is, it's very thin. .. I agreed with that comment until looking at how broad that area is. .. They have extended that recess to more then half the depth of the knife???? So what am I missing here.. . Although it's thin(still thicker then liner lock), it extends over a very large area compared to the g-10 models little piece of paper.. . Please enlighten me.
I think a wide blade makes sense on a hard use folder because it allows for a lot more utility batonning on the spine. Not saying you should plan to baton any folder, but it's nice to know that you have the option in a SHTF situation, and if you do have to baton a folder, it should always be on the spine rather than the tip.RanCoWeAla wrote:I looked at the Lionspy at the Blade Show and reached the same conclusion on it also entirely too wide,
Are you confusing blade thickness from edge-to-spine width? I don't think a blade needs to be wide to withstand batonning...my Wildsteer is only 1 1/8 inches wide at the widest part of the blade, but it's also 3/16 thick for almost the entire length of the spine until the tip where there's a swedge. You would have to use something like a hammer to damage the spine of this blade.Brummie wrote:I think a wide blade makes sense on a hard use folder because it allows for a lot more utility batonning on the spine. Not saying you should plan to baton any folder, but it's nice to know that you have the option in a SHTF situation, and if you do have to baton a folder, it should always be on the spine rather than the tip.
~David